I picked up a ve seal kit today from the bosche dealer; surprising it was only $22 bucks with the front seal! But, I bought a parts truck with a leak between the pump head and housing. Im going to take this as an opportunity to pull the pump and reseal it, and learn a little. Is there any advice that any one can offer me before I get elbow deep in all the little parts?

 

Keep everything very clean. Lay the parts out in an orderly fashion. I can't stress "clean" too much.

 

Get the write up on doing the VW ve pump, the only difference is one less spring on ours and we have 6 nozzles instead of 4.
It is easy once you do one. The Problem is figuring out which O-ring to use from the kit on some items.

 

http://www.vwdieselparts.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6694

read read read
gov assembley shaft pay closssssssssssssssssssssse att
use feeler gauge inside pump (end of shaft) should work

other than that POC

 

there are two 3 sided nuts on the (outsidez) of the pump 12 or 13mm 12 point can be trimmed to fit bosch shops use STP oil treatment to assemble.

I used a small pipe wrench for nut in the center of the head

dont over tighten you will crush the copper washers. I got no specs ask your dealer.

good luck

 

I pulled my pump and backed out the pump head to get to the seal. Man the old rubber one came out in pieces. It was as brittle as windshield trim off a dodge diesel! Im really certain that this was the source of my leak and Im reluctant to go any further into the pump without a diagram...Is there any seals that any of you would argue for me to replace???

 

If you plan to keep the pump for a long time, I would suggest replacing the two plunger return springs since you already have the hydraulic head removed. The part number is 467-010-410. Supposed to be for high rpm springs. The rest is just hard parts any further, well 99% or so.

The seals to replace are, front, top cover, fuel pin, fuel screw, backside ksb, throttle shaft seal and bushing to name a few. Most are within the top cover.

I guess if you just plan to dump it, then put it back together and call it good.

 

Do the one on the backside of the timing piston for sure. It would suck to have to pull the pump again.

 

Do as Dave said, Having replaced only the head seal, I had to take the pump back out to replace the advance timing cover plate seal next to the engine side that was also leaking. You can't see it if it's leaking, only the fuel going down from the bottom of the pump which could be it or the head seal or both.

 

Well I hunkered down and replace all of the seals I could: piston head, metering valve, KSB plate + the back side plate, fuel pin, fuel screw, top cover, throttle shaft etc. I must say, my knees where shaking in the beginning, but it was surprisingly easy! Within 5 minutes of hooking up the battery she was purring! I have a slight drip from the control valve but Im gonna pull it tomorrow and double check the O-rings. HUGE THANKS to Jim Lane for his writeups, and to everyone else on here! You guys are better than the FSM.

PS: Im glad nobody was around to see my victory dance...it was shameful.

 

Can anyone verify that the number given above is correct? I took that number to the local bosh distributor and that number is one digit short. They put a 1 in front of it, 1-467-101-410, and that comes up as something like "spring set" and was about $40.

thanks, Aaron

 

the front seal can get a retainer, so the front seal does not blow out with higher fuel pressure

 

That makes sense to me.