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Fuel Heater O-ring

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Old 11-26-2017, 02:05 PM
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I do want to say that all of you guys have been great at helping me in this process of elimination and really Thank You all for this I love my truck but obviously don't know too much about them
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Old 11-27-2017, 04:38 PM
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Great timing on this thread being brought back up.

Just got back from a 1100km trip and the truck started running rough half way through. It was dark so couldn't see anything, but this afternoon fired it up and I'm blowing white smoke and the motor is stumbling like I have a bad injector, and could smell fresh diesel from the engine compartment. Sure enough it's leaking at my fuel heater. Off to cummins to order a couple gaskets.
Old 11-27-2017, 06:21 PM
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Somewhere I'm sure there exists a tool specially made for that spindle to tighten it properly. Last time I changed my filter the screw and heater came out with the filter. Why they couldn't have just put a hex end on it and be done with it. I guess they sell more tools that way.
Old 11-28-2017, 07:08 AM
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They do have a hex inside the threaded nipple that you spin the filter on. You need an allen wrench to fit inside it to tighten or remove them.
Old 11-28-2017, 02:16 PM
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Originally Posted by deere country
They do have a hex inside the threaded nipple that you spin the filter on. You need an allen wrench to fit inside it to tighten or remove them.
I've had several out, and have never seen the hex, just a large slot. Perhaps it was a later addition to the 2nd Gen's?
Old 11-28-2017, 05:51 PM
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I doubt I'd ever have the money to buy a newer truck. So I just get to complain about the lack of a hex.
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Old 11-29-2017, 06:35 AM
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The hex is on the heater delete stud (not the OEM unit).

On the factory slotted stud, I use a woodworking spade bit on a long 1/4” drive extension.

Originally Posted by thrashingcows
I've had several out, and have never seen the hex, just a large slot. Perhaps it was a later addition to the 2nd Gen's?
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Old 11-29-2017, 03:50 PM
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Originally Posted by ofelas
The hex is on the heater delete stud (not the OEM unit).

On the factory slotted stud, I use a woodworking spade bit on a long 1/4” drive extension.
I have an old bottle cap opener with a large flat top, then use a crescent wrench on the side of the opener to spin it in and out.
Old 11-29-2017, 04:03 PM
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I used this POS flat wrench I had in my junk tool box that was exactly thick enough to fit tightly in the slot and stay there. I fit the side of the wrench. I then had enough leverage to tighten the nipple sufficiently. I'll know at the next filter change if it's tight enough.


Old 11-29-2017, 06:32 PM
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I deleted mine. Doesn't really get cold enough in central PA anymore to need it.
Old 11-29-2017, 07:16 PM
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Originally Posted by MrFusion
I deleted mine. Doesn't really get cold enough in central PA anymore to need it.
I was in PA in the Pittsburgh area once when it was cold enough to freeze the ***** off the trailer hitch. Stuff on the shelf next to the outside wall froze. Not a fun time at all.
Old 11-29-2017, 08:28 PM
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Emphasis on CENTRAL PA! LOL. Pittsburgh area gets a lot of lake effect weather and arctic air. Harrisburg area typically doesn't get that. Sometimes it does but not often. It got barely into the teens at night once or twice last year.
Old 11-30-2017, 07:20 AM
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Originally Posted by MrFusion
Emphasis on CENTRAL PA! LOL. It got barely into the teens at night once or twice last year.
I have had days where that was about the day time high temp up here already this year.
I am off to throw another few logs on the fire...
Old 11-30-2017, 10:06 AM
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Smile

Originally Posted by ofelas
On the factory slotted stud, I use a woodworking spade bit on a long 1/4” drive extension.
Originally Posted by thrashingcows
I have an old bottle cap opener with a large flat top, then use a crescent wrench on the side of the opener to spin it in and out.
For posterity: there is a device made for this chore, called a "drag link socket."


Old 11-30-2017, 02:40 PM
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I have thought of deleting mine, and then running a small 12V silicon heat pad wrapped on the filter. If I end up with another fuel leak within a year or two after replacing the O-ring I will probably go this route.


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