jimbo486

Another difference is in the a/c compressors. The non i/c, C-171 compressor sits slightly lower due to the bracket (aka water inlet connection) and also has a larger pulley compared to the i/c, Sanden SD709 compressor. Hence, the need for a longer belt. Which is also why, in 1990's case, the belt touches itself because the tensioner has more slack to take up.

Jim Lane

****************Belt Length Gates # Dayco #

1990-91 Without AC 64.50” 80645 KO80645 5080645
1990-91 With AC>> 81.50” 80816 KO80820 5080820

1991.5 Without AC 63.50” 80635 KO80635 5080635
1991.5 With AC>> 83.00” 80830 KO80830 5080830



**Note the factory parts manual lengths are different from what is suggested by the belt manufactures.

1990-91 Without AC Dodge recommends a 64.85” belt.
Gates recommends a 64.50” belt.

1990-91 With AC Dodge recommends a 81.75” belt.
Gates recommends a 81.50” belt.


1991.5 Without AC Dodge recommends a 00.00 belt.
Gates recommended 63.50” belt

1991.5 With AC Dodge Recommends 82.09” belt.
Gates Recommends 83.00” belt


Dayco Belt Tensioner:

#89005 Replaces the Idler Pulley Only Approx. $22.00

#89219 Complete Tensioner Assembly Approx $100.00

All of the belts above range from $36.00 to $50.00

To help decipher the manufactures part numbers,

Example: 80645 belt
KO 80645 Gates
50 80645 Dayco

To find the length of a belt:
KO80645 = 64.50” belt

KO80830 = 83.00 belt.

This should make it a bit easier to figure out the size of your belt for your conversion.

I will correct or add to this as I collect information.
I will also see if I can put this in the sticky for future reference.

Jim

1990

So i got a new Gatorback belt. Just over a 1/8th inch of clearance between the tensioner and the belt running down to the a/c compressor.


I'm thinking of making up small spacers for the compressor.

Jim Lane

Jimbo,
I know this an old thread but how did you finally get all of your new hose and fittings connected?
How is your system working?

Did you use your factory evaporator?
Mine had a leak so I had to replace it with an aftermarket unit, what a nightmare, I rejected about 5 or 6 of them before I got one that I felt I could use, I had to rebend the lines to even get it in the case.

How have you been?

Thanks Jim

thrashingcows

I think Jimbo went to the complete IC style A/C system when he converted the truck to the IC front end. But I could be remembering it wrong?

jimbo486

Brian, you're correct. I did convert over to the Sanden SD709 compressor after converting the entire front end and engine to factory i/c. I just bought the crimp fittings I needed to fit the compressor and barrier hose (-10 and -8, IIRC). Nothing inside the heater box changed, still using the factory evaporator. Bought a new dryer for the system as well since its recommended to change if the system is ever exposed to atmosphere.

My friend who was in the automotive heating/cooling business for 30 years had the hose and crimp tool needed to build the lines. He borrowed the flanged ends at the condenser and evaporator to have the crimps brazed onto the steel or aluminum tubing (I forget the material).

We built everything at his house, ran the lines away from any potential damaging sources, bolted everything in place and charged the system with R-134a and a fluorescent dye to detect leaks at any time.

The system has been running great and gets plenty cool enough for me!

I've heard quite a few stories about the aftermarket evaporator cores fitting like crap and the supply and return tubes aren't quite the correct angle they should be.

Hunted and pecked from a Galaxy S4A.

Jim Lane

I know this is an old post but it has been ongoing,
I have recently converted my truck to the Sanden SD-709, everything has fit together nicely but what I have discovered,
I was able to use my existing K080830 belt and it fit but it was tight, see how close the idler is the the belt, I need you to tell me how close yours is on your truck so I can have an idea if mine it too tight or not.



What I find is although the tensioners are the same, there is a hole on the bracket where the tensioner indexes is in a slightly different location on the new intercooled bracket clocking the tensioner pulley at a new angle where a shorter belt might not fit over the tensioner and a longer belt might cause the belt to rub, still under the experimental phase.

