Eliminating the stock tranny/engine heat exchanger
02-12-2010, 09:25 AM
#31
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My injection pump is only mildly turned up. For those of you with turned up pumps and 5-speeds what sort of temps do you see? If you were to keep it full out, by that I mean the pyro right at 1200* or so, for 10 or 20 minutes (or more) would your cooling system be able to disperse enough heat to keep your engine cool? Anybody have experiences with this scenario with an automatic? I know that mine will not!
One question to you, how do you have your under-bed cooler plumbed? With the d250 stock auto, since I plumbed the B&M 1st then HE then front cooler then pan, I can keep tranny temps down to ~210deg coming out of the tranny, before the cooler. That is with an overhead camper pulling a 14ft atv trailer, so not as heavy as you are.
02-12-2010, 09:49 AM
#32
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One question to you, how do you have your under-bed cooler plumbed? With the d250 stock auto, since I plumbed the B&M 1st then HE then front cooler then pan, I can keep tranny temps down to ~210deg coming out of the tranny, before the cooler. That is with an overhead camper pulling a 14ft atv trailer, so not as heavy as you are.
02-12-2010, 05:33 PM
#35
1st Generation Admin
Because I was installing twins and didn't want to loose the exchanger, I made a funny looking bracket . . .
Nailed the heat exchanger to one side . . .
And a remote trans fluid filter on the other . . .
Like this . . .
I installed it next to the transmission, inside the frame rail, between the trans crossmember and the rear skid-plate mount . . .
Here's another view . . .
That location is just forward of my remote trans fluid cooler. I ended-up replacing all the trans fluid plumbing to hook it all up so it works well. There's an easily reachable 1/4th turn ball-valve to turn off the engine coolant when racing.
It was a pain in the neck, but It works well and is reliable yet easily serviceable.
Nailed the heat exchanger to one side . . .
And a remote trans fluid filter on the other . . .
Like this . . .
I installed it next to the transmission, inside the frame rail, between the trans crossmember and the rear skid-plate mount . . .
Here's another view . . .
That location is just forward of my remote trans fluid cooler. I ended-up replacing all the trans fluid plumbing to hook it all up so it works well. There's an easily reachable 1/4th turn ball-valve to turn off the engine coolant when racing.
It was a pain in the neck, but It works well and is reliable yet easily serviceable.
02-12-2010, 07:31 PM
#36
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02-15-2010, 09:21 PM
#39
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Thanks for the kind words folks. 
With the exception of the transmission filter, my mess is plumbed stock/OEM.
In my installation, all transmission fluid plumbing is AN8 hose and fittings (1/2" ID).
NOTE: The factory also has bypass tubes just as the trans fluid lines go into/out of the cooler at the radiator. (It's an automatic temperature control via thermodynamics). Hot fluid flows predominantly through the cooler in the summer. During the winter, the fluid in the cooler gets thicker forcing more to bypass the cooler via the bypass tubes. Pretty slick!
The engine coolant plumbing for the heat exchanger would be stock in connection.
> In my case however, the hot engine coolant source is from the rear of the cylinder bank via a coolant adjunct intended to supply a factory optional air compressor (in place of our power steering pump / vacuum pump). The coolant return from the exchanger goes to the stock/OEM return port right there at the water pump's inlet.
Further, for racing purposes, I have a quarter-turn ball-valve installed right there under the heat exchanger so as to turn off the hot coolant supply. I have found, in my mess, that 170*F trans fluid is 1 tenth of a second slower than 120*F trans fluid in the eighth mile.
(Transmission) > - - - > (Filter)* > - - - > (Heat Exchanger) -V
^ < - - - < (Cooler under Bed) < - - - < (Cooler at Radiator) <
* Thermostatic switches (2) for the Overdrive and the Fan assisted cooler under the bed.
^ < - - - < (Cooler under Bed) < - - - < (Cooler at Radiator) <
* Thermostatic switches (2) for the Overdrive and the Fan assisted cooler under the bed.
NOTE: The factory also has bypass tubes just as the trans fluid lines go into/out of the cooler at the radiator. (It's an automatic temperature control via thermodynamics). Hot fluid flows predominantly through the cooler in the summer. During the winter, the fluid in the cooler gets thicker forcing more to bypass the cooler via the bypass tubes. Pretty slick!
The engine coolant plumbing for the heat exchanger would be stock in connection.
> In my case however, the hot engine coolant source is from the rear of the cylinder bank via a coolant adjunct intended to supply a factory optional air compressor (in place of our power steering pump / vacuum pump). The coolant return from the exchanger goes to the stock/OEM return port right there at the water pump's inlet.
Further, for racing purposes, I have a quarter-turn ball-valve installed right there under the heat exchanger so as to turn off the hot coolant supply. I have found, in my mess, that 170*F trans fluid is 1 tenth of a second slower than 120*F trans fluid in the eighth mile.
02-16-2010, 11:04 AM
#40
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11-10-2014, 11:12 AM
#41
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heat exchangher tank
where do i find lines that go from this tank thats on side of the block.. the lines i need go from tank to block i need both can not find any place
07-17-2015, 04:41 PM
#43
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Your oil is running un controlled (no thermostat) Not only will the water to oil cooler/heater knock out temperature nicely at high temps, it will keep the oil at a more constant temperature. IDK about you guys, but my truck acts pretty weird when I first take off with it when the tranny fluid is too cold. It has a somewhat constant temperature medium running through it at normal operating perameters (the coolant, which IS regulated via the thermostat).
Instead of getting rid of it and adding an extra cooler... why don't you JUST add an extra cooler? I have heard of no water to oil contamination issues with the cooler thus far in my travels and reading. If so, it would be easy to repair anyway.
Instead of getting rid of it and adding an extra cooler... why don't you JUST add an extra cooler? I have heard of no water to oil contamination issues with the cooler thus far in my travels and reading. If so, it would be easy to repair anyway.
07-19-2015, 11:44 AM
#44
Registered User
07-19-2015, 12:21 PM
#45
Registered User
Or replace the leaking heat exchanger.
I have some used ones in my shop, if you need one.
David's remote mount for the cooler and extra filter is slick!
I have some used ones in my shop, if you need one.
David's remote mount for the cooler and extra filter is slick!