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Eliminating the stock tranny/engine heat exchanger

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Old Feb 12, 2010 | 09:25 AM
  #31  
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From: Golden, Colorado
Originally Posted by Tuckerdee
My injection pump is only mildly turned up. For those of you with turned up pumps and 5-speeds what sort of temps do you see? If you were to keep it full out, by that I mean the pyro right at 1200* or so, for 10 or 20 minutes (or more) would your cooling system be able to disperse enough heat to keep your engine cool? Anybody have experiences with this scenario with an automatic? I know that mine will not!
To answer this question, with the w250 5sp, pulling vail pass grossing ~15k and I sustain 1200deg exhaust temps in 4th gear, I have to about half way up back out and drop to 3rd as the engine temp gets to 220deg and more. So the radiator isn't big enough. Now that was with a hybrid turbo, I have a feeling if I were to pull that pass now with the full HX-40 I would do much better. One of these days i'll have to drag something over a pass and see what happens.

One question to you, how do you have your under-bed cooler plumbed? With the d250 stock auto, since I plumbed the B&M 1st then HE then front cooler then pan, I can keep tranny temps down to ~210deg coming out of the tranny, before the cooler. That is with an overhead camper pulling a 14ft atv trailer, so not as heavy as you are.
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Old Feb 12, 2010 | 09:49 AM
  #32  
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From: Brighton, CO
Originally Posted by apwatson50
One question to you, how do you have your under-bed cooler plumbed? With the d250 stock auto, since I plumbed the B&M 1st then HE then front cooler then pan, I can keep tranny temps down to ~210deg coming out of the tranny, before the cooler. That is with an overhead camper pulling a 14ft atv trailer, so not as heavy as you are.
My cooler gets the fluid just before it dumps back into the pan. At the time, I thought my sloppy converter was the major part of my hot engine problems. That is how it was plumbed stock I believe. And I figured, that way, the cooler could scrub off any extra heat that the HE and cooler in the grill didn't get. Now, maybe, it may be better to have it the way yours is. That way, the engine gets less heat from the transmission.
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Old Feb 12, 2010 | 10:13 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Tuckerdee
That way, the engine gets less heat from the transmission.
My thoughts and reasoning exactly.
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Old Feb 12, 2010 | 10:44 AM
  #34  
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From: Raleigh, NC
Interesting read, I think all the twin turbo guys loose theirs?
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Old Feb 12, 2010 | 05:33 PM
  #35  
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From: Buies Creek, NC
Originally Posted by Free89W350
David, Didn't you move yours. If so where and how hard was it.
Because I was installing twins and didn't want to loose the exchanger, I made a funny looking bracket . . .

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Nailed the heat exchanger to one side . . .

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And a remote trans fluid filter on the other . . .

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Like this . . .

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I installed it next to the transmission, inside the frame rail, between the trans crossmember and the rear skid-plate mount . . .

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Here's another view . . .

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That location is just forward of my remote trans fluid cooler. I ended-up replacing all the trans fluid plumbing to hook it all up so it works well. There's an easily reachable 1/4th turn ball-valve to turn off the engine coolant when racing.

It was a pain in the neck, but It works well and is reliable yet easily serviceable.
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Old Feb 12, 2010 | 07:31 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by BC847
It was a pain in the neck, but It works well and is reliable yet easily serviceable.
That looks good. I hate to ask this do you think you might be able to sketch out the routing for the plumbing with all the coolers and heat exchanger hooked up pretty please.
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Old Feb 13, 2010 | 09:09 PM
  #37  
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From: Claymont, Del and Horsham, PA
looks like something you'd see on an airplane
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Old Feb 14, 2010 | 02:14 PM
  #38  
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From: New Holland, PA
BC's truck isn't just built, it is engineered.
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Old Feb 15, 2010 | 09:21 PM
  #39  
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From: Buies Creek, NC
Thanks for the kind words folks.


Originally Posted by Free89W350
That looks good. I hate to ask this do you think you might be able to sketch out the routing for the plumbing with all the coolers and heat exchanger hooked up pretty please.
With the exception of the transmission filter, my mess is plumbed stock/OEM.

(Transmission) > - - - > (Filter)* > - - - > (Heat Exchanger) -V
^ < - - - < (Cooler under Bed) < - - - < (Cooler at Radiator) <


* Thermostatic switches (2) for the Overdrive and the Fan assisted cooler under the bed.
In my installation, all transmission fluid plumbing is AN8 hose and fittings (1/2" ID).

NOTE: The factory also has bypass tubes just as the trans fluid lines go into/out of the cooler at the radiator. (It's an automatic temperature control via thermodynamics). Hot fluid flows predominantly through the cooler in the summer. During the winter, the fluid in the cooler gets thicker forcing more to bypass the cooler via the bypass tubes. Pretty slick!



The engine coolant plumbing for the heat exchanger would be stock in connection.

> In my case however, the hot engine coolant source is from the rear of the cylinder bank via a coolant adjunct intended to supply a factory optional air compressor (in place of our power steering pump / vacuum pump). The coolant return from the exchanger goes to the stock/OEM return port right there at the water pump's inlet.
Further, for racing purposes, I have a quarter-turn ball-valve installed right there under the heat exchanger so as to turn off the hot coolant supply. I have found, in my mess, that 170*F trans fluid is 1 tenth of a second slower than 120*F trans fluid in the eighth mile.

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Old Feb 16, 2010 | 11:04 AM
  #40  
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From: Englewood, TN
Question

Originally Posted by BC847

... the hot engine coolant source is from the rear of the cylinder bank via a coolant adjunct intended to supply a factory optional air compressor (in place of our power steering pump / vacuum pump).
David:

Can you elaborate on this?

Thanks,
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Old Nov 10, 2014 | 11:12 AM
  #41  
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From: new york
heat exchangher tank

where do i find lines that go from this tank thats on side of the block.. the lines i need go from tank to block i need both can not find any place
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Old Nov 14, 2014 | 04:07 PM
  #42  
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From: Virginia
Subscribed, Very nicely done..
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Old Jul 17, 2015 | 04:41 PM
  #43  
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From: hillman mi
Originally Posted by dzl_damon
Your oil is running un controlled (no thermostat) Not only will the water to oil cooler/heater knock out temperature nicely at high temps, it will keep the oil at a more constant temperature. IDK about you guys, but my truck acts pretty weird when I first take off with it when the tranny fluid is too cold. It has a somewhat constant temperature medium running through it at normal operating perameters (the coolant, which IS regulated via the thermostat).

Instead of getting rid of it and adding an extra cooler... why don't you JUST add an extra cooler? I have heard of no water to oil contamination issues with the cooler thus far in my travels and reading. If so, it would be easy to repair anyway.
What about in my case my heat exchanger is leaking coolant into my transmission im pretty sure it would better to delete it that way I don't have to buy a 2,000 transmission
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Old Jul 19, 2015 | 11:44 AM
  #44  
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From: Tulsa, OK
Originally Posted by j_shay
What about in my case my heat exchanger is leaking coolant into my transmission im pretty sure it would better to delete it that way I don't have to buy a 2,000 transmission
I would delete it now in that case.
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Old Jul 19, 2015 | 12:21 PM
  #45  
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From: vermont
Or replace the leaking heat exchanger.
I have some used ones in my shop, if you need one.

David's remote mount for the cooler and extra filter is slick!
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