I have spent a lot of time, effort and money trying to get my brakes to work properly. I have read posts from many first geners with the exact same problems and getting pretty much the same responses. I went completely through the system and it seemed that each thing that I did helped a little, but there was always a problem crop up.

The latest was that, at very slow speeds, usually while backing, the pedal would go all the way to the floor, but the antilock and brakes lights did not come on. I had this feeling that the dump valve was opening, because that is how it felt. It had been nagging at me that maybe the problem was in the ECM, so I bought one reman, part #ABS560005 Raybestos. Around 100 bucks after core return. I just installed it and went on a little drive. I gotta say.... WOW, but I do not want to get too excited. I will see if anything pops up, but it appears that this may be something to consider and not that expensive...What do you guys think? ...Mark

 

Mark,

I'm in the same boat as you.

So I gotta know. 4 months later you got a final verdict for the final solution?

Thanks!

Murf

 

They are still working great. The only thing that I have to do is readjust the rears, because I don't back-up enough to keep them adjusted Oh well, if you cannot go forward, then whats the use. So far and no failures, to the floor nightmares or antilock lights coming on...I hope this nightmare is over...Mark

 

Good tip.

 

An ECM fixed brake problems?

 

The brake module behind the glove box...Mark

 

The ABS control module is what that is. What exactly did you notice after the replacement compared to before you replaced it? Pedal stiffness, etc.

 

It has not, for 4 months, gone to the floor. After replacing every component of the system, except this one, it would, from time to time, go to the floor. For giggles, I replaced the ecm, no more going to floor, for 4 months, Gosh I hope this doesn't jinx it...

 

hey-Hey!!!,
With ABS light lit, rear locks too soon. With ABS light out...I get to experience the less-than-perfect Rear Antilock brakes this beastie came with. Is there some other model's proportioning valve that would shift the bias to more front?
cheers,
Douglas

--sorry to hijack, but the brake guys are here!

 

There are people here on the board that have put adjustable proportioning valves on their rigs. Maybe they will chime in...Mark

 

If you want to get rid of your ABS system then you could re-plumb up your own brake system. I did this on my 68 Chrysler T/C Wagon, which is a 4000+ beast with a 440 over the front wheels.

I removed the original proportioning valve, and then "T" the front brake lines together, then straight off the master cylinder rear port. Then for the rear brakes I installed a SSBC manual adjustable brake valve between the master cylinder and the rear brake line. Car stops way better then it ever did before!!

I personally would not hesitate to do this to my truck if the original proportioning valve was ever giving me any grief.

 

You gotta honest to goodness prop valve on your first gen, and NOT the combination valve?

If so, Puuulllease tell me more!
I need info on what's stock and what ain't

Sorry for the Hijack Mark!

Murf

 

When I redid the brakes in my jeep, I got rid of the combo/prop. valve. I ran a single brake line to the front, tee'd at the axle and the line for the rear comes into the cab to a line lock and then a Wilwood adjustable prop valve, then onto the rear brakes.

Works great after some tweaking. The line lock sucks, but never had any issue with the prop. valve.

 

the system in our 1st gens is real finicky every part has to be doing its job right to have good brakes . I did this last year, got tired of crummy brakes and i replaced every part but the steel lines . my brakes are now orgasmic

 

what a poor design! Any failure mode with abs should revert to regular BRAKES. Dodge engineering should be shot for this.

Mine intermittently won't stop worth beans. I thought the collective was a brake booster? But maybe this will be on the list also. I have only replaced the m/c with a new one (no rebuilds here).

M