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Full Power Screw Tamper Seal Removal

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Old Oct 25, 2004 | 07:46 AM
  #1  
TexasHardcore's Avatar
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From: San Marcos, TX
Full Power Screw Tamper Seal Removal

Answering a question on another forum, I drew up a little diagram to show how to remove that seal without damaging anything.

I figured I'd contribute here and maybe it'll help lend a hand to someone on here.

I know it's not much, but I've read in alot of instances that people are going about removing the seal all wrong and could possibly damage something in the process.

Here goes:


First... get a fine point center punch or chisel and a hammer.

Next... hit directly on the puzzle-joint to break the connection.

Next... gently pry the seal apart with a screwdriver.

Finally... CRANK THAT SCREW!

Here's my childish "PAINT" rendering...
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Old Oct 25, 2004 | 11:57 AM
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Hey,that is pretty good man,mine will only go in about 1.5 turns and then bottoms out.I was told trucks with 4.10 gears have a stop to limit top speed.Ever heard of that?The truck is running good but I could always use more power.Wouldnt mind getting one more turn out of it.But I was told you have to take the pump apart to get to the stop.
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Old Oct 25, 2004 | 11:59 AM
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you'd have to talk to a board veteran...wannadiesel or bushy or someone
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Old Oct 25, 2004 | 12:01 PM
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From: Lubbock TX.
Actually mine is completely frozen up. I cant even get it to back out,all there is is a jambnut and I backed it all the way off. ???????????????
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Old Oct 25, 2004 | 01:09 PM
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From: Gatesville, TX
I've never heard of certain trucks having a stop, but that doesnt mean there arent any. It's not that big of a job to take the to half of the pump off to get the stop if there is one. When you have it off, you might as well throw in a gov spring. If ya want some help give me a hollar. I'm about to open up my pump again to make some minor adjustments.
BTW, Nice drawing jeremy...i'm sure that will help alot of the newbies out.
Cody
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Old Oct 25, 2004 | 01:36 PM
  #6  
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Hey nice write up you might want to send it to monty to see if he wants to place it in the tech facts. It always helps to have pictures.

NeedMorePower what are you up to now? I talked to my pump guy a while back and we might start building a special pump if it works I will let you know. I need to start working on my twins first and then the pump so it may be a while. On paper it looks like it might work, but it may be a total flop. I figured that I would try it and if it work great and if it doesnt I guess I will have to go back to the drawing board.

Stomp
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Old Oct 25, 2004 | 02:07 PM
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From: Gatesville, TX
I'm not up to anything you havent done. I'm gonna finally get around and do that stuff we talked about. Did you ever get that head retorqued? I'm real curious to see how that beast runs. You need to make a 1/4 pass soon!
BTW, drop me a line and I can give you the name of a man who builds some pretty mean pumps. It might be worth your time talking to him.
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Old Oct 25, 2004 | 04:22 PM
  #8  
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From: New Holland, PA
Caleb- When the collar is crimped on it usually screws up the threads where it was. You're probably hung up on that buggered section of threads. You may also be all the way up, the injectors were smaller on the newer trucks than on the non-intercooled trucks.
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Old Oct 26, 2004 | 12:10 AM
  #9  
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Yup, I agree.... those threads are kinda chewed up and make it hard to turn the screw, either way.
If you want better control of this little booger, then just remove the screw from the pump... (You'll have some dribbling of fuel) and work on it in plain sight.
You can remove the lock collar and the little washer with tab end as well.
The one thing you'll need to do first is measure how far the screw is turned in before starting.
I used a vernier caliper end and made a quick measurement from the pump body were the locknut touches, to the end of the fuel screw and just duplicated that depth when reinstalling the screw.
That will give you a good starting point to tune from.

If you don't want to remove the screw then loosen the fuel screw, and while holding the end of the fuel screw's 6mm end with a small socket, back the locknut out and back.... it will pop the "weld" on the lock collar and you'll be able to use the locknut to "dress" the threads on the screw a bit.

bob....
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Old Oct 26, 2004 | 09:49 AM
  #10  
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I just realized my drawing was incorrect.

So here's the "right" drawing...

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Old Oct 26, 2004 | 05:43 PM
  #11  
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From: Lubbock TX.
I cant get the screw to move at all,not back or forward.All it has is a jambnut and it comes off easy.So,I really wish I could figure this out.Maybe my truck is telling me it doesnt want any more fuel.But I will get it eventually-I hope.Has any one had it just seize on you?
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