explain this one to me
explain this one to me
Ive been having unending brake problems with my truck, see several previous threads by me.
I decided to mess around with the truck one day and started capping and plugging brake lines to see if i could narrow down my problems. Those problems being: low brake pedal, hissing noise, pedal randomly going all the way to the floor with no braking action, so on so forth.
Anyways, since i ALWAYS had air hissing out when i bled my brakes of the drivers front bleed screw, i plugged the "splitter hose" that splits the fuild flow to each side of the front end on the side that feeds the drivers front. SO in theory, i am running one front brake and both rears. Anyways, the truck now has great brakes, except for the fact that the truck obviously pulls to the pass. side when braking.
I replaced the hard steel line, the rubber hose, and thew caliper on the drivers side front with all new parts. that means everything fromn the splitter hose to the bleed screw is all new. THE PROBLEM IS STILL THERE! I bled the brakles fully twice, still have basically no pedal. Replugged the drivers side of the splitter, brakes work fine agian
sHINE SOME LIGHT ON THIS FOR ME PLEASE.
I decided to mess around with the truck one day and started capping and plugging brake lines to see if i could narrow down my problems. Those problems being: low brake pedal, hissing noise, pedal randomly going all the way to the floor with no braking action, so on so forth.
Anyways, since i ALWAYS had air hissing out when i bled my brakes of the drivers front bleed screw, i plugged the "splitter hose" that splits the fuild flow to each side of the front end on the side that feeds the drivers front. SO in theory, i am running one front brake and both rears. Anyways, the truck now has great brakes, except for the fact that the truck obviously pulls to the pass. side when braking.
I replaced the hard steel line, the rubber hose, and thew caliper on the drivers side front with all new parts. that means everything fromn the splitter hose to the bleed screw is all new. THE PROBLEM IS STILL THERE! I bled the brakles fully twice, still have basically no pedal. Replugged the drivers side of the splitter, brakes work fine agian
sHINE SOME LIGHT ON THIS FOR ME PLEASE.
had problem getting good pedal on mine for cupple years ,nomatter what i did, then found bleader on fraim rail drivers side near rear end. re bled everything starting with l-r thrn r-r thrn center thrn l-f then r-f , no problems since.
dont know if that helps or not, hope it does.
I know chasing a problem like that will thin your hair out !
well at least thats what you feel like ,
dont we`ve all been there !
Old Dog
dont know if that helps or not, hope it does.
I know chasing a problem like that will thin your hair out !
well at least thats what you feel like ,dont we`ve all been there !
Old Dog
after doing some work on my system (rwal is now gone) bleeding the rear drivers seemed to keep pushing air out. the master was properly bench bled and all that. i don't get it either... where the heck is the air coming from?
I use a little check valve bleeder which has a line I put in a good sized jar. I do the farthest wheel first, RR then LR, LF RF. I hook up the bleeder by sliding it over the stem of the bleed screw and open it up. Then I top off the MC and start pumping. I pump fluid through each wheel until I see clear fluid coming out. I like to completely flush the system regularly whether there is air or not.
You can usually completely flush the lines with about 1 large bottle of fluid. Then I'd throw that bottle away since it draws moisture. It helps a bunch to have the check valve even if you have a helper cause you don't need to close the bleeder each time the pedal is released. If you don't close the valve when the pedal is released you can get air sucked back into the system.
The check-valved system can be bought for a few bucks and it's worth 10 times what it cost in hassle alone. You can make one out of the cheap boost controller by just hooking it to the bleeder nipple with a short piece of hose. Use the end which would normally go to the manifold. If you don't want fluid on your driveway, hook the other end of the boost controller to a length of clear plastic line so you can see what comes out. Unscrew the spring pressure on the ball to it's lowest seting and it will work just great for a check valve.
Edwin
You can usually completely flush the lines with about 1 large bottle of fluid. Then I'd throw that bottle away since it draws moisture. It helps a bunch to have the check valve even if you have a helper cause you don't need to close the bleeder each time the pedal is released. If you don't close the valve when the pedal is released you can get air sucked back into the system.
The check-valved system can be bought for a few bucks and it's worth 10 times what it cost in hassle alone. You can make one out of the cheap boost controller by just hooking it to the bleeder nipple with a short piece of hose. Use the end which would normally go to the manifold. If you don't want fluid on your driveway, hook the other end of the boost controller to a length of clear plastic line so you can see what comes out. Unscrew the spring pressure on the ball to it's lowest seting and it will work just great for a check valve.
Edwin
Originally Posted by edwinsmith
I use a little check valve bleeder which has a line I put in a good sized jar. I do the farthest wheel first, RR then LR, LF RF. I hook up the bleeder by sliding it over the stem of the bleed screw and open it up. Then I top off the MC and start pumping. I pump fluid through each wheel until I see clear fluid coming out. I like to completely flush the system regularly whether there is air or not.
