plcnut

I replaced my headgasket because of a coolant leak under the thermostat housing. I used this thread as a guide: https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=236843

There are two things that I haven't seen mentioned on this forum that can save a lot of trouble if the only reason you are pulling the head is to replace the gasket or installing studs.

#1- when removing the injector lines, do NOT remove any of the clamps off of the lines, all you have to do is remove the bolts that hold the clamp mounts to the intake. The lines will now be removed as two assemblies and there is no more trying to get them reinstalled in the correct order.

#2- you do not need to remove the injectors from the head if you are only replacing the gasket or installing studs, you DO however need to be very careful handling the head so that you do not damage the injector tips. Just remove the injector high pressure lines, and remove the nut that holds the return line to the tee at the drivers side rear of the block. I found it to be a lot less hassle than removing all the injectors and the injector return lines.

I hope this will be a help to somebody.

Rick 12v CTD

I agree on the injector lines. I found that one out when I had to take my ip off. soooo much easier.

as for the injectors, I'd personally rather remove them, knowing me in my vast efforts to be careful, something will go wrong anyway and I'd ruin one, or all of the tips. I have bad luck like that.

Glantz496

x2 on removing the injectors.... I just redid my headgasket as well and even with my engine hoist doing the heavy lifting the head still moved around enough that I would've definitely banged the tips up.

Oh and just make sure you have EVERYTHING detached from the head... when i lifted mine I didnt see the clamp holding the return line sooo she straightened out just a tad

Crossy's son

CLEAN THE BLOCK AND HEAD VERY WELL. It's not a bad idea to have it resurfaced especially if the head gasket failed, you never know how that gasket wore into the head when it was wiggling around.

I work in a machine shop, we will take it all apart and clean it in a spray washer, bead blast and polish the valves on a wirewheel, and resurface it for $90, and your choice if you want new valve seals (most do it for extra $10)

Not a bad deal for safe insurance

plcnut

^yea, the $90 might not be bad to have it cleaned up, that was the hardest part of the whole job, it took a couple of hours of scraping and scrubbing with Scotch Brite to get it satisfactory. I am kind of picky though.