Seems to be made of unobtanium.

What Permatex product do you use to make one?

 

You mean the pumpkin cover gasket? Rock auto. They have the cheap paper style ones. I've used them with success, I've also used regular old gasket maker stuff and no leaks!

 

ultra Black silly cone will work napa sells

Dana 60 70 same gasket

 

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,ca...,parttype,2316

 

If you've had issues in the past where permatex doesn't work, if you simply install the FIPG and let it sit overnight to "cure" without adding any oils, you will find that the seal is permanent.

Most of us are too impatient (myself included) to realize that a cured seal works better to resist solvents, oils, AF and such than one in the process of curing.

 

You can also get the paper type sheet. I like to use silicon and the paper gaskets together. I smear a little silicone on each side of the mating surfaces. Makes a great seal, and if you have to disassemble a few years later, it scrapes off easily.

 

Thanks. I'm off the buy the Dana 60 gasket from clown auto. They say they don't have a gasket for a 70.

Opened it up. Oil is black. Maybe 1/2 oz of extremely fine particles on the magnet. Nothing but dirty oil in the bottom.

There was no gasket, but some orange silly-cone. Didn't leak at all.

 

I use RTV high temp orange silicon. Usually have a tube of it in the caulking gun. Let it sit for a few hours...then refill. Never had any issues with leaking.

 

I use the smear some RTV on both sides of the paper gasket tech. if I have the gasket.
If I don't have the paper gasket, and I am in no rush.
I will use RTV, but not fully tighten down the nuts on the diff cover till the next day, when I crank them down a bit and then fill with oil.
This is so the RTV doesn't just all push out, and you end up with a better seal.
Just don't forget to fill it with oil the next day!!!

 

the trick to get any silicone to stick and NOT LEAK, is to clean both surfaces with liquor thinner, acetone, or good brake/ parts cleaner. there must be NO oily residue on either surface !! after cleaning, run a SMALL bead on one surface and install the cover. tighten the bolts to factory specs. after a time, fill the object with the oil or whatever you`re sealing for. RTV silicone will NOT seal gasoline or diesel ( after a time it will seep through) if you do a through job of cleaning, the RTV will glue the parts together good enough that you can remove a few bolts and use them for on the trail repairs. ask me how I know how long gas or diesel takes to seep. and where to get a couple bolts when you`re on the trail !!

 

J martin seems like the kinda guy who cleans his sealing surfaces well, before trying to seal them.
Just judging from his posts...
This is a good point though smoothing, and cleaning the surfaces are key to this working well.

 

Old School I used a lot of Gasket Cinch on the gasket and surface on both Cummins and Detroit's with great success for many years from working for the county of Los Angeles, also use on split engine cases.

When I serviced my diff I closed it using High Temp Silicone after I cleaned the housing and cover mating surface using acetone, then I secured the paper gasket using an unbroken bead of silicone sparingly allowing it to set up for about 10 minutes before assembly.

I also stuck an additional rare earth magnet to the inside of the cover for added security.

A trick to keep diff covers from seeping from the bolts is to install copper washers under each bolt.

Anyone using a GM-12 bolt needs to know this trick.

Make sure your case vent is part of your service.

They have actually assembled a complete engine using only silicone and no gaskets though I would never do it.

Jim

 

I had a Porsche 912 that had NO head gaskets and you only torqued the head bolts to 22 foot pounds. Not exactly low compression either. I believe that all air cooled VWs and Porsches are the same way...Mark

 

J martin is the kinda guy that would forget the lube the next day.

This project is getting to be a career. managed to button up one front wheel between rain spells. Got well chewed up by the skeeters.

When I bought the truck the rear wheel bearings were way overtightened, like 140 foot lbs. Drove it a few hundred miles that way before I investigated the hot hubs and found the tightness. I decided I'd replace the bearings that were likely damaged. Today I punched perfectly good Timken bearings out of one of the hubs. Went to install new bearings and found out I had only bought the cone for the inner. Cups local would cost me about 25 bucks apiece and a day. If I had known what I was doing I could have bought the Timken sets from Rock cheaper than the National parts I got.

What I'm going to do is put the Timkens back in and send the National stuff back with the brake cores.

FYI, rear bearings for a 93 D350 with a Dana 70 axle in it are

Inner Timken Set416, cup 45220, cone 45291
Outer Timken Set38, cup 104911, cone LM104949

I learned a trick with silly-cone. Happened to be a bead of it on a divider in Mercury V6 outboards to keep the exhaust on it's side of the leg and away from the shaft and water pump. I put in the bead as instructed, then let it set till it skins over but is still squishy. Then I put a very light coat of oil on the mating surface. Next time I do the LU service (water pump annual) I don't have to replace the silly-cone.

Works on rocker covers and such also. No way It'd work on a Dana rear end.

 

When I walk away from a rig with the something like no oil in the axle as the RTV seals..
I pull the key and leave a BIG note on the drivers seat.
The note reads something like.
NO OIL IN DIFF
I left myself notes and pulled the key, lasts winter when drilling/putting my pyro and Cooler Tubz cross over pipe in over several nights as I had free time.
I left notes like RAG IN HEAD, or RAG IN TURBO on my dash, until it was buttoned up.
I would feel really dumb sending a shop rag into my engine/turbo that was using to keep a little dirt out of.