Anyone ever use this conversion kit for their 1st gen dodge w250?

https://farfromstockstore.com/produc...ersion-kit-srw

 

Seems spendy. And you're still stuck with the almost-too-narrow stock diff.

I'd sooner track down a whole disc brake diff. A Dana 70 or 80 from a 2ndgen is almost bolt-in. I put a drum D80 in my W250 for now, and have a disc one to put in later on.

 

I’m quite new to the first gen world. What diff is stock? And is there a conversion kit to make the switch to a Dana?

 

You would have a Dana 70 in your 1st gen from the factory.
Welcome to DTR.

 

Thanks!

 

Welcome to the board. I used the egr kit, which is almost twice the price. It uses the cadillac calipers. My kit did not include the lines...Mark

 

might add, cad calipers remanned are not easy to source for replacement, many are selling new (chinese) for pretty high prices, around 300. per caliper, im running a non ebrake caliper on double caliper bracket, with mechanical ebrake caliper

 

Ain't nothing wrong with the Dana 70 you got. I wouldn't replace it unless there was something seriously wrong with it. The far from stock kit sounds a lot more reasonable at $470 vs $600 from EGR for a non-e brake kit. However EGR comes in cheaper when you add the e brake though.

 

My thoughts exactly.
Why the need for disc brakes on the rear?

Sounds like the truck [and Cummins 1st gens] are pretty new to you as you put it. Why not drive the truck for a while and see what you think needs attention.

 

I guess I’m a little concerned about running into discontinued parts. I saw someone earlier voicing concerns over discontinued parts for their brake cylinders but if you all think otherwise, I’ll definitely follow advice.

 

I wouldn't worry too much about that.

 

I haven't found a discontinued part I haven't found a workaround for yet. If you are that concerned about the rear brakes you can always upgrade the rear slave cylinders and shoes to the larger 1 ton version. Look through the FAQ section. There is a lot of info there.

 

Until you go to renew the bearings and you find out the carrier bearing pockets are worn too. (High & hard miles.)

IMHO, not enough good reasons to stick with it when you start modifying...

 

Most of us have been running the OEM read axle set-up, and with a lot of hard and heavy miles too boot, with no issues. If you want to truly improve your braking do the 3" shoes and one ton wheel cylinder on the rear, and then convert your truck from vacuum boosted brakes to Hydro-boost braking....night and day difference.

One of the best upgrades I've done to my crewcab, and it's a heavy beast tipping the scale at close to 7000lbs, with the old vacuum brake booster I could literally stand on the brake pedal and it wheels would not lock up (and I'm 6'8" and 275lbs... with the hydroboost set-up as the only change I can use moderate brake pressure and the wheels will now lock up no problem.

 

avray, incase your wondering the 250 and SWR 350 uses the same brake drum. If your not replacing the drum, just have it turned to get a full clean surface again. The slave cylinders are a bolt in.