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Brake Booster - How to tell if it's bad?

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Old Sep 3, 2010 | 03:47 PM
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Brake Booster - How to tell if it's bad?

Hi all, in the midst of replacing stuff, I thought since I was replacing my brake master cyclinder I would replace the booster as well as I figured it probably was shot.

I haven't tested vacum off the pump, but I'm pretty sure it's working as all the other stuff like heater control, cruise and that stuff work.

So here's my problem. I have a leak coming from the brake master cyclinder. It's baically being pushed out the top cover and I think (but not sure) leaking at the backside.

So would that mean there's something wrong with the brake booster? I bought the pickup this way, so there is no before and after comparsion of how the pedal felt before, but it does requier a lot of effort to make the tank stop. Not to mention the ABS light comes on ever time I hit the pedal and sometimes stays on, but there's NO code at the computer.

Thanks
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Old Sep 3, 2010 | 04:02 PM
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How did you check for the abs codes they are not stored in the pcm. Cycling the key will not show abs codes.
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Old Sep 3, 2010 | 10:26 PM
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If the master leaked out the back, the booster will die soon anyway.
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Old Sep 4, 2010 | 02:13 AM
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I just did a master in booster in my truck. One good way to tell if its bad is if its making a weezing sound when u hit the brakes. My setup actually blew my master seal out and pushed fluid into my booster.... replaced it and found out I have a leaking caliper piston
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Old Sep 4, 2010 | 03:53 AM
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A bad vacuum brake-booster will sort of fight against you pushing on the brake-pedal.

When you hit the brakes hard, it will actually shove back at you.

Really easing into the pedal will yield a hissing wheezing sound.

The only thing in there to fail is a big rubber diaphragm.

What happens is the rubber gets old and dry-cracked, often caused by chemical intrusion, such as oil, fuel, or brake-fluid.

A little pin-hole starts and slowly gets bigger until the vacuum-pump can't over-ride the loss.
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Old Sep 4, 2010 | 05:57 AM
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more years ago than i like to think about. we started with the engine not running. put pressure on the brake peddle start vehicle one can feel the peddle go down slightly if the booster is working properly
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Old Sep 4, 2010 | 12:23 PM
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Thanks for the replies. I'll give these a shot and see what happens. I did notice that the brake master cyclinder said "Reman" on it in yellow paint before taking her to the car wash. Brake booster looks to be the original as it has a mopar part number on it.

I've tried hitting the brake pedal when the engine is off, the vacum seems like it's still there. First time I push the pedal it goes down effortlessly, then after that there's no vacum assit.

Could this be something else downstream in the system like the rear ABS actuator or maybe something else?!

Thanks
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Old Sep 4, 2010 | 08:55 PM
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Originally Posted by serious
Thanks for the replies. I'll give these a shot and see what happens. I did notice that the brake master cyclinder said "Reman" on it in yellow paint before taking her to the car wash. Brake booster looks to be the original as it has a mopar part number on it.

I've tried hitting the brake pedal when the engine is off, the vacum seems like it's still there. First time I push the pedal it goes down effortlessly, then after that there's no vacum assit.

Could this be something else downstream in the system like the rear ABS actuator or maybe something else?!

Thanks
If it is bad, I would buy a matched, mated mc and booster. Costs about the same as the total of each, and you do not have to worry about rod adjustment or mating them, as far as if it could be the abs modulator valve, Of course These brakes are maddening ...Mark

Last edited by maybe368; Sep 4, 2010 at 08:57 PM. Reason: spelling
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