Hello all my first post.
I am doing a conversion of a 93 non ic into a 94 silverad heavy 1500.
Motor has sat for 2plus years. Have bleed injectors power to the fuel selonoid, but dosent even cough...ideas?
Mike

 

Gut the solenoid and try again. A snort of ether wouldn't hurt.

 

I did take the solenoid out and checked to make sure it ws working right, at the injectors when I cracked the I have fuel not sure how much pressure im supposed to see there, but I put the solenoid back in after I made sure it was working.

 

Take it back out, take the guts (spring and plunger) out and put the body back on and give it another try.

 

will do sorry for the terrible typing, only have one pinky not covered in grime.
Having problems with battery atm. appears my single heavy duty tractor battery is not going to suffice. Ok so assuming that this starts it, with the plunger stripped then I will need to either use the board on the turbo intake or move the little swing arm right below the throttle linkage to shut it off.
ps would having 12 to 15 psi before the stock lift pump cause me problems?

 

Yep, use the shutdown lever on the side of the pump to kill it.

As long as you have air-free fuel to the injection pump it should run.

 

hope you dont mind if I pick your brain a bit here as I am waiting on it to charge up. The forums seem to be able to answer anyquestion but there is so much info that it makes finding what you need hard.
Seems the choke point with the exhaust is the first downward bend off the turbo.....but I have almost 12 inches to my firewall and at a 45 angle I have about 20 inches before I hit anything, so if I am able would even a 5inch system be better? I also still have the stock turbo. Looks like most people think the most bang for the buck is changing the compressor on it....what do you think?

 

solenoid stripped still same fires on ether then dies......

 

lift pump prime handle has no resistence....I dont believe thats normal..in tank pump seems to be giving pressure past the lift pump.

 

There's no need for 5 inch exhaust on a stock or mostly stock motor. 4" is plenty.

If the truck has a stick shift, a smaller turbine housing will wake it up a bunch. Automatic trucks run pretty good with the stock housing.

OK. Do you have the return lines plumbed, nothing pinched off?

The primer lever can be floppy if the cam is in the right spot, turn the engine one revolution and try again.

You have a pusher pump in the tank? Do you get good solid fuel when you open the bleed screw near the filter?

 

stock now but am thinking it would be nice to have more around 350/500esh rwh and tq. so was wanting to make sure that I dident undersize for future expansions.....

I believe there is only one return line at the end of the injector run. it is correct, you said return lines plural hope im not missing something.

HOLY **** I leaned in to jump the starter left hand was pushing on the throttle linkage and she fired right up...
oops forgot to check the pump....
ok it still feels like it does nothing no reistence at all stays where you let it go at.

 

There is a return line from the pump that tees into the injector return at the back corner of the engine.

Will it start without giving extra throttle now?

Open the bleed screw and pump the lever, you should get some resistance then. When the fuel system is pressurized with fuel, you get no resistance because the pump won't pull in more fuel if there's nowhere for it to go.

4" is plenty for your plans.

 

yes fires on the first click. nothing after the turbo what a sound.
So then I have no resistence because the intank pusher pump is doing all the work.
I would like to install my own exhaust still havent located part suppler.
Thanks for the help