edwinsmith

As long as the key engages the gear properly and the timing marks line up on the pump your timing should be good. This assumes the gear hasn't been out of the housing. I don't know if it's possible to jump a tooth without taking the timing cover off or not but it seems like somebody would have mentioned this if it were possible. Maybe somebody will chime in.

Are you sure the keyway in the gear is clean? You are correct that the rounded part of the woodruff key goes in the shaft. I assume you've cleaned that out as well. The key should fit tight in the shaft and you should stake it if it doesn't. In my pump which I had out recently, the key stuck up about 1/16 or so out of the shaft and the flat part was parallel to the taper of the shaft if that makes a difference. Are the keys you're using steel or aluminum? They should be steel.

If yo have to, take out the radiator to get a good look at the gear and keyway to make sure it engages the key properly. You might be able to use a mirror but I've never had good luck with mirrors.

Edwin

bigredodge

got it all back together but I broke my oil fill extension tube thing

can't believe something so simple can be 100 dollars lol

edwinsmith

To quote Roseann Rosanadana, "It's always something!"

bigredodge

ok now I'm mad, my pump is leaking like crazy. runs great but it's pouring from the slide pin (used the replacement green o ring perfectly matched my old green o ring), mechanical shut off lever (was leaking worse before I changed the o ring to a fatter one) and I can't tell where else. also I can't get my idle adjusted, I maxed out my throttle shaft adjustment and it still pulls to much for the throttle assembly to touch the idle screw. guess I need to back out the fuel screw?

p.s. would scratching the slide pin make it leak that much? I may have scratched it when I was messing with it with pliers. my pump never leaked before, I just thought if I'm buying a whole seal kit just to replace one crusty o ring I'll just reseal the whole **** thing

edwinsmith

On my one and only reseal job I failed. But my fuel screw was boogered up from bending on the lever inside the pump. I also had a leak at the front of the pump where that banjo goes on.

Any scratches on that pin would probably cause a leak. You might be able to polish it out if it's not to big. Are you sure that's what's leaking? You could be like me and just not good at it and other o-rings started leaking.

I wound up getting a rebuild and the only thing I did to the rebuild pump was to swap the governor spring. This time I backed off the fuel screw like you're supposed to.

Go take a break and calm down and tackle it again in the morning. Maybe somebody else would have a pristine pin to replace yours if it's to badly damaged. Oliver?

Also Oliver might have your oil fill pipe.

Edwin

bigredodge

lol thanks Edwin, I took the cap and fuel pin out and yeah definitely coming from that slide pin. I didn't think I was too rough with it i used my smallest pair of needle nose..

on second thought yeah I probably scratched it up haha. and as far as the mechanical shut off lever, for some reason it's not sealing against the body like it was before, I can kinda push it in and pull it out. I took it back apart and put the thickest o ring in the kit in its place which slowed the leak way down but it still bothers me that it's leaking. looking like I'll get a replacement slide pin for now and a replacement pump this summer

deere country

If you have one leak at a crusty oring, most likely they are all the same age and not far behind in being another leak sometime in the near future. Do yourself a favor and reseal the entire pump, whatever you do do not use anything but the oem Bosch seal kit. They will work for another 25 plus years of dependable service.

As to your scratch in the pin, yes any minor imperfections in a steel surface will cause a cut in its sealing counterpart and likely a leak from it. I would have a used filler neck in the shop too if they really are that crazy at your local cummins store, pm me if you like.

oliver foster

Thanks Edwin,
I do have a spare oil filler pipe, but don't have a VE pump I am parting into individual pieces.
Sounds like you could PM either me or Deerecountry for a filler pipe for less than the $100 at the dealer.

bigredodge

just an update, i managed to uhm... "fix" my filler tube problem for now. i think i ground TOO much off my fuel pin and its causing my slide pin to pass the o-ring. i order a pack of viton o rings (just in case) and the longer slide pin from hungry diesel "p/n 1 463 105 364 "

i want to drive it soo bad but man that slide pin is leaking bad. plus my IC mounts didnt work out so well so im gonna fix that while im waiting for the stuff to come in.

bigragu im using your mount style, copying it to the T because it looks like it is a whole lot better than what i got lol

ill update probably next week when i have it all in!

thanks

Alec

Sounds as though you lost the flat washer that goes between the lever and the o-ring. That is an on the truck repair, unless you damaged the surface of the shaft.

And, the guide pin will leak if you grind the AFC pin too much . . . so, if you are lucky, that is the problem there. Can't you just turn the butchered AFC pin to see if that fixes the leak?

bigredodge

it's the simple things I tend to not think about
but as for the lever, that thick washer is in there, just not mating up to the lever like it should, kind of loose

bigragu

I'm trying to think, BRD, what mount style are you talking about that I did? Are you meaning how I mounted my PS Intercooler?

bigragu

Are you talking about how I isolated it from vibration like this?

bigragu

Or the protective hardware cloth over it like this?
I had to fab up a new channel to catch the hood support, all the way to the frame. I premeasured a lot, and came up with all sorts of heavy bracketry to make it a true bolt on deal.

Only hacking I did was enlarging the holes for the larger inlet and outlet piping, and some slight trimulation of the reveal metal below the grill.

bigredodge

talking about how you isolated it, I just got some 3/8 all thread so going to set it up now. worst part is I already cut a notch out of my valence but it's hidden anyways. might fill it in later but I'll have to repaint it