Here we go on spline count again
#1
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Thread Starter
Here we go on spline count again
Can anyone verify my spline count of 30 on the male end of their front driveline that inserts into the slip yoke? I counted 30 splines, but had a boat load of Mosquitos on me at the time. I am still on the hunt for a new slip yoke in the 1350 series that will accept my new 1350 u- joint and dana 60 yoke into the front diff. Denny's driveshaft is saying dodge back in the day used a proprietary spline count and my choices are to get a new driveline from the transfer case to the dana 60 yoke in the 1350 series. My OEM slip yoke is too short and has 3/4" of male spline showing
#3
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D60 Round Yoke-Broncograveyard.com
I plan on going with this and it will accept the standard 1410 companion flange. The flange at the transfer case is already this same bolt pattern
I have a driveshaft from a 2014 ram 2500 (uses AAM parts) and it has the same bolt pattern and hub pilot at the transfer case and uses u joints similar in size to a 1410.
I plan on going with this and it will accept the standard 1410 companion flange. The flange at the transfer case is already this same bolt pattern
I have a driveshaft from a 2014 ram 2500 (uses AAM parts) and it has the same bolt pattern and hub pilot at the transfer case and uses u joints similar in size to a 1410.
#4
Registered User
Yeah, I tried to swap yokes between a '80s GM front driveshaft and a Dodge one... they both use the saginaw CV so I thought it would be the same. Nope. The GM yoke was a spicer 1310 and had a bigger spline than the Dodge 7260 or 7290.
I think a conversion ujoint is your best solution for the short term. A 2ndgen shaft is a bit longer. Even if you get a 1350 slip yoke, you are still dealing with the 3R or 1330 CV. 1350 CVs are found in Superduties or made-to-order. Or do what shackwrrr is trying with the late AAM stuff.
I'm content to run the stock 1st or 2nd gen shafts. I clearanced the slip yoke and 3R CV for more angle. I've got a lot more mods to do that may affect driveshafts before I shell out for a high $$$ one.
I think a conversion ujoint is your best solution for the short term. A 2ndgen shaft is a bit longer. Even if you get a 1350 slip yoke, you are still dealing with the 3R or 1330 CV. 1350 CVs are found in Superduties or made-to-order. Or do what shackwrrr is trying with the late AAM stuff.
I'm content to run the stock 1st or 2nd gen shafts. I clearanced the slip yoke and 3R CV for more angle. I've got a lot more mods to do that may affect driveshafts before I shell out for a high $$$ one.
#5
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Thread Starter
Thanks both of you. My thoughts are to take my front drive shaft off from transfer case to diff and take it to a drive line shop, show them what I'm trying to do by connecting to 1350 u joint and slip yoke, and they should be able to custom fab and balance something for me. Say this takes a few days... Is there something I need to do to my transfer case with the cv flange off? Never taken that off before. Will anything leak while I'm driving the truck w/o a driveline attached?
#7
Registered User
Heck, with my old '72 Powerwagon, I have driven out of the woods several times with the rear driveshaft broken and in the bed, hubs locked and front tires spinning.
You gotta love drive shaft flanges, rather than slip yokes.
You gotta love drive shaft flanges, rather than slip yokes.
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#8
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Thanks both of you. My thoughts are to take my front drive shaft off from transfer case to diff and take it to a drive line shop, show them what I'm trying to do by connecting to 1350 u joint and slip yoke, and they should be able to custom fab and balance something for me. Say this takes a few days... Is there something I need to do to my transfer case with the cv flange off? Never taken that off before. Will anything leak while I'm driving the truck w/o a driveline attached?
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