Is there supposed to be some goopy greasy in the AFC on the cone and pin? Or is this acumulated over the past 200K miles? There is a buildup under where the pin was riding onthe cone and some on the pin itself.

Took mine apart tonight and looked it over. Wasnt shure if I was looking at the correct "tick" mark described or not. It was a round punch mark on the underside of the metal disc in the middle of the diaphram. It was towards the rocker covers and I turned it to the 3:00 area like the article on the dodgeram site sugested.

At first I noticed no difference but after I "excercised" it some the pin must have freed up and the boost does come up quicker now than it did before. I think the grease in there was making the pin hold up from getting full travel at first... my guess anyway.

I can now hit 18lbs easily with allitle over half throttle in 5th around 65-70mph where it used to have to be floored to get that. Doesn't really give me any higher overall boost though guess that is what the full power screw is for.

Didn't mess with the star wheel or anything else while in there.

 

Andy, it's fairly common to find that sort of mess in there over time......it does just get dirty and break down..
You should just just get in there and clean it out real good.. use what ever you have to, to clean it up then apply some synthetic grease as an example....I prefer that because it can deal with the heat the pump generates and still stay on the cone/parts and it will also stay fairly flexible enough when the temps get pretty cold too.

The way most of us clean them out is to use something like WD-40....it has good cleaning AND lubrication properties all in one package and does a decent job of freeing up the the guide pin.
That's the little pin that rides up and down on the fuel cone.
As for the amount of rotation you did, that is not the necessarily the best way to do it. While many pumps/trucks came with the cone set in "roughly" the same area there is enough variation that you need to visually look closely at the cone contours and set the cone that way.
The basics are pretty simple...the cone itself is not on center, in other words the thing is offset and if you look REAL close you'll see that the base of the cone on one side is indented further than the opposite side. If you set the deepest indent toward the front (radiator) you will have max AFC cone fueling rates....if you use the shallowest, you'll have the min AFC fueling rate...simple.

The starwheel is also pretty simple, just think of it as a preload...the higher up the starwheel is wound the more preload on the AFC diaphram/cone and that means you'll need more PSI of boost to start it moving AND move it all the way down.
So, wind it up and it holds the fueling increase back until you have more boost built up, down and you get your fueling rate sooner, at lower psi.

What's the purpose??? Well, you can control the level of fueling and also smoke/heat by waiting until you have a bit more boost built up before the fueling rate is accelerated, or, conversely you can set it so it contributes to....."The Super Eclipse Cloud Of Death"....effect...

pb....

 

Hey, that's my truck! Good line, Pastor, I'll have to use that.

 

The way I have it set is not quite at the deepest setting, but deeper than it was. I will pull it back out and clean it up. I have some amsoil red in the grease gun that will work good.

I could see where the cone comes up to the bottom of the pin that it was offset to one side and rotating it to where I did made it somewhat deeper for the pin to ride in.

I am pulling the jeep down to do some playing today so I will see if it made a difference, especially since the wind is blowing hard out of the south today (the direction I need to go... will need another tank of liquid gold.. I mean fuel).

 

uhm whats wrong with a cloud of smoke ? unless your the guy that was behind me in that sunbird convertable,,,you know the kind polo shirt with a sweater tied around his shoulder

 

It did make a difference towing today. Was driving south into a 25-30mph wind and had no trouble keeping 70mph in the flint hills.

I do have to watch the EGTs now though. Before pulling the highest I ever saw was a hair over 900. Now I can easily hit 1K and a highest of 1150 on a steep hill. Even on somewhat level ground it maintained 900 degrees constant, but with the wind it was also running 10-12psi boost on level ground at 70mph.

Got all the parts for my BHAF better get it put together I guess.

I can get a much more noticable smoke cloud under low boost now. Will have to see how much it put a hit in the milleage. Going to southern OK a few weeks ago I averaged 15mpg towing.

 

Those temps are inside the acceptable range...you can go 1200*F-1250*F so long as you keep an eye on your coolant temps....the engine block, cylinder head and cooling system will eventually become heat saturated and you'll find the cooling system will not be able to keep up. Having said that, 1200'ish is just inside the rate 100% duty cycle for our engines and, you can use that daily....just remember,...cooling system guage, cooling system guage...cool..,well you get it...

pb...

 

Bushy, that is assuming his pyro is pre turbo. I don't see in your sig, Andy, where it is, but I have been known to be blind before. Post turbo, and you are getting hot. Sounds to me as though a smaller turbo housing would help, either way, if you feel like spending the money.

 

I am pre-turbo.