You can usually completely flush the lines with about 1 large bottle of fluid. Then I'd throw that bottle away since it draws moisture. It helps a bunch to have the check valve even if you have a helper cause you don't need to close the bleeder each time the pedal is released. If you don't close the valve when the pedal is released you can get air sucked back into the system.
The check-valved system can be bought for a few bucks and it's worth 10 times what it cost in hassle alone. You can make one out of the cheap boost controller by just hooking it to the bleeder nipple with a short piece of hose. Use the end which would normally go to the manifold. If you don't want fluid on your driveway, hook the other end of the boost controller to a length of clear plastic line so you can see what comes out. Unscrew the spring pressure on the ball to it's lowest seting and it will work just great for a check valve.
Edwin
You can usually completely flush the lines with about 1 large bottle of fluid. Then I'd throw that bottle away since it draws moisture. It helps a bunch to have the check valve even if you have a helper cause you don't need to close the bleeder each time the pedal is released. If you don't close the valve when the pedal is released you can get air sucked back into the system.
The check-valved system can be bought for a few bucks and it's worth 10 times what it cost in hassle alone. You can make one out of the cheap boost controller by just hooking it to the bleeder nipple with a short piece of hose. Use the end which would normally go to the manifold. If you don't want fluid on your driveway, hook the other end of the boost controller to a length of clear plastic line so you can see what comes out. Unscrew the spring pressure on the ball to it's lowest seting and it will work just great for a check valve.
Edwin
sound like a tool that i could us
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Originally Posted by flashgordon
Did you just edit you coment or did i just skim right over it 
Sorry need to let some air out of my head.
...disreguard that ?
How makes it and were did you get it!

Sorry need to let some air out of my head.
...disreguard that ? How makes it and were did you get it!
It was in a plastic bag and was labeled brake bleeder.
Ask around or just buy one of the cheap boost controllers in my first post. You may also wish to replace the angled hose barb with a new one since the one it comes with has a tiny bleed hole drilled in it.
Edwin
Originally Posted by EClancy
Ive been having unending brake problems with my truck, see several previous threads by me.
I decided to mess around with the truck one day and started capping and plugging brake lines to see if i could narrow down my problems. Those problems being: low brake pedal, hissing noise, pedal randomly going all the way to the floor with no braking action, so on so forth.
Anyways, since i ALWAYS had air hissing out when i bled my brakes of the drivers front bleed screw, i plugged the "splitter hose" that splits the fuild flow to each side of the front end on the side that feeds the drivers front. SO in theory, i am running one front brake and both rears. Anyways, the truck now has great brakes, except for the fact that the truck obviously pulls to the pass. side when braking.
I replaced the hard steel line, the rubber hose, and thew caliper on the drivers side front with all new parts. that means everything fromn the splitter hose to the bleed screw is all new. THE PROBLEM IS STILL THERE! I bled the brakles fully twice, still have basically no pedal. Replugged the drivers side of the splitter, brakes work fine agian
sHINE SOME LIGHT ON THIS FOR ME PLEASE.
I decided to mess around with the truck one day and started capping and plugging brake lines to see if i could narrow down my problems. Those problems being: low brake pedal, hissing noise, pedal randomly going all the way to the floor with no braking action, so on so forth.
Anyways, since i ALWAYS had air hissing out when i bled my brakes of the drivers front bleed screw, i plugged the "splitter hose" that splits the fuild flow to each side of the front end on the side that feeds the drivers front. SO in theory, i am running one front brake and both rears. Anyways, the truck now has great brakes, except for the fact that the truck obviously pulls to the pass. side when braking.
I replaced the hard steel line, the rubber hose, and thew caliper on the drivers side front with all new parts. that means everything fromn the splitter hose to the bleed screw is all new. THE PROBLEM IS STILL THERE! I bled the brakles fully twice, still have basically no pedal. Replugged the drivers side of the splitter, brakes work fine agian
sHINE SOME LIGHT ON THIS FOR ME PLEASE.
So has any body fixed this probem(unable to get the air out of the drivers side caliper??)
My 91 has this problem allso, the brake work pritty good but with my trailer on, and in a panic stop the right front tire just locks and slided tell the hi pressure of my panic foot release
I have bleed and bleed the brakes but the air still hiss out of the right front brake bleeder.
I haven't replaced the calipers or any thing but it just seam strange, to me, that air can get in someplace were pressure can't get out!

the coment about the fluid under the dust seal is a good thought but Eclancy has replace it all and theres still air!?
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RJMontana
Performance and Accessories 2nd gen only
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Mar 21, 2003 11:20 PM







