Timing marks


I had someone else do the timing on my truck a year or so ago. I always thought it was to the head becaise my afc housing(when i had one) was very close to the head. I am getting prepared to put the timing back to stock just in case what i have now and the spacer will be to much. The mark on my pump is not there? U can see the mark on the timing case clear. What do you guys think my timing is at? Think i can run this and the spacer? Wheres the beat place to get a wrench to do the job? Etc etc. please tell me what you think and know anout all this...

 

looks like a newer pump, my new one doesn't have a timing mark on it yet, i think your supposed to do it when you install it at tdc. I've been thinking about this mod for awhile but idk if it would be worth it for me.

 

Dosent help that i painted everything under my hood...

 

Who has made theire own pump wrench!

 

I bought a cheap 13mm and heated it with the torch and bent it. Works great for a 3 dollar wrench.

I read in a previous post that you can machine 4mm off of the piston to achieve the same thing. Makes sense to me. How many have done this and does it work just as well? Thanks.

 

I bought a cheap set at harbor freight 10mm-19mm s-wrenches work great for the pump.

 

just found out about this mod. Anyone here add this mod along with propane injection? Currently my IP is at the stock setting. My sig is current if you that do assist me have questions about my set up. Was always told not to advance timing with propane. Just wanted to hear other opinions. Thanks

 

Well just installed my spacer. What a PITA! I should have done it before I reset my timing to stock as the front bolt is nearly impossible to get to because it hits the vacuum pump. Anyways I had my IP pushed to the head and I didn't like it because it essentially killed my bottom end which is important for towing in the mountains so I bought the spacer and returned the IP to it's stock location and drove it for a month or so to get used to it again (huge improvement in stop and go traffic and getting the load moving over the 1/4" bump). After installing the spacer this is my findings:
*No change in cold starts at 30F (good!)
*No noticeable loss of low end torque (very good)
*Midrange and up throttle response is way better (excellent)
*Not noticeable change in boost pressure (pyro not working)
Going up a long steep grade at 45mph at half throttle yielded 15psi boost and impressive acceleration so I should be getting better fuel economy (we'll see)

 

I just got done reading this whole thing, good info, but I did notice previously in this thread someone stated that a one tooth bump is about 10* worth of timing on a 72 tooth pump gear.
It was a couple years ago and this may not matter but, it seems that it was used in estimating an 1/8" timing bump.
According to my calculations, if 72 is the right amount of teeth on the pump gear, a one tooth bump is 5* worth of timing.

72 teeth divided into 360*(1 full rotation of pump gear)= 5*

 

That would be true except the crank is a 36 tooth gear and the crank rotates 2 times for every one rotation of the cam and pump gear. Hence 10*.

I made that same mistake 2 years ago when I counted the teeth. I forgot to account for crank degrees.

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I didn't know this, now I do. Thnx Rick