Ok getrag people give it to me, how bad is it?

I noticed my truck slowly leaking fluid which looked like it was from the trans. It looked like it was coming from the point that the transfer and mount/tcase adapter bolts together. I found all the bolts to be finger tight or slightly tighter.

Pulled the adapter off and the snap ring for the bottom shaft was laying at the bottom. You can see the shims have been spinning. I worked the bearing off, not sure if it is supposed to be a press fit? I assume not since that is what the snap ring is for?

Now what's my course of action? Pull the trans and rebuild or?

 

The bearing is pressed onto the cluster shaft yes. The snap ring is supposed to hold it on too. Looks like not enough pre-load maybe? I'm not a getrag expert but have 13k on the rebuild I've done.

You need to pull the trans to get the cluster shaft out. I'd do a full bearing rebuild while I was there, and synchros if you need them. Wouldn't hurt to do the input shaft as well.

Was it making any weird noises?

 

It was starting to whine a little, figured it was from low oil. When I drained it out it had ~3liters in it.

 

To be safe I'd rebuild it. Shouldn't cost you any more than 400 for all the parts.

Here's what my front cluster shaft bearings looked like


Mine started with a bit of low rpm moan and just got progressively worse.

 

Ouch!

I will pull the trans and tear it down for inspection after christmas.

Hopefully everything else is in good shape.

 

Pulled it apart and it's minor damage, basically some scratches on the outer most bearings/races and the counter shaft surface. The inside of the counter gear has no scratches felt by fingers, the counter shaft itself though does.

Manual says you can clean up the shaft with 3-400 grit emery, not sure if that will do it though.

What's everyone's thoughts?

I am planning to change all the outer bearings/races (main and countershaft each end) aswell as possibly cleanup the counter shaft and reuse it.

 

Mine didn't have any scratches on it like yours does. I remember reading the manual saying you can clean it up if they aren't gouges I think..

Hopefully someone else can chime in and give their advice.

 

If rollers run directly on that shaft, it won't last. It'll spall out in short order. If it's a race that seats on it, it would be fine if it's not rattle loose and you put a little loctite sleeve retainer under it.

Just my opinion.

 

I think it would be fine. Is the shaft still a snug fit it the cluster gear? The shaft and cluster gear should spin together on the shaft bearings.

 

My opinion, based on what I can see in the pictures, is that the only non-serviceable parts are the shims themselves.

Those screws holding the adapter to the transmission case seem to have a tendency to come loose, I think it is a design flaw more than poor assembly procedures.

Good luck getting everything back together.

 

Might as well take apart the main shaft and check the syncro rings. The first gear syncro ring on mine was toast. The brass was gone on the ring.

 

I dont think any further disassembly is required to be honest. It is clear this trans has been rebuilt before.

I may take a closer look next week when i get back but at this point i am pretty confident everything else is in good shape.

The input shaft looks like it was replaced not very long ago.

 

My mainshaft looked good when I pulled it out of the case but on closer inspection the first gear syncro and slider was hooped. I never would have noticed it had I not taken it apart. If you look closely at the 1-2 syncro slider make sure it doesn't look heated. The rings should be nice and silver looking not dark blue like mine were. The other syncros I don't think you would be able to tell without taking them apart. Your main shaft bearings I would bet will be fine.

 

I will take a closer look on monday.

Have a bearing kit and shims coming, should be here tomorrow but i am out of town.

 

Sure glad I decided to re - bearing the whole thing. This is the rear main shaft bearing.

Pulled the main shaft apart and checked all syncros, look great.