changing the oil
well guys.. just went and picked up the oil filter and oil today.. there is a big truck center about 4 miles from me.. they ordered the filter" lf16035" for me.. 14.00 bucks.. then i picked up some delvac 1300.. 10.85 gallon..hope it is some good oil to use.. i have not driven the truck since i have found out about the fram filters "currently installed
" any pointers or is it pretty much straight forward? fill oil filter with oil..etc..? by the way.. that truck center has some nice big rig goodies
"cooper kenworth".. might be paying that place a visit often from now own...
" any pointers or is it pretty much straight forward? fill oil filter with oil..etc..? by the way.. that truck center has some nice big rig goodies
"cooper kenworth".. might be paying that place a visit often from now own...
Delvac is good oil.
It's pretty simple. Make sure your drain pan is big enough for 3 gallons of oil. If it's the enclosed type of drain pan, open the vent and also remove the cap from the pour spout - I found out the hard way that the vent wouldn't let the air out fast enough to let the oil in. That was a little messy.
If you use a 5 gallon bucket, no worries.
Removing the filter is easier if you pop the intake duct off the turbo. Fill the filter with oil, make sure the old o-ring isn't stuck to the filter mount.
It's pretty simple. Make sure your drain pan is big enough for 3 gallons of oil. If it's the enclosed type of drain pan, open the vent and also remove the cap from the pour spout - I found out the hard way that the vent wouldn't let the air out fast enough to let the oil in. That was a little messy.
If you use a 5 gallon bucket, no worries.
Removing the filter is easier if you pop the intake duct off the turbo. Fill the filter with oil, make sure the old o-ring isn't stuck to the filter mount.
I have seen several filter tests that found fram to be the worst. That being said my dad ran a fram on his gmc p/u for 20 years with out a problem. The best oil filter is the one that gets changed when it should!
Check this out:
http://www.haisleymachine.com/TSB%20Oil%20Filter.htm
Check this out:
http://www.haisleymachine.com/TSB%20Oil%20Filter.htm
Don't take anybody's word for why a Fram filter is inferior to the others. Just go get a new fram filter, then go get a filter from Wix , Baldwin or Fleetguard and cut them all open. I believe it will be obvious to you at that point which is made inferior to the others. When you buy a fram, 90% of what you are paying for is for all of advertising they spend convincing you their filters are the best, and the other 10% is spend on the materials to make the filter. With a Fleetguard, Baldwin, or Wix it is more like 90% of the price is actually spent on the materials to make the filter. A Fram filter may be good enough if you keep yout oil changed regularly, but it still aggravates me to pay a company as much for their product that is less quality than buying one from a company that makes a better product for the same price. If you saw the insides of the Fram compared to the others, the Fram should be priced much lower.
Trending Topics
This is an appropriate place to add this bit of history.
Back in the mid-70s, the local parts-house, in our little one-light town, got ahold of a vast quantity of what looked like FRAM oil-filters.
Soon, the garages were over-ran with engine issues.
Many of these garages bought their filters from that parts-house.
On examination, these filters were "counterfeit" FRAM filters, with housings and internals stamped from discarded food cans.
You could actually see the Jolly Green Giant on some of the pieces.
It was years before anyone would buy a FRAM filter in our town, and many never did again.
Several of the older garages still have a couple of those old cut-apart filters laying around as conversation pieces.
Back in the mid-70s, the local parts-house, in our little one-light town, got ahold of a vast quantity of what looked like FRAM oil-filters.
Soon, the garages were over-ran with engine issues.
Many of these garages bought their filters from that parts-house.
On examination, these filters were "counterfeit" FRAM filters, with housings and internals stamped from discarded food cans.
You could actually see the Jolly Green Giant on some of the pieces.
It was years before anyone would buy a FRAM filter in our town, and many never did again.
Several of the older garages still have a couple of those old cut-apart filters laying around as conversation pieces.
The aforementioned oil filters in the bulletin are not that much more than a Fram (inferior product).
Knowing what has been said over the years and in many discussions, why would anyone want to risk their engine, let alone a pricey Cummins, to prove everyone wrong or "its just as good". The Napa Gold oil filter for the Cummins is also about $14.50 and I'm pretty sure it's a Wix in disquise.
Knowing what has been said over the years and in many discussions, why would anyone want to risk their engine, let alone a pricey Cummins, to prove everyone wrong or "its just as good". The Napa Gold oil filter for the Cummins is also about $14.50 and I'm pretty sure it's a Wix in disquise.
The aforementioned oil filters in the bulletin are not that much more than a Fram (inferior product).
Knowing what has been said over the years and in many discussions, why would anyone want to risk their engine, let alone a pricey Cummins, to prove everyone wrong or "its just as good". The Napa Gold oil filter for the Cummins is also about $14.50 and I'm pretty sure it's a Wix in disquise.
Knowing what has been said over the years and in many discussions, why would anyone want to risk their engine, let alone a pricey Cummins, to prove everyone wrong or "its just as good". The Napa Gold oil filter for the Cummins is also about $14.50 and I'm pretty sure it's a Wix in disquise.
I don't know where I gained this knowledge, nor who to credit it to; but, to keep oil from sloshing all over everything, here is a TIP :
First, loosen the filter, such that it is easily spun by hand.
Then, slip a PLASTIC-BAG over the filter; if the bags you have are thin and easily torn, then double up and use two.
Now, finish un-screwing and remove the filter from the engine, encapsulating it inside the bag.
All the mess will remain in the bag.
Although the location of our oil-filters is extremely annoying, and hard to access, compared to other trucks/engines I have had, the fact that the intake-tube must be removed, to get at the filter, gives us a good excuse and opportunity to investigate the condition of the AIR-FILTER as well.
First, loosen the filter, such that it is easily spun by hand.
Then, slip a PLASTIC-BAG over the filter; if the bags you have are thin and easily torn, then double up and use two.
Now, finish un-screwing and remove the filter from the engine, encapsulating it inside the bag.
All the mess will remain in the bag.

