Unless unforeseen situations deter me from my intentions, I am gonna fly in on swapping the exhaust manifold on my engine.

Once the new manifold is mounted, the turbo is going to be positioned differently, necessitating re-clocking the compressor housing.

As best I can tell, rotating the compressor housing is as simple as loosening a V-band clamp, clocking, and then re-tightening the clamp; RIGHT ??


I may also need to re-position the center section where the oil feed and drain is.

How do I go about this ??

Is it imperative that the oil inlet fitting be located on top; or, since it is a pressure line, can it be sort of on the side ??

What about the drain-back; how particular is it concerning it's orientation ??


Thanks.

 

The center section needs to be vertical or darn close. Remember it's drained by gravity.

You can adjust the exhaust housing by backing out the 4 bolts that clamp it to the center section. Then get out the big hammer and commence to beatin'. Understand you are not trying to knock the housing off the center section with the big hammer, just lay the turbo on a piece of timber and whack the housing until you see it move. You will have to whack it hard quite a few times to get it shaken loose, then you will be able to tap it off the center section with a smaller hammer. You aren't going to be able to rotate the housing without taking it off first, there's just too much rust. When you tap it off, keep spinning the turbine over to make sure it's coming off straight. Then you can clean everything up, put on some antisieze compound, and put it back on the way you want it aimed.

The compressor is just that simple.

Adjust the exhaust side so the center section is vertical, then move the compressor until your intake plumbing lines up.

 

Thank you.

It has been many years since I had to re-clock a turbo and that one was a Garrett.

 

The turbo is out of the engine bay and laying on a block of wood.

I have done beat until I myself am beat, using a 12-pound sledge.


Where exactly on these housings can one hit without any danger of cracking something ??


I am by myself and really have no means of holding one side still while I hit on the other.


It is now laying with the seam on top and about half-an-inch of knocker-loose soaking into it.


Maybe tomorrow will show some positive results.


Am I missing a trick ??


Thanks.

 

I have had the best luck dangling the turbo by the center section with one hand and swinging a 3lb hammer at the exhaust housing with the other hand, rotating the turbo 90* every few hits. After a few complete rotations and a lot of swearing it's usually loose enough to notice, and to move to a smaller hammer.

 

Thanks; I will try my luck with that method tomorrow.




Any one particular cuss-word have more effect than another; the one's I have been using aren't seeming to work.

 

How many miles are on it? I had to work on my H1C over a period of two days, if I remember correctly. I would beat on it with a large hammer then put some liquid wrench on it and repeat every couple hours while I was working on other things. Got to the point where I felt like I was trying to hit the dang thing over the fence before it started to budge. Like wanna says, if you sense any type of movement, start spinning that wheel.

 

I usually threaten to install it on a Ford if it doesn't behave, but I don't think that applies in your case

 

Maybe a little heat?

 

I removed the compressor housing portion, so as to get a better lick at it.

I was banging around in the furnace-hot sun-shine, sweat stinging my eyes, when it came to me that I had a perfectly good ice-cold air-conditioned kitchen where I could just as well be doing this hammer-swinging; so, I moved my project in there.

I followed G1625S procedure and, after about three sessions of beat-then-rest, I felt a slight tightness in the rotation of the axis, whereas before it had been spinning freely.

My theory is that it was so hateful hot outside that the center section had swelled tight; and, once I got it in the frigid atmosphere of the kitchen, it dis-expanded and loosened it's hold on the exhaust housing.

A few more taps and she's off; I feel like celebrating.


Now I will have at it with the wire-wheel, clean things up, and get this project back into action.


Thanks to all for their advice and input.

 

I think you are missing a step you have to have a beer in one hand while beating on it also think of a ex wife or girlfriend or mother in law that usually works for me

 

So Bear, were you gonna give a 12cm housing a whirl since the turbine housing is already off.....

 

If I had one at hand, I for sure would give it a try.

As it is, I have about fifteen dozen un-foreseen issues to address just getting everything to fit and line-up with the new turbo location.

I should have done this several years ago, when the engine was sitting on the back of the truck; alas, one can't envision every last detail when a V-8 International is under the hood and a Dodge-specific Cummins is sitting on the flat.

Once I got it under the hood, the exhaust housing was hard against the plastic A/C evaporator box.


Then, at a Ford OilBurners get-together last summer in Bowling Green, KY, I saw a Ford much like mine, except with the BlueBird school-bus manifold; he had ten miles of room away from his A/C.



So, I was fortunate to nab the only one I have ever seen listed on E-Bay and it is now bolted on my engine.


With the turbo mounted up high and dry, it is unreal how much access room it opens up on that side of the engine.


Everything about it is now easier to work on.



I still have all the intake plumbing to install; I have it partially made; I sure hope it fits.



The one big snag that is gonna prevent me driving it tonight is having to re-clock the oil drain-back tube; meaning it will have to be cut off, relocated, and welded back together.


It is hard to envision how all this stuff is going to line up until it is all going together.

I sort of thought that a little gentle bending would make the drain-back work, but no such luck today.

This is the engine that I saw at the Ford picnic and what mine will soon look like :

http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2824...01950171VXyaGs


Now that I have everything loosened up and anti-siezed, it will be no big difficulty to swap exhaust housings in the future.

 

The near future. Wait a year and it will be back to the big hammer again.

 

For the oil drain you might look for some natural gas/ propane parts. That stainless steel corrugated tubing works nice. I have heard that you can get a tube assembly for a grill with 2 bolt flange that can be modifed to fit the bottom of the turbo.

You will most likely need a longer oil feed line.

I found this in my Holset info:

-The orientation of turbine housing, bearing housing and compressor cover is fixed according to application. During installation, do not attempt to rotate these components. Inclined turbocharger
installation is not recommended. If an installed angle is necessary, oil inlet centreline must be +/- 10 degrees from vertical and rotor centreline +/- 5 degrees from horizontal.

-Holset permits oil return pipes to decline at an overall angle of not less than 30 degrees below horizontal.
All turbocharger applications require a pipe of internal diameter greater than 19 mm which has integrated
connectors. To ensure oil returns into the engine under all operating conditions, the return connection
into the engine sump must not be submerged and the outlet flange of the turbocharger must be 50 mm
above the maximum oil level of the engine sump pan. Crankcase pressure should be limited ideally to 0.8
kPa (0.12 lbf/in2) but 1.4 kPa (0.20 lbf/in2) can be accepted by reference to Holset.