Thinking about trying to shoehorn this: http://m.oreillyauto.com/mt/www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/MHT1/431359/01386.oap?year=2004&make=Ford&model=E-250&vi=1427600&ck=Search_radiator_1427600_4450&key word=radiator
into my 91.5. It's similar in size to a 7.3 sd radiator just 5 or so inches shorter. It would take a bit of work to wrestle in place but I think it should be well worth it. What's your thoughts guys? It's much larger than factory and alum and good bit cheaper what's not to like.

 

Your link does not work.

How much are they asking for this rad? You can get a new rad for a couple hundred, and it will cool like the OEM unit. So will all the fab work involved net you any better cooling do you think...especially if you no longer have the use of a fan shroud.

And then what about added costs of trying to find rad hoses to work with the new rad....and sure a few other things that are unforseen.

I have no problem with someone thinking outside the box...but wy when there is relatively cheap replacement parts available.

 

That rad is almost 2 feet tall

The thing with those Fords is the rad drops down and fits between the frame rails. I think our front crossmember gets in the way.

'90s Chev rad is shorter and wider for similar price and alum construction.... might be an idea.

 

Put a 2ndgen rad and ic in there.

 

I put a zip code in the page offered by the link and got the radiator. What you should do is enter the o'reilly part number in a search engine, then cut and paste the URL of the radiator page. It should be a much shorter URL with no search terms in it except maybe the part number.

Back to the topic.
1. Shoehorn isn't the term, cobble, cram, or jam might be closer.
2. Look around on the web and you won't find much love for Murray radiators.

It was pricey, but I put a Mishimoto all aluminum radiator in mine. It makes the stock radiator look like a heater core. Drops in perfectly, and absolutely eliminates the cooling problem.

 

After doing some measuring it would be nearly 3" taller if you say it against the frame so no beuno... I would do second gen but talk about extra cost a cobbling together... If the mishimoto wast 700 I might go that route but if you read the specs they supply on there site it's virtually the same size as factory... So what makes it so special?

Right now I'm looking into universal single and triple pass aluminum all welds. Only problem is most come with 1.5 inlet 1.75 out... Anybody called one of these racing radiator guys to see how much extra they would want to put the appropriate hose connections on? I mean hell at 150-180 for a single pass I'm not to scared to fire the old dynasty and butcher a new core but it would be a lot easier to have them do it... Btw I'm trying my best to avoid the factory brass one... I know call me crazy but I much prefer aluminum radiators... Also my truck is auto but does NOT have a trans cooler in the rad and I don't plan on using one in the new setup(planning on a couple air to fluid coolers)

 

What's special about the Mishimoto is that it's all welded aluminum, heavy enough to take 50 psi test pressure (I think I remember). It's actually slightly thicker than stock. When I went to install it, it didn't quite clear. Upon investigation I found that the opening in the support was slightly bent, and it appeared the AC condenser and transmission cooler were pretty new. I suspect some poor deer's head had penetrated the grill and done some damage many years ago. The stock radiator fit, but I had to straighten things out a bit for the Mishimoto.

It out cools the stock radiator by a bunch. It also comes with a new radiator cap, slightly higher pressure than stock.

It drops in like it's at home.

 

j_martin, your comment in the current "gearing" thread more or less describes my truck(current setup and what I'm looking to accomplish with it towing wise.) All I'm trying to get at is that most of us can't afford a $700 radiator but would like the benefits of said radiator. I feel like most of us have enough skills to put a universal aluminum radiator that cost less than the "oem replacment" and is the same or larger size, and aluminum.

Here is wht I am looking into now(lets see if i can get the link job right this time):

Single pass:
www.summitracing.com/parts/bci-35004

same .08 thick all weld as mish rad, slightly wider core(no more overall) and a little shorter(about an inch)

double pass:
www.summitracing.com/parts/hre-34331rnf

a bit shorter then the single pas but the dual pass function of the rad should easily make up the dif. also the hose connections being on the same side should not pose cummins guys much problem do to the engine config.

and the last bit I'm going to leave tonight:
flexpvc.com/WaterFlowBasedOnPipeSize.shtml

I was a bit concerned about the radiator inlet/outlet being smaller on these universal radiators in regards to there flow capability. After reading several similar charts they all seem to have similar ratings for 1.5 pipe flow capacity at gravitational force(i.e. pump suction, which in this case is 1.75 but I wanted to know the smallest pipes capacity) which is around 2000 gph. pure diesel power and legs sell electric pumps for our 5.9's that flow 3000gph which makes me assume I should easily be okay with eh 1.5 and and 1.75 inlet/outlet and a stock pump(the electric pump is claimed to reduce pressure to prevent freeze plug blow out, i know i know smaller inlet more pressure.) Has anyone had problems blowing out 1st gen freeze plugs?

enough digging for one night...

 

I did what your thinking about. Put a generic alum rad in my non ic and also put a ps ic in. Turned out great. But had I been aware of the 2ndgen setup I would have done that. Eventually I will get around to it.

 

Commonmotion, does your radiator have the smaller inlet/outlet? How do you tow?

 

I decided to go with an aluminum radiator this past summer. After a little searching I bought a Griffin Aluminum radiator P/N GRI-5-592GG-BXX from Summit Racing which is a direct fit. It has 2 1&1/4" cross flow cooling rows, is thicker than the OEM radiator and is far superior in cooling than the OEM. rad. Cost delivered was $678.78. It cools better in summer and delivers warm air better than the stock setup in winter.

Bob

 

You get what you pay for. I'd rather lay out some cash and put in something good here at home that works well and keeps things cool, and thus prevents other problems, then pay through the nose in Timbucktu while carrying family and pulling 2 trailers.

 

It does have smaller inlet/outlets. I am sure its a generic sbc setup. I found a gates upper hose to allow use of the non ic outlet. Also found a better lower hose. Did calculations at the time as far as core cooling capacity and overall fluid capacity compared to stock non icand it was I think a multiple of three and some odd times greater. It kicks butt. And I never even got around to upgrading my blade or building a shroud. Two one inch rows, Its fully welded alum, polished tanks.(which I didn't ask for-but they sent it). Put a wekd bung on it for a draincock. I am sure its straight outa china. Paid about a buck and a quarter or fifty for it. That along with my seventy five buck psic. Got urethane part a and b, mixed up and molded my own isolators. Some straight dom and a 22.5° mandrel bend 3" alum for charge tubes. Rolled my own beads. Silicone intakes couplers and clamps. The hole thing came out very well with no problems whatsoever. There's a couple pics on one of these sites somewhere.

 

Gotta call bs on that last part. Its not going to come close to delivering warmer air in winter. That's not its job. an enhanced capacity radiator will never warm up as quick or really run as warm as a stock one in winter months especially. Its going to need a little help via a winter front. I have even removed my fan blade a couple winters.

 

I will call BS on both of your statements. The radiator shouldn't have any affect on how fast the engine warms up and what temperature it runs at (unless it is too small and overheats, then it only affects the temp. that the engine runs at). The thermostat takes care of those things.