ok guys ive tried to spin my turbo so the drain lines up with the oil pan. i was wondering what do you have to do inorder to get it to line up better?

do you have to cut the wastegate rod? and if i cut it will it hurt anything. what v band clamps do i have to loosen to get this thing to spin a little bit?

or do i have to loosen everthing downpipe manifold etc to get it to move? id really like to be able to do this on the truck if at all possible. thanks

it is on my third gen but the principal is the same the first gen thread has never let me down and i know a lot of guys put them on their first gens so i was just wondering how to do it thanks

 

It won't clock without taking it apart. There is a little tab on the exhaust housing side to prevent it from rotating and the compressor side is too tight with the snap ring on there.

disconnect the wastegate actuator rod from the exhaust housing. IIRC there is a little snap ring type thing holding it to the exhaust housing, just remove it and slide it off. Then remove the compressor housing with the massive snap ring and also remove the exhaust housing by removing the clamp on it. grind off the tab that clocks the exhaust housing to the centre section.

Bolt the exhaust housing to the truck. Clock the centre section accordingly with the exhaust housing bolted to the truck and carefully reconnect the centre section to the exhaust housing. Put the put the compressor housing back on with the snap ring and if you clocked it to retain use of the wastegate hook it back up, otherwise find a way to keep the wastegate shut

IIRC that's what I did, more or less.

 

there is only a little pin in there that keeps them clocked in the stock position. Get the housings off and pull the pin out with a pair of pliers, you shouldn't have to grind it off and then clock it where you want it and put it back together and make sure its tight.

 

be patient that was one of the hardest things Of course it could have been easier if i had the right tools

 

For whatever reason my pin was fixed. I had to grind it. At least that's what I remember. Maybe I grinded it needlessly, I didn't try to pull it out.

 

92 smokin blacky is correct the small pins pull out. not a big deal. Mock it togeather and line up your drain hose. Done right you can reuse the waste gate. Buy a couple 45deg. boots and the i/c hoses connect.

 

I wrecked two pairs of snap ring pliers trying to get mine done. I ended up using two small screwdrivers to walk it out. GIANT pain in the butt.

 

I soaked mine for a day or two by spraying PB Blaster on it twice a day. I used a punch and hammer to loosen each ear of the snap ring. Once it was free, the snap ring pliers worked like a charm.

Flush end wire cutters work great for pulling that rolled pin. Some people call them nail pullers, they are the same thing. Mock it up on the truck, make some marks, then reassemble it on the bench with the marks lined up with the snap ring.

 

there is no easier way to do this eh? i really was hoping to do it on the truck but sounds like it cant be done.

has anybody heated it up a little and just bent it ever so slightly? thanks

 

I think others said it, the pin simply pulls out with a pair of pliers, i did mine with my fingers. The snap ring does suck but is do-able, you need a good pair of snap-ring pliers chitty, sheap ones won't work. I used MAC and SNAP-ON pliers i made the mac ones work (they were regular size), i also found out that once bolted to the manifold you can re-clock the middle section by loosening the v-band and using a pry-bay or big channel locks. You can then re-clock the compressor wheel by tightening the v-band and knocking the snap-ring loose with a drive and small hammer, then use a pry bay in between the 90* elbow and electric boost control device.

Hope this helps some, its not as hard as you'd think but can b a pita, if you know what i mean.

 

I guess you could do it with the turbine bolted to the manifold. You'll need to drill out the 2 bottom tapped holes on the flange first cause our studs are all in the manifold, not in the turbine flange. However, you'll still have to take everything off, and it will be easier to access everything on the bench anyway.

I would NOT recommend heating it up and bending it! Those c-clips hold well, and when 2 roll pins are in there, it ain't gonna rotate without breaking something.

 

I didn't have big enough sanp ring pliers at home. My solution was a set of large needle nose pliers. It worked very well for me, I just squeezed it then used a screwdriver to pop it up.

 

takin the turbo off isn't too hard, It'll take less than 30 minutes and makes it a lot easier when you have it off.

Or what you could do is loosen the V-band clamp on the exhaust housing side with the turbo still on, then take the turbo off with the exhaust housing still mounted to the manifold, then pull the little pins and reclock the housings.

 

Once you start the project, don't try to cob it. It realy is not that bad. Just be careful and take it easy. Read these other threads alot of usfull info in them.