Did your truck respond to pump tweaking? if so what?
#1
Did your truck respond to pump tweaking? if so what?
I have tweaked my pump just a touch, but i didn't notice anything really. I want to turn it up more, but i am not sure if its going to respond. its the same truck in my sig.
So my question to you is....
What your is your truck i/c or non i/c?
What did you tweak on the pump?
And how well did it respond to the adjustments.
Thanks Derek
So my question to you is....
What your is your truck i/c or non i/c?
What did you tweak on the pump?
And how well did it respond to the adjustments.
Thanks Derek
#2
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What did you mess with on your pump?
I have an intercooled pump and have turned mine up and 2 other intercooled trucks a little bit.
Tightening the starwheel, turning it down will give the afc spring less resistance so fuel will come on quicker. You might not notice a whole lot by messing with this, but maybe a little more bottom end and a bit more smoke til the turbo spools.
Turning the fuel pin to the deep side will help a bit. Taking the little teflon washer off of the top of the fuel pin will help with top end cuz it will allow the pin to travel further down giving it more fuel on the top end.
The smoke screw is more of just a preset of how far down it starts your fuel pin. Personally I wouldn't really mess with it unless you want a lot of fuel on the bottem end, but it won't affect top end once your under boost because the pin will be down on its own.
The full power screw is what really wakes these trucks up. That made the most difference on my truck. I used to have an old Bully dog pin in my truck then sold it cuz it goulged and put my stock pin in, so I turned up my full power screw up a few more turns and I had a lot more power then with my stock pin then I did with the bully dog pin. Just be careful to not let it runaway and keep a board handy to slap over the turbo inlet to choke it off if it does start hanging at a higher rpm. You'll need to turn idle down also.
You can also make sure you are getting full travel on your throttle linkage, I just took my high idle screw out, and I took my pedal out an heated it up and bent it and put spacers behind it so it didn't hit the carpet before I got full throttle. This helped a lot with top end power. I also moved the little ball that is part of the throttle linkage to the inside hole of the pump and that helped quite a bit.
There is also the 3200 rpm spring which is a good upgrade, it will give you much more pull and top end and will make your throttle a little more touchier.
I've heard the non i/c pumps respond a little bit differently. But mostly just mess around with yours til you find what you like. Just mark things and count your turns in case you want to put them back. Just be careful, this all gets addicting way fast
I have an intercooled pump and have turned mine up and 2 other intercooled trucks a little bit.
Tightening the starwheel, turning it down will give the afc spring less resistance so fuel will come on quicker. You might not notice a whole lot by messing with this, but maybe a little more bottom end and a bit more smoke til the turbo spools.
Turning the fuel pin to the deep side will help a bit. Taking the little teflon washer off of the top of the fuel pin will help with top end cuz it will allow the pin to travel further down giving it more fuel on the top end.
The smoke screw is more of just a preset of how far down it starts your fuel pin. Personally I wouldn't really mess with it unless you want a lot of fuel on the bottem end, but it won't affect top end once your under boost because the pin will be down on its own.
The full power screw is what really wakes these trucks up. That made the most difference on my truck. I used to have an old Bully dog pin in my truck then sold it cuz it goulged and put my stock pin in, so I turned up my full power screw up a few more turns and I had a lot more power then with my stock pin then I did with the bully dog pin. Just be careful to not let it runaway and keep a board handy to slap over the turbo inlet to choke it off if it does start hanging at a higher rpm. You'll need to turn idle down also.
You can also make sure you are getting full travel on your throttle linkage, I just took my high idle screw out, and I took my pedal out an heated it up and bent it and put spacers behind it so it didn't hit the carpet before I got full throttle. This helped a lot with top end power. I also moved the little ball that is part of the throttle linkage to the inside hole of the pump and that helped quite a bit.
There is also the 3200 rpm spring which is a good upgrade, it will give you much more pull and top end and will make your throttle a little more touchier.
I've heard the non i/c pumps respond a little bit differently. But mostly just mess around with yours til you find what you like. Just mark things and count your turns in case you want to put them back. Just be careful, this all gets addicting way fast
#3
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That loose plastic collar at the top of the fuel pin? (it's not quite "little" :-) but my question is: is it advisable, in a daily driver truck, to remove it completely or better to just reduce its size/thickness/height? If it's removed, then what will limit the movement of the fuel pin?
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yep thats it. I just took mine out, it allows the fuel pin to travel down farther giving more top end, but it can't travel down too far cuz the pin will hit the bottom anyway. If you take it out, you can always put it back in.I've heard of people shaving the washer down or putting an O-ring there instead of the washer but might as well take it out.
