I have a fuel leak and it seems to be coming from the plastic piece above the fuel filter. can i remove this plastic piece or is there someway to make it tighter? mine moved when i changed my fuel filter and it wont go fully tight now any suggestions.

 

Sounds like the flat o-ring between the manifold and fuel heater is missing or mis-aligned.

 

the plastic piece on top is the fuel heater.

it is held on there by the threaded part that the filter screws onto. grab a hold of the threaded part and tighten it up then put the filter back on, just be careful not to hurt the threads.

 

Hey 1985cucv, That just happened to me today. Took the fuel filter off,and the fuel heater loosened up. I got it tight with my fingers,and when my wife gets back from driving it,i will let you know if mine is still leaking. I think you can take a long flat head screwdriver from underneath and tighten the threads back that way. Maybe "MASTER WANNADIESEL" will chime in...Justin

 

Couple options. Dodge dealer: order then replace the square cut oring that seals between the cylinder head and the fuel heater. Should cost around $5-$10. Cummins dealer: order the fuel heater delete short nipple/adaptor. Threads directly into cylinder head, and fuel filter will thread directly to the nipple without the heater. Costs around $17. Or order the square cut oring from Cummins, whichever one is closer.

 

Well the wife got back and no leaks...Justin

 

thanks guys

 

Ain't no count without pictures.

The Square-Cut O-ring as installed on the fuel heater . . .





The threaded pipe screws into the head holding the fuel heater and filter in place. . . .

 

Good pictures BC.


If you just hand-tightened the filter/heater stud, it will soon vibrate loose and might even let the filter fall off.


There are about as many tricks to removing/tightening the filter stud as there are feathers on a hen.


On a stock stud, with heater, the bottom has large slots each side of the hollow opening; anything that will bridge the hollow and fit in the slots can be used as a wrench, i.e. flat piece of steel, wide-bladed screw-driver, 9/16(I think?) drag-link socket, etc.


The filter-stud that replaces the stock one and deletes the plastic heater usually has the hollow shaped such that an Allen-wrench fits it and is much easier to remove/tighten.

 

I replaced mine with an inch long bolt holding down an aluminum block-off plate. That whole assembly is way more trouble than it's worth, IMHO. About the only thing the fuel heater ever did for anyone was cause leaks.

 

If you're gonna go that route, you don't need a block-off plate or bolt. There's nothing there to leak.

 

Yeah, I know, just wanted it to look good, in case anyone was under there looking at the bottom of my engine.

 

BC847 that picture should be in the sticky!!! Great job....

 

ok ill try that tommorrow no time to mess with it today