Okay so I just changed the fuel filter in 1990 12v

The housing above the filter came out along with it and I don't know why, screwed it back in and put the new filter back in and plugged in the sensor. Started the truck and now it sounds like it's losing fuel, pressed the accel pedal and it died!! Please help ASAP!!

 

Kinda quiet here, isn't it. Maybe that's because everybody wonders why you would do that.

Did you crack the bleeder and pump the air bubble out of the fuel filter you put on with the lever conveniently supplied on the lift pump?

At any rate, go to the sticky's and look up bleeding the fuel system. Read it, do it, and it'll run.

 

I believe that part that came out is the fuel warmer and it has its own O-ring, IIRC. Make sure the O-rings are good and everything is tight. Did you fill the filter with fuel?...Mark

 

Yes I checked the o-rings to make sure they were in good shape before putting it back together. The weird thing is that there was nothing plugged into the fuel warmer before I took the original filter off in the first place.. Not sure if that could cause a problem? Because it ran totally fine before changing the filter

 

The stud holding the fuel heater in is a bear to get tight, and needs to be tightened prior to spinning the filter back on. The o-ring for the heater is a different one then what comes in the filter kit and deffo gets old and useless with age. Should try to change filter without spinning off the whole contraption.

 

Did you bleed the filter before starting the truck? Either way if the air made it into the pump then you need to bleed the injectors. The fuel heater doesn't need to be plugged in, just make sure the threaded piece is tight before putting the filter back on.

Let us know what is happening.

 

I didn't mean to unscrew the stud, it just came with the old filter which was a mo to get off. I did tighten the stud back to the block with a chisel before screwing the new filter on. I bled the injectors last night.. I was reading about it and I did 1&2, then 3&4, then 5&6... But somebody told me to just bleed the #1 injector, so I'm going to try that. I just ordered a fuel heater delete nipple so I'm going to put that in this weekend hopefully. The truck is past the point of even turning over, before it was just idling really rough, and now it just cranks.

 

And yes I know which o-ring you meant, it was still good so I put it back where it belonged before reattaching it to the block. Also there wasn't any pressure on the primer if that should make any difference... I don't know if there should be any pressure or not.

 

Did you get good fuel spray when bleeding the injectors?

Was the lift pump moving fuel? It can stop in the wrong spot and not pump, you have to bump the engine so it moves and allows the lever to pump. Not sure if that's what you mean by no pressure or not?

Don't know why anyone would bleed just one injector, open a few up at a time. Make sure your battery stays charged up so you don't burn up the starter.

 

What kind of filter is it? When I 1st got my truck I tried using a couple autozone filters before I knew any better. They would mess with the WIF sensor at the bottom of the filter, and my truck would run horribly. It would sputter non stop while not letting me go over 40mph. I returned both filters and got NAPA or Fleetguard filters now.
Just a thought.

 

No I did not bleed the filter before starting the truck, I didn't even know that was necessary. It's a Car Quest brand filter, if that makes a difference or not. I'm not sure why they said to only crack the #1 injector... I wouldn't think the lift pump stopped if the injector lines were still spraying fuel? But I don't know, this is my first diesel and I've only owned it a couple weeks

 

Oh and when I bled the injectors, it would stream for a second then stop, then stream again, in a pulsing pattern. Also wanted to add that at the base of where I was cracking the injectors there were bubbles? The bubbling hadn't started until after I had bled the last two injectors.. Not sure what was going on there.

And I meant pressure as in when I pumped the primer there wasn't any resistance in it.

EDIT: Adding on again... Lol my WIF light just stopped turning on, after bleeding the injectors.

 

Yup. You need to bleed the air out of the filter. You can fill the filter with clean fuel before putting it on to save time bleeding. To bleed the filter you crack the line above the filter that goes go the injection pump then pump the lever on the lift pump until fuel comes out.

Your next filter change will be easy compared to this. For filters, most folks run fleetguard , any big rig parts place can get them. check the sticky for the longer fuel filters too, they don't have a wif sensor but are a couple inches longer for more filter area.

 

Was the filter empty when you put it on?

 

I filled the new filter to a little over half before putting it on.