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Fix your fuel cut-off solenoid

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Old Mar 23, 2007 | 01:43 AM
  #16  
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From: Laramie, Wyoming / Albany, Oregon
you guys are lucky

When my stop valve took a dump it was the stupid solenoid that crapped out, on my way home from work... Truck just puked.. Had to sit on the side of the road for two and a half friggin hours waiting for the tow truck to come. (For those familiar with Oregon, I was in Halsey, and they sent the tow truck from Independence, which a good 35-40 miles away) and that was AFTER they took an hour to realize the truck wasn't going to come from Corvallis.. At least it was free :-P Good old AAA...

Cost $250 to have the valve replaced, I was gonna just yank it out and run a cable but I couldn't get the **** valve out.. Throttle crap was in the way and I didn't feel like yankin it all off...
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Old Mar 23, 2007 | 06:12 PM
  #17  
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From: barrie ont canada
thats dumb to have a rubber shut of the diesel eats it away after a while and the little broken peace is in the pump still i know that cuz i went to floor it and cut out it did this 2 times and that was it i am afaid that the little peace is going to wreck the pimp .i just changed my shut off switch last week . dam i wish i new this b4
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Old Mar 24, 2007 | 10:13 AM
  #18  
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Where exactly is the fuel shutoff solenoid located?
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Old Mar 24, 2007 | 10:37 AM
  #19  
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From: Buies Creek, NC
Originally Posted by Oldschooldodge
Where exactly is the fuel shutoff solenoid located?
On the drivers side of the engine, to the rear of the fuel injection pump.

In the following image, it's down to the bottom right (has one or two 1/4" push on wire connections pending year built) ~



. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. Here (up)
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Old Mar 24, 2007 | 11:58 AM
  #20  
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From: Elgin, Texas
I thought that was it. Thanks for the help and the pic. I'm gonna start grinding.
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Old Mar 24, 2007 | 01:34 PM
  #21  
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From: Elgin, Texas
Whats the best way to get the solenoid out? What tool should I use? There's not much room to work.
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Old Mar 24, 2007 | 03:25 PM
  #22  
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From: Buies Creek, NC
Originally Posted by Oldschooldodge
Whats the best way to get the solenoid out? What tool should I use? There's not much room to work.
I have had good luck with a blunt chisel. Tap on the end of a wrench flat so as to push the solenoid on around. The fuel portion is sealed with an O-ring so you shouldn't have to tap it far to get past the O-rings grip. From there it's usually removed by hand.
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Old Mar 24, 2007 | 06:13 PM
  #23  
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From: New Holland, PA
It's a lot easier to get at the solenoid if you hack the excess metal off the top of the rear injection pump bracket. There's about 3/4" of metal up above the pump head that does nothing but get in the way. With that cut off, you can swing a wrench in there (somewhere around 1 1/16" or 27 mm I think).
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Old Mar 27, 2007 | 03:13 PM
  #24  
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From: barrie ont canada
k i tryed grinding the little peace of rubber and it still wont shut off. hav done something wrong .how far into the metal part can i go .and i re read that it and does it hav to hav a little tapper on it cuz i didnt do this so if i do this will it work then ?
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Old Mar 27, 2007 | 04:06 PM
  #25  
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From: barrie ont canada
ya i got it work i took my time did it just like it showed in the pic put the tapper on it put it in she works yes yes yes 4 how long dont know yet it only been an hour now. i thank u bc847 4 comeing up with a goood idea i will keep u posted on it . if it brakes agin or just on on how long it works . but i takes just a sec more longer to shut of off but i dont care
thank u agin
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Old Apr 19, 2007 | 08:20 PM
  #26  
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I have this same pump and solenoid on my 4BTA and I'm hoping this is the reason my rig won't start.
What does it do when it's working properly?
I've tried the manual kill lever and it kills the motor.
If the solenoid is bad and I gut it will it allow my engine to start(if everything else is working properly)?
Once solenoid is gutted and engine is running do I just need a manual choke cable to pull kill lever?
I'm new to BT motors and just learning. Thanks



By the way I've got a post going about how I bled my fuel system (Was running just fine then just quit.)
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Old Apr 20, 2007 | 10:35 AM
  #27  
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Any help on this topic?
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Old Apr 20, 2007 | 11:31 AM
  #28  
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From: Central Coast Ca
Originally Posted by Hammered Scout
I have this same pump and solenoid on my 4BTA and I'm hoping this is the reason my rig won't start.
What does it do when it's working properly?
I've tried the manual kill lever and it kills the motor.
If the solenoid is bad and I gut it will it allow my engine to start(if everything else is working properly)?
Once solenoid is gutted and engine is running do I just need a manual choke cable to pull kill lever?
I'm new to BT motors and just learning. Thanks



By the way I've got a post going about how I bled my fuel system (Was running just fine then just quit.)
Sometimes the wire going to the solenoid isn't making good contact. Check connections and verify power. If it still wont start you can gut the solenoid and it should start ( assuming that the problem is the solenoid). You can stop it with the manual lever or a pull cable.
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Old Jul 17, 2007 | 07:04 PM
  #29  
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Ok, mine just started not shutting off when I turn the ignition switch. Sometimes it will shutdown and sometimes not. Most of the time it shuts down. Can I just get a new plunger? The old one did last 15 years.

thanks
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Old Jul 17, 2007 | 07:25 PM
  #30  
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From: Buies Creek, NC
Originally Posted by thumbs
Can I just get a new plunger?
Unfortunately not that I'm aware of.

If you're gonna buy a new solenoid (complete), forget the dealer's $210 gold-plated edition and get one for a Volkswagen TDI (exact same thing) for about $40. Some can be found on Ebay for as little as $28.

Hope this helps.
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