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Exhaust Manifold Gasket replacement questions

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Old Apr 12, 2008 | 05:28 AM
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From: Lyndon KS
Exhaust Manifold Gasket replacement questions

I have a large exhaust leak at cylinder one, its obvious the manifold gasket is completley gone and needs replaced. Since I got my pyro delivered friday, i figured it would be easiest to pull the manifold, drill/tap for the thermocoupler while its off and replace the gasket...

couple questions tho..
how easy is it to break off a rusty exhaust manifold stud? they dont look too sturdy and if its likely one will break( causing me major problems) then I am tempted to just live with the leak...

Is there anything tricky about removing the turbine/turbo from the manifold?
it looks pretty straight forward..

BTW, my gauge is used and didnt come with install instructions, anybody know what size thermocouple Autometer uses? i am guessing it is 1/4 looking at it..
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Old Apr 12, 2008 | 05:43 AM
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From: Lyndon KS
Originally Posted by Chrisreyn
BTW, my gauge is used and didnt come with install instructions, anybody know what size thermocouple Autometer uses? i am guessing it is 1/4 looking at it..
disregard, foudn the instructions online ( its 1/8th BTW)
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Old Apr 12, 2008 | 09:13 AM
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From: IN
1/8" NPT=5/16 drill bit. I had to heat the ears on the head alittle bit and saturate in PB before they would come out. I broke 2 off and had to weld a nut on them. With 20 seconds of heat from the torch and a good shot of PB (after the flame was removed of course) the rest of them back out fine.
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Old Apr 12, 2008 | 12:06 PM
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also on the bolts you could try to WD40 them awhile before you want to remove them to break free the rust, mine all came out fine, welding a nut on where you break off the bolt works well but get a good ground for the welder right where you are welding you don't want it to arc thru your engine.

the turbo comes off easy enough if you can get the bolts loose, the bottom one at the center section of the turbo is the hardest i think, make sure you have the gasket for the oil drain on the turbo before you remove it or silicone if you feel comfortable, i've done it.
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Old Apr 12, 2008 | 01:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Alwaysworking
the turbo comes off easy enough if you can get the bolts loose, the bottom one at the center section of the turbo is the hardest i think, make sure you have the gasket for the oil drain on the turbo before you remove it or silicone if you feel comfortable, i've done it.
I usually just undo the turbo-to-manifold nuts, then push the turbo away from the manifold enough to slip out the manifold and leave the turbo sitting there without disconnecting the oil lines. Never had a problem this way.
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Old Apr 12, 2008 | 02:39 PM
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From: Lyndon KS
Originally Posted by torquefan
I usually just undo the turbo-to-manifold nuts, then push the turbo away from the manifold enough to slip out the manifold and leave the turbo sitting there without disconnecting the oil lines. Never had a problem this way.
Thats what I was visualizing doing, the downpipe will suppoort the turbo wont it?
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Old Apr 12, 2008 | 04:45 PM
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From: Dixon, IL
I wouldn't trust the DP to hold the turbo by itself.

I broke the bolts loose with a Air hammer driver. Just make sure to get a 6" extension (rated for the abuse) to get to the ones around where the turbo mounts. I hope I made sense.
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Old Apr 12, 2008 | 04:48 PM
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From: Lyndon KS
Originally Posted by dieselJon
I wouldn't trust the DP to hold the turbo by itself.

I broke the bolts loose with a Air hammer driver. Just make sure to get a 6" extension (rated for the abuse) to get to the ones around where the turbo mounts. I hope I made sense.
Ok, thanks!
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Old Apr 12, 2008 | 05:20 PM
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From: Keizer, oregon
i was thinking because you were going to pull the whole thing to drill and tap it for the pyro and not get shavings in the turbo
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Old Apr 12, 2008 | 11:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Chrisreyn
Thats what I was visualizing doing, the downpipe will suppoort the turbo wont it?
I've done many like that, whether replacing the manifold or removing the cyl. head, and never had one cause a problem or feel like it was stressing the downpipe. First gens usually have the downpipe supported by the bell housing hanger, so it's supported well.
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Old Apr 16, 2008 | 10:31 AM
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From: Lyndon KS
Originally Posted by Alwaysworking
i was thinking because you were going to pull the whole thing to drill and tap it for the pyro and not get shavings in the turbo
Well, thats gonna be a "plus" to removing it, but mainly due to replacing the manifold gasket
Originally Posted by torquefan
I've done many like that, whether replacing the manifold or removing the cyl. head, and never had one cause a problem or feel like it was stressing the downpipe. First gens usually have the downpipe supported by the bell housing hanger, so it's supported well.
I think I will hang it from a piece of wire from teh hood just to be safe...

This project is on hold, I found I didnt receive the manifold/thermocoupler bushig nwith the gauge..
called Autometer and even tho i bought it used, they are sending me one FREE....yea!

Once it gets here, I will get started on this
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