I have tried to research this, but nothing comes up like it. (Or so I think)

When I get going the truck starts clunking like there is something in the tranny/t-case no acting right. I just replaced the intermediate driveline bearing, and it still does the clunking. It increases with speed, does not do it with the Clutch put in or when in neutral. If I am sitting still and rev the Motor it does not do it, only if going above 15-20 MPH. I disconnected the drivelines, and ran it through the gears, no noise. All the u-joints are good.


UMMMMMMM.......

I am thinking worn 205(gear noise); Clutch plate has a piece broken and hitting the bell housing. Or possibly the rear end.

It is a definite clunk, no grinding/whining/ect. Just Clunk, , clunk, , clunk.

The tranny mounts look worn but, I cannot see that making noise like this (I will be replacing the mounts when I pull the tranny to check the clutch ect.)

Thank you for any help you may have.

naw_t
93 5 speed, dually, 4x4

 

How about the front axle u-joints?

 

I had that sound just before my pinion shed all its teeth....it'd be worth it to pull the diff cover and inspect.

 

Well th front axles should not be spinning, no front drive line and hub in free wheel. Sound is coming from the tranny/t-case area as best I can tell.

I crawled back underneath and the rear output bearing, at the yoke, of the t-case has some slop in it. But I thought there was another bearing on the other end of the shaft for the yoke. Need a 205 case breakdown..


Thanks for the help so far.

 

Before I would start tearing the 205 apart, I would put it on a chasis lift just off the ground and start it and put it in gear. Then I would crawl under with a long screw driver or mechanic's stethoscope and do some serious listening being very careful not to put body parts in harms way. I just hate diving into something that doesn't need fixing.

 

Is it possible you've inadvertently put the drive-line back together and have the universal joints out of sync?

 

From my experiences, the U-joints being out of sync causes a really bad vibration (usually at highway speeds) instead of a definite "clunk". Maybe it would make a clunking sound if 1 or 2 of the U-joints were really shot?

 

Have you checked the rear diff yet? The driveshaft can carry a lot of noise up to the t/case and tranny. I'll have to sheepishly admit that after hearing the 'clunk' on my truck, I ASSumed the getrag was toast 'cause the previous owner said it was on its way out and the clunking appeared to be coming from that area...plus, I could FEEL the clunk in the stick. One truck down for a month and one rebuilt getrag later and the NOISE WAS STILL THERE! Pulled the diff cover and pinion pieces spilled all over the floor...I've never admitted that mistake on this forum, but if it helps one person avoid the same FUBAR, I guess it's worth the shame

 

Well I will definatley check things before I tear into things. I will check the rear end in the morning. I have had a pinion go in my cherokee and it wasa different sound, but then again it busted the pinion shaft in half, dang rock crawlin is hard on parts.

Thanks for the help I will post back in the morning with what Ihave found.

Also what fluids go in the tranny, t-case, and rearend on these.
(Just to make sure.)

Nawt

 

Trans gets 5W-30
Xfer case and axles get gear lube. All 3 will be fine with 80W-90, but if you're towing heavy you should run a heavier lube like an 85W-140 in the rear axle.

 

''Also what fluids go in the tranny, t-case, and rearend on these''

Tranny: Good quality 5w-30 motor oil (synthetic is good here)
t-case: Good 'ol 89-90
rear:I run syn. 80-90, but I hear 85-140 syn. is better for towing heavy/often

 

Man, I'm slow on the draw tonight....

 

I type with two fingers and a thumb if that makes you feel any slower.

 

I'll just try not to expect too much of myself in the beginning

 

There is no shame in that. Diagnosing drive train noise is part science and part luck.