Factory hubs vs after-market?
I will say that the factory manual lockouts, on the son's truck, are sure different than anything I had ever messed with before.
To my way of thinking, it would be pretty easy for the front axles to dis-engage themselves, if the going got a little rough.
Their function is completely opposite to the tried and true Spicer hubs on my half-a-million-mile 1978 K-20 Chevy.
With the Spicers, actuating the hub-handle UN-locks the axle from the hub; remove the locker and the hub locks itself.
On the Dodge, actuating the hub-handle LOCKs the axle to the hub; without the locker, the hub just free-wheels.
It may be bull-stout; but, it is sort of a flimsy looking set-up, to me.
To my way of thinking, it would be pretty easy for the front axles to dis-engage themselves, if the going got a little rough.
Their function is completely opposite to the tried and true Spicer hubs on my half-a-million-mile 1978 K-20 Chevy.
With the Spicers, actuating the hub-handle UN-locks the axle from the hub; remove the locker and the hub locks itself.
On the Dodge, actuating the hub-handle LOCKs the axle to the hub; without the locker, the hub just free-wheels.
It may be bull-stout; but, it is sort of a flimsy looking set-up, to me.
I am pretty sure the factory hubs are made by Warn. I just put a new set of Warns on my truck for cosmetic reasons and they are identical to the factory ones I took off. If I were to do it all over again I would have bought the Warn premium hubs instead.
So, there are no problems with OE units? They don't disengage in reverse, or break when you're wheeling (within reason), Is there a better upgrade? If so, where do I go? Are the factory's water tight?
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I go out wheeling alot and no matter how strong or water proof you should remove and inspect and lube anyway after wheeling. Last time out i lost my brakes. I had to flatten my left rear brake line to gain brake to make it home. Preventitive maintanence is key!!!
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