Getting a full pull on the throttle?
I have a 91 1/2 with an auto tranny, someone once mentioned that I should adjust the throttle to get full pull. In his truck with a manual tranny he had to have a tach so as to never over rev., but he said withe the auto that would not be a problem.
Now my question is....
Can this be done?
Does it help?
Has anyone done this?
How do I do it?
Thanks
Rich
Now my question is....
Can this be done?
Does it help?
Has anyone done this?
How do I do it?
Thanks
Rich
LOL i just love beating Dave to a post
If you look under the dash the arm that the pedal attaches to has a small cable coming off it that goes to the throttle. If you pull the slack out of the cable, towards the bed and lift up on the pedal there souldnt be a space between the arm and the cable stop. If theres a space all you need is a bushing to remove the space, i used a crimp on elc connector. If theres a space even with your foot to floor the pump may not be at WOT.
If you look under the dash the arm that the pedal attaches to has a small cable coming off it that goes to the throttle. If you pull the slack out of the cable, towards the bed and lift up on the pedal there souldnt be a space between the arm and the cable stop. If theres a space all you need is a bushing to remove the space, i used a crimp on elc connector. If theres a space even with your foot to floor the pump may not be at WOT.
In addition to what loch said, the linkage under the hood may need adjustment. Have somebody floor it while you watch the linkage, the threaded rod may need adjustment.
Also you can adjust the high idle screw (the thing the throttle arm on the pump hits at full travel) to allow more RPM. Rip the cone shaped cap off and back it out until the throttle arm can just barely touch it, then go back in a turn.
No worries on over-revving the engine with the stock governor spring.
Y'all might be quick, but you sure aren't thorough.
Also you can adjust the high idle screw (the thing the throttle arm on the pump hits at full travel) to allow more RPM. Rip the cone shaped cap off and back it out until the throttle arm can just barely touch it, then go back in a turn.
No worries on over-revving the engine with the stock governor spring.

Y'all might be quick, but you sure aren't thorough.
I had the same problem with too much slack in the "go" cable. I did a McGiver fix. I sawed off about a 1/2 in slab off a wooden dowel, drilled a small hole in the center slightly larger than the cable, sawed a kerf from the outside to the center hole with a hacksaw, slid the cable through the kerf and put a hose clamp around the dowel to keep the dowel from splitting. This took up the slack after adjusting throttle linkage and high speed stop.
Originally Posted by limitedslip
I had the same problem with too much slack in the "go" cable. I did a McGiver fix. I sawed off about a 1/2 in slab off a wooden dowel, drilled a small hole in the center slightly larger than the cable, sawed a kerf from the outside to the center hole with a hacksaw, slid the cable through the kerf and put a hose clamp around the dowel to keep the dowel from splitting. This took up the slack after adjusting throttle linkage and high speed stop.
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Just dont call it a gas pedal
I dont know why anyone would be upset about "throttle" thats what it is. A throttle pedal.
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...ad.php?t=95983
You might read this post for getting full throttle. You may have to get to the end of this thread to get good info on full throttle.
good luck
I dont know why anyone would be upset about "throttle" thats what it is. A throttle pedal.https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...ad.php?t=95983
You might read this post for getting full throttle. You may have to get to the end of this thread to get good info on full throttle.
good luck
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