I put a LS rear in my truck from a 93 D250. I'm not sure if it is messed up or not. I don't have any experience with one of these. I know the brakes are messed up, the driver's side will lock up under moderate braking. So I jacked up the rear, put it in drive, and both wheels are spinning the same direction as expected. When I apply the brakes, dr side stops right away, but pass side keeps spinning unless I mash the pedal as hard as I can. Obviously I have a rear brake problem.

Here's the part that concerns me. When I let off the brakes, only the pass wheel starts turning. I try to spin the driver side by hand, and it is bound up. If I turn it backwards a little, it will start turning normally with the other one.

Does this make sense to anyone? I was assuming the axles were coupled together by a clutch pack, and couldn't spin independently without alot of torque applied. So either my LS unit is messed, or I'm way off on understanding how it works. I sure hope it's the latter

 

Sounds to me like the shoes may just need an adjustment. Did you have this problem before you installed the LSD?

 

There is definately a brake problem but the ls shouldn't slip that easy should it jimbo?

 

I did have a problem wit the other axle, pass side was dragging.
I was just outside turning it by hand, brake adjuster plug removed from the backing plate. It grabs randomly with a bang, and it is the brakes, because I can see the adjuster move when it grabs.
I'm getting ready to pull the drums and see what's going on in there.

 

That is my main concern.
It seems to drive fine, spins both if I goose it (bald tires in gravel/ dirt) no funny noises that I can hear.

 

Don't worry about the diff. Adjust/repair the brakes and it will be fine. The diff in these things are a work of art. They just about freewheel when worn in. They apply more pressure to the clutch when there is resistance. the crosspins are on ramps that apply the pressure, but only when needed. I understand that there is some spring pressure on the clutches, but not enough to overcome brake issues. Fix the brakes before considering "going in".

 

Thank you so much. I love my LS. It would break my heart to find out it was messed.
pulled the drums in the meantime. Pass side is a wet mess. oil seal and wheel cyl both leaking, adjuster installed backwards.
I can't recall, but is the shorter shoe on the forward side? If not, both sides are backwards also.
Going for parts now.

 

I never thought of that but it does make sense.

 

I took mine apart after bypassing RWAL and bleeding 15 gallons of DOT3 through them. Found the lever for the adjuster not engaging and had a groove worn in it. $23 spring and adjuster kit did the trick... plus about $40 in dually rear wheel seals (different than the SRW trucks). They are marked as "except 9,000lb axle". They have an OD of 3.000" instead of the SRW axle's 2.825". Advanced auto had them for $12 and Napa had one for $30!

 

The shoes should be equal in size. At least that's what I've seen in other applications.

 

hey-Hey!!!,
The Dana Powr-Lok manual says 300 lb.-ft is the unloaded break-away torque, with 200 lb.-ft if you re-config the clutch packs.
cheers,
Douglas

 

The shoes on this axle have a shorter section of friction material on the primary (front) shoe. Which seems to be correct according to some digging into some random older American truck manuals. The Chilton dodge truck 89-96 manual has a general drum brake section, but I didn't see a D70 in there. What they did show had identical sized primary and secondary shoes.

Guess I'll just see what I get from the parts store in a 3" shoe. (tow package?)

 

Begging your pardon Sir, but I've had nothing but SRW and nothing so new as to be equipped with an IC and I have had need of both sizes of seal. In my case I decided it was the diff between 35 spline and 32( the 32's having the larger axle seal, or so I considered concluding ). With your note I think I'll promote the seal difference to 'entirely arbitrary'; maybe they were shooting for 3" on all ov them and all the ones that came out undersize got moved to the next seal size smaller...who's got a better story?
cheers,
Douglas

 

Thats the way I understand it. Its a progressive deal. Mine behaves the same. Don't forget to put he additive in the gear oil.

 

I put in National #417158 seals in my '90 D250 (08/89 production) with the old neck-down hubs; 35-spline too. Ordered some other seals before, but they were flanged and too small. I presumed I had ordered D60 seals (gas truck) by mistake.