fuel pressure regulator ??
10-13-2011, 12:26 PM
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fuel pressure regulator ??
has anybody found a good fuel pressure regulator to use between a high pressure piston pump, and the VE inj. pump?? i have been shopping, but the choices are mind numbing. my 2 big concerns are fuel compatability. and do i have to use a return style regulator? there are not very many diesel specific regulators (if any). but i have found a few that are both gasoline and diesel compatable. so, what makes a regulator diesel compatable? and do i have to use a regulator with a return line? i know its short notice as i am ordering something today to get it for the weekend! but maybe i will get lucky, and someone with some answers will see this!
i have checked out the unit "BC847" uses in his awsome "sticky" thread, and may just order it up if nobody comes up with another alternative. but i am trying to avoid running another return line.
i have checked out the unit "BC847" uses in his awsome "sticky" thread, and may just order it up if nobody comes up with another alternative. but i am trying to avoid running another return line.
10-13-2011, 04:49 PM
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you are definitely going to need a return style regulator. I used a mallory I think. It is red and black. a few guys over on 1stgen.org had used it and had good luck. mine has been fine for a year or so.
10-13-2011, 08:06 PM
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10-13-2011, 11:04 PM
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so, here is the reason for this continued "re-fuel" project:
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...10#post3031210
and here is the rig:
http://ramchargercentral.com/mopar-t...ast-rig!!/450/
as of now, my plans are: obviously, get a regulator on there! and get some "real" gauges. fuel pressure, oil pressure, coolant temperature, boost, and EGT. (gonna buy a tranny temp while i am at it because before long it is gonna be an auto!). i have had the crankcase draining for a couple days now. also opened up the bottom of the vacuum pump. and i am planning to pull the oil pan (if i can get it out without pulling the engine) i have to pick the engine up to install the new motor mounts i have had sitting on the shelf for months anyways. good time to pull the pan for reseal/inspection. and since i am into it this deep, and i am eventually ditching the stock tank for a bed mounted tank. and, i am going to need another return line, and i might as well upgrade my feed line, i am just going to go ahead and do the tank lines now. the tank is 40gals. with a 1"NPT outlet. then i am going to build a tank to mount between the rear frame rails (ala ramcharger, but much heavy-duty-errr!). will plumb the 40gal. bed tank to the frame tank, then add a large pick up line, and 2 or 3 return lines plus a vent. the system will fill through the bed tank. and the sending unit will be in the frame tank. i figure i can get 30gals. between the frame rails for a total of 70gals. install a nice large pair of filters at the tank, and i should be ready for just about anything!
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...10#post3031210
and here is the rig:
http://ramchargercentral.com/mopar-t...ast-rig!!/450/
as of now, my plans are: obviously, get a regulator on there! and get some "real" gauges. fuel pressure, oil pressure, coolant temperature, boost, and EGT. (gonna buy a tranny temp while i am at it because before long it is gonna be an auto!). i have had the crankcase draining for a couple days now. also opened up the bottom of the vacuum pump. and i am planning to pull the oil pan (if i can get it out without pulling the engine) i have to pick the engine up to install the new motor mounts i have had sitting on the shelf for months anyways. good time to pull the pan for reseal/inspection. and since i am into it this deep, and i am eventually ditching the stock tank for a bed mounted tank. and, i am going to need another return line, and i might as well upgrade my feed line, i am just going to go ahead and do the tank lines now. the tank is 40gals. with a 1"NPT outlet. then i am going to build a tank to mount between the rear frame rails (ala ramcharger, but much heavy-duty-errr!). will plumb the 40gal. bed tank to the frame tank, then add a large pick up line, and 2 or 3 return lines plus a vent. the system will fill through the bed tank. and the sending unit will be in the frame tank. i figure i can get 30gals. between the frame rails for a total of 70gals. install a nice large pair of filters at the tank, and i should be ready for just about anything!
10-14-2011, 09:19 AM
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i've got two tanks on the w250 and I upsized the return to 3/8" and have the normal IP/injector return tee'd with the regulator return back to the tanks through 3 way valves and don't seem to have any issues.
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10-17-2011, 11:47 AM
#10
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have you confirmed it to be the front seal being pushed out? or did the seal just fail (but still in place) under the pressure.
