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1st Gen. Ram - All TopicsDiscussion for all Dodge Rams prior to 1994. This includes engine, drivetrain and non-drivetrain discussions. Anything prior to 1994 should go in here.
Ok, so I have this 91.5 motor in an 03 1500. Running rebuilt Bosch injector bodies with DAP 5x11 SAC 145* nozzles. Skipped a tooth on the pump and pulled pump all the way from the head. H1C, no intercooler. Fuel screw is turned in 1 turn, starwheel is up about 3 turns from stock. Very moderately tuned. It ran real well and clean, no haze at idle, for about 2 months, ~2000 miles. Well about 2 weeks ago I'm driving down the highway and it starts cutting out on me. Like I was running out of fuel. So I got fuel, was still doing it. Got so bad that it stalled on the highway. Got out, bled injector lines, and it started up. Then, after it sits for a few hours, I start it up and it's stumbling all over itself. Back firing when I pedal it, struggling to run, rough idle, massive amounts of white smoke, clears up after about 30 seconds but truck runs sluggish, no power like before, won't hold highway speed, cuts out. So thinking I have an air leak, I remove the line to the lift pump, stick it in a can of diese, and start the truck. Bleed injector lines, let it run a bit, then shut the truck off. Let it sit for 4 hours, go back, same problems at start up. Hook everything back up, go for a drive, same problems.
More info: fuel filter is new, lift pump is new(6 psi at idle), all fuel lines are new.
I should include that when it starts cutting out at highway speed, it is alleviated by letting off throttle, coasting for 5-10 seconds, and then back on throttle. That gets you about a mile of clean driving and then the cutting out starts again.
How's the fuel shut off solenoid? I once had one that was on it's way out could sometimes drive it all day no problem other times I couldn't go 5 miles with out it acting like what you are describing.
Could be the large springs between the cam plate and the injector head inside the IP.....they do have a tendency to crack/break and shatter. This can cause all kinds of weird and wonderful issue since depending on how the spring(s) break you can have uneven spring pressure so the IP can't build up proper injection pulse pressures, to a truck that will not run at all....etc.
I would want to tear down the IP and put a re-seal kit, and maybe a set of new springs, in to it....if the problem persists after that then at least you are fairly certain the IP is not the problem.
j.fonder - I think you need a brand new injector pump & brand new sticks.
Because that magically solves air ingress, amateur draw straws, finger tight hose clamps and non lubed VEs.
I'll drop a CAT bucket on it & charge you $50 to watch. If it even makes it up on a drive this far.
Need I publicly remind you that you sold me this lemon of a motor? Maybe I should start a thread explaining to the fine members here at DTR the problems I've had with this POS "low miles, perfect" motor you sold me. Can't trust anyone these days.
Does the below pic ring a bell or did the included goat fog your head.
Originally Posted by j.fonder
Need I publicly remind you that you sold me this lemon of a motor? Maybe I should start a thread explaining to the fine members here at DTR the problems I've had with this POS "low miles, perfect" motor you sold me. Can't trust anyone these days.
Has it slipped at all? With a tooth skipped and the pump retarded as far as possible, that seems like it could be on the low side. Do you know or have a way of finding where the timing is? For example, with a dial indicator in the hydraulic head measuring plunger travel at #1 TDC. Might be worth pulling the nut off the pump gear to inspect the woodruff key.
Has it slipped at all? With a tooth skipped and the pump retarded as far as possible, that seems like it could be on the low side. Do you know or have a way of finding where the timing is? For example, with a dial indicator in the hydraulic head measuring plunger travel at #1 TDC. Might be worth pulling the nut off the pump gear to inspect the woodruff key.
a skipped tooth and away from the head is about the same advance as just pushing the pump to the head. so it's still advanced from stock, which wouldn't cause this problem, because well, it's run fine that way until this all happened.
i suppose pulling the nut off the gear and looking wouldn't take much time/effort.