Got my 3200 spring in today. HUGE thanks to papecat!!

We got the thing in and had an instant runaway condition on the first start. Luckily we shut it down within seconds, but it left me wondering. Here's where I get confused. With the stock spring in there, I had my full power screw maxed- I couldn't turn it in anymore if I wanted to. When we put the 3200 spring in, I put it to the same spot and it ran away instantly. What would cause this? We got it all figuered out by backing the full power screw out alot (probably 3-4 turns), so much to the point where if I revved the motor in neutral I couldn't even get a puff of smoke out. Could it be that we didn't assemble the throttle lever as it was orginally indexed on the truck stock? I know I might just be paranoid now, but that runaway on the first start was ummmm... interesing. Sounded like a jet trying to take off in my driveway!

Other than that, it's working great, pulls so much harder everywhere. Even runs harder now with my fuel turned way down than it did with my fuel turned up with the stock spring. Just need to figure out my binding throttle linkage and then I'm gonna turn up the power and go abuse my truck, it's too much fun!!!

 

Bingo! Give that man a cigar! Very common thing, I've done it myself. Back it off a spline and turn the pump back up.

 

**** I'm good . Back it off one spline counter clockwise?

I think I owe everyone on this forum a beer, thanks to everyone!

 

Yep, you got it.

 

Hey also double check the arrangement of that plastic piece inside the spring, see how it corresponds with the pic of the write up... I think we have it in unspside down which could be why it was binding a bit. CCW one spline gets my vote too. Did you try getting any air outta that fuel line?

 

Not yet, gonna try it tomorrow. Had to leave right when we were done to go to the GFs B day party. Can't wait to work on it tomorrow and get some real power...

 

So i see u too are playing around with your truck too. I went crazy after i got those injectors in. I think i caught dieselitis. Couldn't get enough of it. I just went crazy...
But the throttle arm thing was my problem too, that and i forgot about the high speed screw.... turned it out and it was fun.
But hope all goes well.....
Aaron

 

Can you tell me more about the high speed screw? I'm honestly kind of confused about the high speed vs low speed screw, which I thought I read about somewhere on this site.

 

The low speed screw is the screw on the inside of the pump, which is the harder one to get to. The throttle arm touches it when it is idle. You usually have to adjust it to get the idle down after you turn the full fuel screw up to get the idle back down.
The high speed is the one that is opposite and is easily accessed, which you should need to adjust after changing to the 3200 spring. I turned my screw out 5 turns and you have to adjust the throttle linkage to compensate for the extra travel.
Hope this helps.
Aaron

 

Alright, played with it more today, and got some better results. I moved the splined thing one around some. I turned it clockwise one spline (which would make the engine idle/run lower) and it wouldn't fire unless I held the throttle about 1/4" or so open. Bumped it up one (CCW one spline) and it fired up fine, but idled high. I couldn't get the shaft to move anymore CCW, not that I would want to anyway, since I think 1 more thread and it would have been in runaway territory. Right now, the notch on the shaft is right in the middle of the little marks that it sits next to.

I also adjusted my idle after I turned up the full power screw. It idles really high right now, even with the idle screw backed almost all the way out. I want to turn the power up more, but I won't be able to get the idle down. Is there anything I can do? It also seems like my idle fluctuates some.

My tranny hates its life more than ever now. I also backed the AFC starwheel out almost all the way and put the smoke screw to it was flush with the inside cover (so it was almost all the way out) and wow, too much low boost fueling can kill your bottom end power! Runs great even with less smoke.

 

Your throttle shaft should be at 10 and 2 oclock. Your throttle linkage may need to be shortened some to get your idle down.

 

Are you referring to the line on the throttle shaft? If you are, I can't see how it can be at 10 and 2 if it's just a straight line on the shaft. I think mine is at about 10 and 4 or so...

 

look in the tech article again,theres a pritty good pic of it there!

Using needlenose pliers pull the spring around.




Click for full size image

Install the bottom lever to the correct clocked position using the notes you took. Line up the slot in the shaft with the index marks on the lever

That didn't work but here's the link any ways!

http://dens-site.net/Dodge_CTD/Gover...ing/index.html

 

Does everyone generally have their throttle levers at 10 and 4? I tried mine there after installing the spring and I had to put my foot on the gas to get it started. Currently it is sitting between the 9 & 10 on the top and 3 & 4 on the bottom. Even at this setting, I still have about 11 threads of the low idle screw between the stop and the ear. I still haven't had time to try moving the lever another spline and check it there.

 

I'm going to move the shaft one notch CW, which should lower the idle. I think part of the reason that it wouldn't idle without holding the throttle when it was at the position was because I had to turned the full fuel screw out A LOT after we had the first runaway. I'm talking probably 5-6 turns, when it was only in 1.5 turns from stock before I tore into the pump. By moving the shaft CW one spline, it should lower the idle and I should be able to crank my fuel screw up alot more!! I'll let you guys know how it goes.

For what it's worth, turning the shaft clockwise will decrease tension on the gov spring, causing a lower idle/less sensitive throttle. Moving it counter clockwise will do the opposite, it will pull harder on the gov spring causing a very sensitive throttle and a higher idle.