crossy

the A/c does not work on the 91 CTD or the 93 Cheby. It's that time of year that AC makes a big difference in a sale (cheby only)so what are current prices for a conversion to whatever works now versus the R12?? I'm guessing R12 is near extinct so what kind of pricing am i looking at for a conversion. these are regular cab trucks with light colored interiors so even the lousy cooling abilities of 134A (lousy in R12 designed systems) SHOULD be enough?but i know there ar a few other options now, right ??? . thanx , DAVID

Den

I retro'd my 91.5, Here are some of my notes from the time
*WARNING* CHECK PART NUMBERS FOR YOUR YEAR TRUCK!

Compressor is model SD-709
--------------------------------
Chrysler calls for
Oil Type - PAG20
R134a charge - 32/2.00 (oz/lbs)

Recommended Procedures for Sanden R-12 Compressors Retrofitted with R134a
http://www.sanden.com/support/RETRO.html

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PARTS
======

Conversion kit - AC RETRO KIT CHRYSLER - here
Factory Air 26243

Condenser (OEM 56003588) (note: plate and fin are best)
Autozone->TRANSPRO 636332 1 YR $162.99
Also Advance 53298
here


Hose assembly - Only one available. here
Advance Factory Air 55535
Rebuilt other at local shop (rehose)

Expansion Valve - here
Advance Factory Air 38849

Dryer/Acumultor - here
Advance Factory Air 33555

ackits.com- 57807MD Low/High Pressure Cut Switch ( HPCO) $19.58



===============
Other assorted stuff
===============

You need a CAN TAP! Examples - here

HPCO - retrofit - Four Seasons 59148 - Retrofit Manual here

Factory Air 26175
need 1: Carded; Hose Fittings; Block Type; Condenser $4

Factory Air 26170
need 2: Carded; Hose Fittings; Block Type; Receiver Drier; Metal Gasket $4



=============
Work to be done
=============

Minimum you need to do.....from a 40,000ft overview
Clean system. Replace valves and o-rings. Replace Dryer and expansion valve. Pull vacuum and hold. Refill system.

-I removed the compressor and cleaned it out using mineral spirits.
-One line I couldn't find. Had new hose installed at a local shop. Cheap
-Replaced all plumbing/parts even condensor. Everything but the evaporator under the dash. I flushed it out and blew air threw it.
-New cut-off switch.
-Added PAG oil
-Pulled vacuum using a handy pump I found here (NOTE: This site kicks *** and I have purchased items from this company. No problems)
-Added refrigerate using Yellow Jacket - Basic R134a Gauge Set with Hoses. Also includes couplers for 134a. I have used plenty of times afterwards. Worth the purchase. I've done prolly 6 or 7 jobs for freinds with it. Worth the $99 for a nice set of gauges.

========
Notes
========
There is a newer expansion valve suggested by Dodge. I'll have to dig around and find the info again. It's in a Dodge service release. I didn't replace mine with the newer, but I think I will. I'm guessing the valve orifice is a different size for the 134a. That would make a difference.

Possible source for expansion valve info
TSB Number Issue Date TSB Title
1. 240195A MAR 95 A/C - R-12 to R-134a Conversion Procedure

It sounds like a lot of work, but it wasn't that bad. I had never done a AC repair or retro and had no problems. Filling can be a little tricky till you figure out how the low and high sides react when filling. I had no air at all...dead. I think I spent $500 to redo everything (including tools) which wasn't bad. I live in FL and REALLY need that cold air. doing it's thing.

Den

Wanna..Looks like a another sticky

Den

Can anybody find/obtain the foll0wing? I looked on dodgeram.info. It's not listed

TSB Number Issue Date TSB Title

1. 240195A MAR 95 A/C - R-12 to R-134a Conversion Procedure


Den

wannadiesel

Not gonna argue with you there! Thanks for another definitive post.

Jim Lane

R-12 is still available if you can afford it, but I use Icor HotShot

http://www.icorinternational.com/hotshot_opening.html

It is a Drop In and needs no other modifications to the system. You do not use the sight glass but charge to 80% like most of the conversions.
This stuff really works well for me.
I checked the price last week and a 30# drum is now $230.00 up from $65.00 2 years ago.
Jim

rebal

heres some useful info on a/c recharge
http://members.tripod.com/~jbabs714/autoac.htm

charliex25

Crossy:

I may have the answer for you on your a/c. There is a product called red tekand it is a sealer ( if you have a leak ) or they just have the freon that is compatible with 12,134a/22/and many more coolants. This product has been kept a secret for a long time . I have had it in my system for two years with no problems. You may look this up on the internet at www.redtek.com This product has saved me and a lot of my friends$$$$$. Oh! and by the way I donot make any money from any sales of this product. Thank you. You may contact me if you wish for further info.

Charliex charliex@eritter.net

MoparMarv

I'm gathering all the stuff to convert my 1993 ram. If you can't flush all the mineral oil out of the system use POE oil instead of PAG. It will carry better thru the system with the 134a and will not mix with the mineral oil and settle to the low spot. If you flushed all or most of the old mineral oil out and your selling the truck PAG oil is the way to go. I only done one car in the past and it worked good and never had troubles. Make sure your reciever drier when you get it if you get one has the caps on it and has desicant that is R134 compatable. Thanks for the above post with the info on the conversion. Very helpful.

HappyCamper

Another Note: My son just did mine and we put a new expansion valve on - it was a superceded part number from the original. The sensor on the new valve mounted on the drivers side and not the passenger side. We needed to do some adjustment because the rubber boot was too tight against the fan housing.... I do not know if all the newer valves are like this or not, but thought I would throw the comment out there

rebal

I did one of my trucks that was dead and all i did was add R134a last year from a retro kit $44 and its blowing cold still ,I see no sign of a leak yet and seems to be fine.crossing fingers .