i used napa oring from oil filter , havent had any problem. could be sucking air somewhere else

 

That was my first thought. the o ring if it seals wouldn't cause the problem.

 

Delete the fuel heater plate & O-ring, and eliminate yet another potential Dodge introduced leak on a tractor motor.

I got a solid 1.5 psi more fuel pressure off the lift pump doing this, and my heater plate assembly was pretty clean.

 

Anyone have a actual picture of the heater..I have a 93 diesel with the 5 speed 5.9l and it died and not start checked all the lines replaced the feed and return gutted the FSS and put in a new LP and If I bleed all the injectors it will start but then when I turn off after about a hour it will not..it seems to be sucking air somewhere could it be the heater and where exactly is it? any pics by chance?

 

The fuel heater is just under the fuel filter.
It is the round, black 3/4-1 inch thick disc with the wire plug in it.

 

when you say under do you mean inside it between the housing where the filter screws in and the filter itself or below the filter altogether I just looked and all I see below the filter is just the block itself for like 8 inches

I did replace the filter with a extended one that did not have a wire for the water sensor if that makes any difference

 

It is sandwich in-between the housing and the filter.
Not all trucks come with the heater, so you may not even have one.
They are a known spot to let air leak in to the fuel system though so it would be good to check it out.

 

When I installed my piston lift pump the fuel heater o-ring started leaking. Cummins has them for about $4.00 see the beginning of this thread for the part number. You have to unscrew the spindle that the filter screws onto to remove the heater. There is a slot in the spindle that you can fit a flat piece of metal into to unscrew it and screw it back in.

If you live where it gets cold you definitely need the fuel heater to prevent wax in the fuel from clogging your filter. If you live where I do then it's not needed.

Edwin

 

OK looked under there with a mirror and saw a wire with a plug going into a very dark black grease disk same size as the filter..that's the heater....so to take it off first take off the filter then just unscrew that with a pair of channel locks from the outside or? that's where that square gasket that people talk about it is? aI live in Arizona so If I want I can bypass it altogether and eliminate the risk of air leaks that way from at least that?
Could I have loosed it by mistake when I took of the filter to change it? And could I try and tighten it from outside with filter on?

 

https://www.genosgarage.com/product/...kets-and-seals

 

just saw your answer ..so I can just unscrew it all and get rid of it and put that thicker washer that they mention at the start and all good then!

 

great thanks for the link...so that replaces the filter oring or does it go on withthe heater still in there..was thinking of getting rid of it all together since I live in AZ hot all the time now 78 :-)

 

Removes it completely. Disconnect the heater wiring harness and save the heater for future owners. The nipple threads in the old nipple (removed) location.

Put some dielectric grease in the plug end to protect it from the elements.

 

It replaces the original, leaking O-Ring at the top of the installed fuel heater.

 

I cant tell if it's leaking or not..main issue is the truck will not start or after bleeding all injectors etc it will but after being off for over 30-60 minutes it won't start again...I keep hearing get rid of the air leaks which makes total sense so I have replaced both fill and return lines, the LP and filter and it stays running longer but still will not start so I thought based on many having issues with this particular Heater leak to replace or get rid of it all together.
I'm thinking I addressed all other possible leaks and got good pressure flow out of the tank by pressuriting the tank with air so it has to be in the general vicinity of the fuel filter pump or lines thereabouts i think...some say the return lines don't make a difference in the air getting in engine and some fixed their issue similar to mine by fixing air leaks in return lines so not sure about that one but I'm trying ALL OF THIS suggestions and pray that one of them work...IN THE MEAN TIME the darn bolt that holds banjo to bleed the filter went bad so had to take off and will get one at cummins or case ASAP Tuesday when I go into town a 190 mile round trip no less Lol part 5-10 bucks...GAS 25-30 and 5 hours later Lol