country

tried to advance pump timing today ,but couldn't get pump to move . loosened all 3 nuts and the bolt in the plate on rear of pump , i couldn't get it to budge, is there a trick to moving the pump?

Bushy

Yes there is...... brute force.... I'm not kidding...

Even with the nuts/bolt loosened off the pump is still being held by the injector lines, supply line and boost tube.
You need to have someone lean over the passenger fender and pull upward while you push up... OR you need to apply a little physics... use a block of wood and a cheater bar... that worked for me...
I guess you could always loosen the lines/tubes etc and go that route... I just don't like to try loosening all those lines without the proper tools...a real PITA to be sure...
No matter how you accomplish it, you'll have to be quick on the draw with the 13mm wrench so you can tighten a nut up before it falls back....

Pastor bob...

dodgeman01

Well how far do you move it? and is there only 3 bolts??? I need to do my 93 8)
DM01

Bushy

There are 3 nuts (13mm) and 1 bolt (10mm).
The 3 nuts are a bit obvious, they are all located at the front of the pump... one is centered on the pump drivers fender side, one is at the top and back toward the engine block and the last one is at the bottom, again, part way around toward the engine block. These are all 13mm nuts.
The 10mm bolt is at the back of the pump, just below the injection lines. It faces back toward the firewall and anchors the pump to a mounting bracket at the back. Just feel around under there and you'll find it.

Look at the front end of the pump were it meets the gear case, roughly in line with the center nut. You should see a faint indented line on the pump flange. Opposite to that on the gear case is another line... also fairly faint on some trucks.
These lines usually match up dead on. This is the index mark for the pump. If you loosen off the 3 nuts, and 1 bolt, then rotate the pump top toward the engine that is advancing the pump timing.
It is common to use the down and dirty 1/8" rule. This will get you in the ballpark for about 15* advance or roughly 1.5mm lift
What you want to do is rotate the pump up until the bottom of the pump flange line is 1/8" above the top of the gear case line.
You should be fairly safe at that setting.
What does that get you????
Well:
>smoother idle
>better throttle response
>improvement in overall HP
>slightly less low end torque
>less smoke across the board
>higher cylinder pressures
>compatable with high perf injectors that need extra timing
>slightly less boost psi
>lower EGT's

and some other stuff I can't recall at the moment since it's late and I'm tired.... ;D
Does that help at all.....??

Bob.

dodgeman01

Less SMOKE!!! :'( :'( :'( It don't smoke enough now. But smoother idle would be nice since the truck shakes at idle right now pretty bad.
DM01

bigredbrick

I used a "wrecking" bar very carefully - fortunately didn't wreck anything. Since I was by myself I needed just a leetle bit more oomph to get it to move.

Bushy

Yup,,,, see, brute force with a little sweet talking while you're at it....

If the idle is rough then make sure it's set high enough to begin with... try 825-850 for an auto and about 800 for a stick tranny. This will give you some margin when going into "D" and/or running the AC/headlights etc. You won't have too much draw down to cause a rough idle.
If you don't have any smoke you need more juice .... ;D
heck we can make it smoke if ya want....

Pastor Bob.