#5
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the first time i cranked my pump up i felt almost nothing!!! it was my torque converter!!!! i droped 700ish on a nice tc and wow what a difference!!! best upgrade yet!!
#6
ya i have been thinking it was my tc. the truck is such a dog on hills at low speed. i mean goes almost nowhere for the amount of noise it makes. but then sometimes it just screws lol but its a dog most of the time unless im really on it.
i have only done half a turn on my power screw, and 1.5 turns down on the star wheel. thats all i have adjusted. i want to crank the power screw, just a touch nervous about runaway, and i have a hard time to adjust my idle screw, so thats holding me back.
i have only done half a turn on my power screw, and 1.5 turns down on the star wheel. thats all i have adjusted. i want to crank the power screw, just a touch nervous about runaway, and i have a hard time to adjust my idle screw, so thats holding me back.
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ya i have been thinking it was my tc. the truck is such a dog on hills at low speed. i mean goes almost nowhere for the amount of noise it makes. but then sometimes it just screws lol but its a dog most of the time unless im really on it.
i have only done half a turn on my power screw, and 1.5 turns down on the star wheel. thats all i have adjusted. i want to crank the power screw, just a touch nervous about runaway, and i have a hard time to adjust my idle screw, so thats holding me back.
i have only done half a turn on my power screw, and 1.5 turns down on the star wheel. thats all i have adjusted. i want to crank the power screw, just a touch nervous about runaway, and i have a hard time to adjust my idle screw, so thats holding me back.
thats exactly what my truck was like when my tc was going south!!
its well worth the money to get a good converter!! DO NO GET A STOCK REPLACEMENT!! you wont be happy with it!!
spend the extra dough and get a good one!!!
Last edited by BC847; 01-11-2011 at 10:09 AM. Reason: Langauge
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#9
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rev it up every ¼ - ½ turn you make and listen for the rpm to hang. Once it starts hanging, back it off like ½ turn.
hanging is defined by you revving it up, and when you let off the throttle it doesn't immediately drop back to idle.
hanging is defined by you revving it up, and when you let off the throttle it doesn't immediately drop back to idle.
#10
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my pump was so sensitive that less than a quarter turn what the difference between hanging and runaway!!
your gonna need a friend with a piece of 2x6!!
#11
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http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/more_power/Power_ve.htm
That is the link from the sticky, which says nothing about how to tell when you are near run-away and just says to crank the screw in 2 turns.
And here is the link regarding run-away
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=158962
which says almost exactly what I posted, except it includes what to do if you do get to a run-away situation.
My truck I bottomed out the full power screw and no signs of run-away. Apparently I got a short screw from the factory (not the first time I've heard that )
That is the link from the sticky, which says nothing about how to tell when you are near run-away and just says to crank the screw in 2 turns.
And here is the link regarding run-away
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=158962
which says almost exactly what I posted, except it includes what to do if you do get to a run-away situation.
My truck I bottomed out the full power screw and no signs of run-away. Apparently I got a short screw from the factory (not the first time I've heard that )
#12
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http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/more_power/Power_ve.htm
That is the link from the sticky, which says nothing about how to tell when you are near run-away and just says to crank the screw in 2 turns.
And here is the link regarding run-away
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=158962
which says almost exactly what I posted, except it includes what to do if you do get to a run-away situation.
My truck I bottomed out the full power screw and no signs of run-away. Apparently I got a short screw from the factory (not the first time I've heard that )
That is the link from the sticky, which says nothing about how to tell when you are near run-away and just says to crank the screw in 2 turns.
And here is the link regarding run-away
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=158962
which says almost exactly what I posted, except it includes what to do if you do get to a run-away situation.
My truck I bottomed out the full power screw and no signs of run-away. Apparently I got a short screw from the factory (not the first time I've heard that )
the sticky says nothing about being near runaway because proper procedure is to find runaway stop it by choking the turbo out then backing the fuel screw out 1/2 to a full turn
the reason i suggested this method is because if i didnt have a friend with the 2x6 i would have had a bad runaway situation!! i was going up in 1/4 turns!! one to many and she ran for the hills!!! quite scary when it takes off like that!!!!
#13
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I dunno about you, but I'd MUCH MUCH rather watch for the signs of impending run away and back off vs just going crazy with the screw then dealing with having to kill the engine after it has started to run away.
#14
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I do mine like Gots a Sol said, adjust/rev a little at a time, with the intake open and a 2x6 in standby just in case. How hard could that be?
#15
once you get that 2x6 on there it should shut down rather fast mine did it left a ring in my 2x6 which is kinda scary then i backed the screw out 1/2 turn and started the truck with my father ready to choke it if it started it again im 1 1/2 turns from bottoming mine out