I have retained my VE front seal and want to run my second gen lift pump without a regulator but don't want the front seal to stay in its bore, but still fail from the pressure.
I have retained my VE front seal and want to run my second gen lift pump without a regulator but don't want the front seal to stay in its bore, but still fail from the pressure.
10-17-2011, 12:00 PM
#11
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Question
If I understand it there is a low pressure piston lift pump available that would not require having a regulator in the system. Why would you want to put a high pressure and the regulator instead just a low pressure pump? I've only read about it but thinking it would be a simpler replacement in my application at least. Just my two cents, Mike.
If I understand it there is a low pressure piston lift pump available that would not require having a regulator in the system. Why would you want to put a high pressure and the regulator instead just a low pressure pump? I've only read about it but thinking it would be a simpler replacement in my application at least. Just my two cents, Mike.
10-17-2011, 12:16 PM
#12
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the low pressure pushes less fuel and usually runs in the area of 13psi.
You can regulate the high pressure pump to closer to 18psi and it just pushes more fuel because the spring is stiffer, and the piston is larger.
The main reason I'm trying to run it without a regulator is because all the second gen guys say their stock lp is good for 500hp. I'll be over 400 for sure when I'm done putting my motor in my ford and I don't think the low pressure pump will support over 400hp very well. I wanna make sure the inlet is supplying the IP with enough fuel at all times.
You can regulate the high pressure pump to closer to 18psi and it just pushes more fuel because the spring is stiffer, and the piston is larger.
The main reason I'm trying to run it without a regulator is because all the second gen guys say their stock lp is good for 500hp. I'll be over 400 for sure when I'm done putting my motor in my ford and I don't think the low pressure pump will support over 400hp very well. I wanna make sure the inlet is supplying the IP with enough fuel at all times.
10-17-2011, 12:17 PM
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Rick,
your question is a good one. i did wonder that at first, then realized it didn't really matter as i was going to have to get into it anyways. and it also brings up another question i have. is the seal deep enough in the bore to add a snap-ring groove. (i happen to be a machinist by trade, and adding the groove would be a piece of cake!) which takes us back to the root of your question: will the seal hold the pressure if you can keep it in the bore? hmmmmm????
and, Santa,
it would be much simpler for you! unfortunately what i have found is that the low-pressure version is about twice the money.
in my situation, its cheaper for me to just buy a regulator, as i already have the high-pressure pump (and got it for cheap $85!)
your question is a good one. i did wonder that at first, then realized it didn't really matter as i was going to have to get into it anyways. and it also brings up another question i have. is the seal deep enough in the bore to add a snap-ring groove. (i happen to be a machinist by trade, and adding the groove would be a piece of cake!) which takes us back to the root of your question: will the seal hold the pressure if you can keep it in the bore? hmmmmm????
and, Santa,
it would be much simpler for you! unfortunately what i have found is that the low-pressure version is about twice the money.
in my situation, its cheaper for me to just buy a regulator, as i already have the high-pressure pump (and got it for cheap $85!)
10-17-2011, 01:18 PM
#14
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well the general consensus is that it will hold the pressure to a certain point, what that point is, I'm yet to find a definite answer. My mallory regulator regulates as high as 25psi. I may just run it at it's max setting. I've heard guys running up to 18 or even 20 psi without a retained seal. So I'd imagine a 25psi retained seal would be just fine.
Also, yes some guys have pushed the seal in further and added a groove for a snap ring. Which is a great idea, but the gear shaft is tapered. I'm not sure if it's tapered all the way inside or not, but if it is, it will stretch the seal if it's pushed in further. I guess once you get things apart you can have a better look at it then. I have heard of guys doing exactly as you say though. A snap ring would be my first choice but I wasn't willing to pull my front seal off to check seeing as how the seal was new.
Also, yes some guys have pushed the seal in further and added a groove for a snap ring. Which is a great idea, but the gear shaft is tapered. I'm not sure if it's tapered all the way inside or not, but if it is, it will stretch the seal if it's pushed in further. I guess once you get things apart you can have a better look at it then. I have heard of guys doing exactly as you say though. A snap ring would be my first choice but I wasn't willing to pull my front seal off to check seeing as how the seal was new.
