Ahhh I see. If it was charging before you did the installation, then I would think it is something you did during/after the install.

I think you have checked most of the main reasons the system does not charge. I'm leaning towards possibly a bad splice in the CPS wiring. I installed a fluidampr on my 93 motor, and did not need to use the wiring extensions.

Just thinking about your issue and I recall reading about the wiring connection plug that is in the kit, that they are not very good, and the connections are questionable?

How did you extend the wires?

 

i did use the kit.. the connections look solid. i double checked the splices on both ends. all of that being said.. i was never in the truck watching the voltmeter before the fludamper install and my dad is so unobservant that he often puts beer cans in the fridge upside down... he would have never noticed the issue
the battery was leaking badly and was installed in '02.

 

Well I would advise putting in proper crimped, and soldered connections in the wiring. I know it can be a PITA...but this would eliminate the wiring as a potential issue.

 

Pardon my ignorance ---- what is a "fluidamper" and what does it do ??


Now, with that behind us, recently, I did a bit of work that required me removing the top-of-dash 3-gauge "pod" , in order to get at what I was working on.

When it came time to put everything back together, I decided installing a few pig-tail plugs would make life easier the next time I had to mess with it.

With all my nice pig-tails crimped and soldered in place, I plugged everything together and went about my business.

The thing is though, I was not out after dark in that truck for a week or so; actually, it was sitting parked behind the guy's house whose 379 Peterbilt I was gone in for a week or so.

To make a long story short, I came in during the wee hours of the night, transferred all my belongings back into my truck, flipped ON my instrument-lights, and lit up the whole neighborhood.

I have a BRIGHT light indicator LED installed in that gauge pod.

When I finally found the problem, the brand-new molded-plastic pig-tail that I had used had a tiny strand of copper short-circuiting the plug --- defective from the factory.

From that day forth, I will always double-check any such components for such abnormalities.


Your problem may be something similar.

 

A Fluidampr is a fluid filled harmonic balancer. The theory is the fluid moves withing the balancer and will dampen vibrations and harmonic better then a rubber ring OEM style unit.

My OEM vs the new Fliudampr when I installed them....

 

And I guess those #12 boot-prints are for size-reference ...

Thanks for enlightening me; so that works much like a Centramatic wheel balancer.

That thing looks purely mechanical; I am guessing the electrical problems are a 1992/93 thing.

 

Actually size #14 boots to be exact....

Yes work on the same basic principle as the Centramatics.

And yes it has nothing to do with the electronic control of the Alternator on 92/93 trucks.

 

I will double check the provided connector kit. perhaps just make jumpers that are carefully butt spliced? no connector used? The fluidamper is definitely not the issue.. i feared it was my shotty work that caused this but in all honesty, the volt meter could have been showing a no charge situation for days... the truck is my dads DD and he does not know of such things. I will re-splice in the morning before trying the external VR

 

Isn't finding shoes a wonderful thing?

I'm 14 EEE, living in a rural area, I have had to start ordering them from the Internet since the last local shoe store closed...........

On the other hand, it has opened up a world of new possibilities, especially in USA made shoes.

 

i very carefully re spliced the cps and checked the gap. i removed the new alt and brought it back for a bench test.. just in case.. passed. all new relays. still at 12.4v installed an external VR just as it is installed on my truck... still no charge. im lost. are there any fusible links for the alt?

 

Ok, well try the key trick and see if you are getting any codes ( 41? 47? ) Anyway, with it hooked back up to PCM control, quickly ground the green field wire ( one that runs to the PCM ) and see if she doesn't go full charge. If it does, there is an issue either between the alt and the PCM or the PCM is toast. If it doesn't go full charge, then you might be still fighting a CPS issue. IIRC, PCM doesn't bring in ASD relay, which provides the 12V for the fields.
Thread from when I was fighting my Ramcharger......

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...arger+charging

 

There is one big fuse-link in the main charge wire, the fuse-link is usually green, located on that "duck-foot" connector where all the fuse-links converge, left fender-well, sort of under the hood-hinge; BUT, if that link is completely open, you would have no continuity from battery to alternator.

It can be blown and still have a tiny strand making connection; thus, it would show continuity, but not be able to carry the load.

 

The old Mopar charging systems are pretty simple. Check for voltage at the big wire on the alternator. It should be battery voltage. The blue field wire is ignition feed, should be 12 volts key on, you may need the engine running for this. The green field wire is the ground that goes to the PCM. Grounding this wire will full field the alternator if you have 12 volts at the blue wire. It should charge then regardless of whether the CPS or PCM is any good.

I suspect though that since you said the A/C is also blowing warm you may have a CPS failure but check the voltages first and make sure the alternator is capable of putting out before you go looking any further.

 

grounded and got 17v... with engine running.

 

Well, the alternator is working. One thing to check off the list.