I want to be careful and not put too much tension on the new compressor bearing by loading the belt to tight, I am sure I could re-index the tensioner if I had to, anyone else have this issue, I will not call it a problem.

Jim

jimbo486

I'm at work today but have my truck with me. Give me a few hours and I'll check the gap you mentioned.

You might be on to something with that. Looking closely at the pictures in Brian's first few posts, it appears that the index "notch" on the non i/c water inlet connection is 90* to the block. Whereas, the index "notch" on the i/c water inlet connection is at a slightly downward angle. That angle does appear that it would index the tensioner and pulley as such, closing the gap between it and the belt on the passenger side of the alternator and a/c compressor pulleys.

j_martin

I think you'll find that the tension difference between just off the stop, and fully wound is very little. Total travel on the tension mechanism is a fraction of total travel on the spring within it.

jimbo486

Jim,

I'm assuming when you converted, you only changed over to the i/c water inlet connection and the SD709 a/c compressor. Correct? You still have the non i/c fan hub/pulley bracket which moves the fan hub/pulley towards the driver side slightly? To the right if you're facing the engine from the front, looking down at it. The i/c fan hub/pulley bracket appears to be centered directly in front of the 4 bolts holding it to the block.

Believe it or not, the non i/c, a/c belt is actually shorter (81.6") than the i/c a/c belt (83"). Strangely, there's only a 1" difference between the non a/c belt for the 2 types. These are the numbers I'm coming up with from a quick search.

Anyhow, I have the i/c fan hub/pulley bracket on my motor along with the water inlet connection and SD709 compressor. I'm utilizing the Gates K080830HD belt and a tensioner, of course. The tensioner is the same from '89-'02, according to Geno's Garage. I didn't notice a lot of slack to take up when I slipped the belt over the alternator pulley. The attached picture shows you where my tensioner sits.

Jim Lane

The first thing I do is compare and document everything

Here is the new bracket that I installed, here the slot is maybe a 1/2" off towards the bottom of the block, .



And now here is the old bracket, see how the slot is almost straight across from the bolt tensioners bolt hole, with the length of the tensioners arm the pulley has now moved a decent amount.



As it sits I am not overly concerned about the tension but I do not want to put any unnessicayr load on it either, but if I want to make the belt a little longer so it easier to get on then the belts might rub.



I was thinking I could cut the slot a little wider back towards centerline, tension should pull towards the new cut, correct?
I would use my 4" angle grinder to make the cut.

Has anyone else run into this problem, I do not think a 2nd gen fan pulley would make any difference as far as the location of the tensioner pulley.

Jim

Jim Lane

Jim,
We must have both posted at the same time, if you look at the back of the tensioner you can see the paint markings from where it used to set on the old bracket, my belts have always a little different because I have the Leece Neville alternator, I think reclocking the tensioner notch will fix the problem.



The K080830 belt fits and if the tension is ok I would still like to make it a bit easier to install the belt in case of an emergency and I did not have all of my special tools with me.

Jim

Jim Lane

Hey Jimbo,
I need you to think back a few days ago, when you got the AC fittings for your new Sanden SD-709 compressor.



I understand the fittings are #8 and #10 at the compressor, but what is the thread pitch, are they a standard
#8 = 3/4"-16
#10 =7/8"-14
OR
are they metric?

I bought the NEW SD-709 from Oreillys
Murray #78594

Nobody can seem to give me an answer, they can come either way.

When did the truck become metric?

Do you have an pictures of your new lines?

Thanks Jim

jimbo486

Jim,

The spec sheet for the Sanden SD7 series compressors is listing them under the torque specs to be SAE; #8 - 3/4" and #10 - 7/8".

Pictures of the lines can be found in my retrofit thread.

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...trofit-296200/

thrashingcows

Archived.....link below if pics stop working.

https://web.archive.org/web/20171028...-ic-ic-289065/