Although the location of our oil-filters is extremely annoying, and hard to access, compared to other trucks/engines I have had, the fact that the intake-tube must be removed, to get at the filter, gives us a good excuse and opportunity to investigate the condition of the AIR-FILTER as well.
I don't know where I gained this knowledge, nor who to credit it to; but, to keep oil from sloshing all over everything, here is a TIP :
First, loosen the filter, such that it is easily spun by hand.
Then, slip a PLASTIC-BAG over the filter; if the bags you have are thin and easily torn, then double up and use two.
Now, finish un-screwing and remove the filter from the engine, encapsulating it inside the bag.
All the mess will remain in the bag.
:
First, loosen the filter, such that it is easily spun by hand.
Then, slip a PLASTIC-BAG over the filter; if the bags you have are thin and easily torn, then double up and use two.
Now, finish un-screwing and remove the filter from the engine, encapsulating it inside the bag.
All the mess will remain in the bag.

:
I don't know where I gained this knowledge, nor who to credit it to; but, to keep oil from sloshing all over everything, here is a TIP :
First, loosen the filter, such that it is easily spun by hand.
Then, slip a PLASTIC-BAG over the filter; if the bags you have are thin and easily torn, then double up and use two.
Now, finish un-screwing and remove the filter from the engine, encapsulating it inside the bag.
All the mess will remain in the bag.
Although the location of our oil-filters is extremely annoying, and hard to access, compared to other trucks/engines I have had, the fact that the intake-tube must be removed, to get at the filter, gives us a good excuse and opportunity to investigate the condition of the AIR-FILTER as well.
First, loosen the filter, such that it is easily spun by hand.
Then, slip a PLASTIC-BAG over the filter; if the bags you have are thin and easily torn, then double up and use two.
Now, finish un-screwing and remove the filter from the engine, encapsulating it inside the bag.
All the mess will remain in the bag.

Although the location of our oil-filters is extremely annoying, and hard to access, compared to other trucks/engines I have had, the fact that the intake-tube must be removed, to get at the filter, gives us a good excuse and opportunity to investigate the condition of the AIR-FILTER as well.

I've never had to remove theintake to get at the oil filter..but i am skinny and have long, puny arms...







