Thanks Wiki Wizard!

 

Ok so really the two connectors are connected like at a block. So even if the VW solenoid has only one connector just join the two wires together and attach them to the solenoid. The second pin on my solenoid is nothing more than a "bus bar" right?

I wonder if I can get the vw part at an auto parts store like NAPA.

 

The VW solenoid will have one threaded stud sticking out of its top, just like the OEM unit you're fixing to replace. The two wires plug to a dual blade type of connector that's mounted of said stud. It's a simple swap.

You'll have to remove it before you can unscrew the solenoid as the blades of the connector will run into the injection pump housing.


You'll figure it out when you get to it.

 

Part Number for Volkswagen: Bosch 0330001040

Part Number for Dodge: Bosch 0330001015

 

Ok thanks guys. I'm gonna try the repair first probably in a week then, if needed, I'll get the VW part. Wanadiesel told me to do the mod on the new one anyway so I may as well "practice" on the old one. LOL

 

The part number from VW is 028-130-135-B
List price is 53.75
I also got an oring, part number 068-130-139
list price 1.50

 

Hmm, I guess VW and Bosch don't share the same numbers, but the price is dead on. I pulled the PN's of the assembly's

 

Yep, the difference is that one is a manufacture number and one is VW. Most parts you find will have a production number on them that is different from the part number a retailer uses. I explain that to someone every week when they call my dealership.

 

Ok, let me ask ya this question. If I take the plunger out of the solenoid will the truck start everytime? I know I will have to manually shut the engine down but does the plunger have to be in the solenoid for it to start. I know it sounds like a stupid question but ya never know if it need to be in there to send a signal to something else to allow the fuel to flow.

The reason I ask is I can't get the part until Tuesday at best. I have to be on the road next week starting on Monday. The plunger is starting to give me problems starting the engine. As a backup if I have to take it out and run without it I want to be sure it will start. I know it won't stop.

thanks

 

Yes, you can remove the plunger from the solenoid and use the manual shut-down lever to get you by. Many do this.

NOTE: Don't connect the two blue wires to the solenoid coil if you're gonna run it without the plunger. Just connect the two wires together with a wire nut.

Running the coil without the plunger will result with the coil possibly overheating and possibly shorting out internally leaving you beside the road.

Hope this helps.

 

Good deal thanks. I will probably take the thing apart tomorrow and try the mod. If it doesn't work I'll just take the plunger out till I get back.

Thanks for the heads up on the two wires. I probably would have put them back on the solenoid.

 

Ok I got the solenoid apart and it looks like new. No signs of wear or tear at all. Now I do have problems shutting it off and starting. Not all the time but pretty frequently. What could be the problem? This morning as I moved the truck to work on it it wouldn't shut off. I gave the throttle a tap and she shutdown. Could it be the plunger is sticking? If so does that mean I should gut the solenoid and go with a cable shutdown or is there a repair for that like some kinda special lube?

Now before I go any further another question for ya. I think I know the answer but I'll ask. As I took the solenoid out of the fuel pump I dropped the internal parts. I think the only thing that would drop out is the plunger and the spring is this right? I got both back but is there anything more that I may have lost?

I'm gonna start something else till I hear what you guys have to say.

Thanks again guys.

 

Gary,

The plunger and spring are the only loose parts in there.

If your plunger doesn't have any plugs of rubber torn from it like that in the image, you should be OK as far as the solenoid goes.



As far as the plunger sticking, I'm not sure. I'd look at the barrel of the plunger for any signs of excessive wear though I'm not sure how it would present.
The plunger is completely immersed in diesel so I don't believe any lubricant would stay there and could quite possibly make things worse.

Since you need the truck tomorrow, go ahead and leave out the plunger and spring and use the shut-down lever for now to get you by.

Perhaps others can chime in with suggestions on how to proceed from here.

 

Thanks again Dave.

Yeah of course there are slight rub marks on the plunger sleeve but I would think that is normal. Not much just what you would suspect. The plunger is perfect with the concave part at the end. Not a mark on it. I am beginning to think it may be the electrical connection workin loose. I think I'm gonna connect both wires with a ring connector and attach it to the center post of the selenoid. It also could be it picked up a bit of trash in the fuel line somewhere. Maybe not likeley but possible. I'll clean it out and see what happens.

 

That is very odd. Try stretching the spring a little.

When the engine continues to run, do other things (like the radio) keep working?