finally done with my nv4500 conversion!
No the $130 is for all the parts segmented together. All were purchased threw Dodge: Shifter handle, ****, finisher, nut, 5 qrts NV4500 oil, and 2 tubes of permatex gasket maker. The oil is $15 a qrt. But dont be cheap on it. I read alot of horror stories when people used different brands. Even well known brands like RP and Amsoil. The mopar and the same stuff from a Chevy dealer is the only one approved by the manufacturer.
No the $130 is for all the parts segmented together. All were purchased threw Dodge: Shifter handle, ****, finisher, nut, 5 qrts NV4500 oil, and 2 tubes of permatex gasket maker. The oil is $15 a qrt. But dont be cheap on it. I read alot of horror stories when people used different brands. Even well known brands like RP and Amsoil. The mopar and the same stuff from a Chevy dealer is the only one approved by the manufacturer.
roxxx I hate to break it to you but unless someone else cut it already im pretty sure all the retainers come from the manufacturer too long. Its not bad to do it. If the tranny is used I would order a new seal for it, if its a fresh rebuild I would just be carefull taking it off the tranny. The machine shop I took it to put it on a lathe and cut it true and straight. He got it to within .0012" of where AA recommended. Plus he put the slight tapper on the inside and outside edges.
Pulltilbroke: I read a couple of the threads on the second gen furoms and it seemed most people who used different oils had issues. Maybe it was just bad luck. I decided not to test fate. Since it seems Murphy has it out for me
Thanks for the measurments.
Pulltilbroke: I read a couple of the threads on the second gen furoms and it seemed most people who used different oils had issues. Maybe it was just bad luck. I decided not to test fate. Since it seems Murphy has it out for me
Thanks for the measurments.
roxxx I hate to break it to you but unless someone else cut it already im pretty sure all the retainers come from the manufacturer too long. Its not bad to do it. If the tranny is used I would order a new seal for it, if its a fresh rebuild I would just be carefull taking it off the tranny. The machine shop I took it to put it on a lathe and cut it true and straight. He got it to within .0012" of where AA recommended. Plus he put the slight tapper on the inside and outside edges.
Pulltilbroke: I read a couple of the threads on the second gen furoms and it seemed most people who used different oils had issues. Maybe it was just bad luck. I decided not to test fate. Since it seems Murphy has it out for me
Thanks for the measurments.
Pulltilbroke: I read a couple of the threads on the second gen furoms and it seemed most people who used different oils had issues. Maybe it was just bad luck. I decided not to test fate. Since it seems Murphy has it out for me
Thanks for the measurments.
The lathe they used is huge. It was longer than my truck. I think it had 4 mounting points. Jaw like clamps, they look like they opened up big enough to put a basketball or maybe bigger in it. Thats what took the longest. Him getting it straight and true. Once he had it where he wanted it it only took him 10 min to cut it. Deffinitely better than using a hacksaw as in AA instructions.
www.polybushings.com for trans mounts
Unless you know where a parts truck is currently located I have to beg to differ! If you count the motor plate, bell, fork, slave, starter, and not to mention you still have to make up your own tranny mount to the cross member. And make up your own transfer case shifter braket/hookup! Your way more than I spent! I got lucky and found a used (in perfect shape AA bell! And ordered the rest from AA new. I was able to use my stock starter, motor plate, and slave! You can do this swap eitherway. But in my own opinion the AA bell makes the install alot easier and cheaper! I got lucky and found a brand new tranny. Thats why I had to buy a shifter and stuff. If you have a used one you probably would get it!
www.polybushings.com for trans mounts
Unless you know where a parts truck is currently located I have to beg to differ! If you count the motor plate, bell, fork, slave, starter, and not to mention you still have to make up your own tranny mount to the cross member. And make up your own transfer case shifter braket/hookup! Your way more than I spent! I got lucky and found a used (in perfect shape AA bell! And ordered the rest from AA new. I was able to use my stock starter, motor plate, and slave! You can do this swap eitherway. But in my own opinion the AA bell makes the install alot easier and cheaper! I got lucky and found a brand new tranny. Thats why I had to buy a shifter and stuff. If you have a used one you probably would get it!
Freight train - thanks for posting these pics of your conversion. Getting ready to remove my Getrag and install the Nv4500 in the D350 crew cab. It looks like I'll not have clearance problems with my bench seat at all, something that concerned me after seeing the shorter NV shifter and it's more rearward located shift tower.
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