Last weekend, I helped confedpirate install new bushings and pins on his new crewcab. The doors swung like new and closed well once we got them adjusted. Plan on adjusting your latch pin as well. It requires a large torx.

The older style hinges (seventies vintage) had no bushings and needed to be drilled to accept them. The bushings and pins wer off the rack at a local parts store.

 

In my distant memory I think I remember a thread somewhere...
Some machinist-type was rebuilding/redesigning these door hinges. You sent him a "core" and some money and he would return a "super-duper grease-fitting equipt dom-tube hinge.

For now, my NAPA bushings and pins are doing fine - but... anybody remember him?
Bob

 

I think it was "mysterman" and I believe he was one of the engineers that originally designed these trucks and he had the "super hinge" at one time. I don't know what happened to him now, but haven't heard anything in a while.

 

A fitting name if you haven't heard from him in a while.

Do new bushings and pins help the sagging? I can see daylight from the top front corner of the passenger door.

 

I'm thinking they would help the sagging. I picked up a '93 last night and the driver side sags ever so slightly- no light just yet.

Anyone that's done this have an opinion on how Teflon would work? I've got a bit of it and could turn a couple of bushings out. My question is would it stay put or not?

 

You could use a floor jack or a jack stand to hold up the door while the lower hinge is off.

 

Study the brass bushings. If you turned the teflon with a shoulder like the bushing has, it really can't go anywhere. Unless, or course it breaks. I do not know how brittle teflon is.

 

I need to get the bottom pin out. I have loosened the hinge bolts and beat on the the lower pin with threaded rod and hammer. It doesn't even pretend to budge.

The bottom of the original pin looks different than the replacement. instead of perfectly round, it has one flat side.

Looks like the head of the lower bushing has broke off and over time worked its way down to the bottom of the pin. As I was beating on it, I saw copper next to the pin.

My next thought is cut the pin in half with the sawzall.

Any other ideas?

 

I just went through this on my 93, using instructions from this very thread, which I found 2 weeks ago.
My bottom hinge pin would move about 1/8" and stop dead, no matter how hard I beat on it. I found the bottom hinge pin had been crimped a little, so there were, for lack of a better word, "ears" sticking out of the pin below the hinge. I took a die grinder to them, and a file, and removed the "ears" and the pin came right out.
After that, I used a helper to steady the door, sitting on jack stands, took the bolts out of the door on the top hinge, otherwise the pin won't come out due to the curvature of the door, used a punch to pop out the old bushings, the ones that wouldn't just fall out, and used the oil trick between my fingers, as mentioned above.

The door is tight as a drum now. I had to order new striker pins from Napa to replace the worn ones. they should be in tomorrow.

Chris

 

Boy I wish I would've known that about 6 months ago!! I put all new pins and bushings in and have a darn squeak on the passanger door and wd40 or lithium greese has stopped it... I will keep this in the memory bank for the next time!!