Got one leaking, hiss under the dash, not much for brakes at idle.

Any advice on a replacement? What to avoid, good one to get, etc.

 

Geesh, everything crapping out at once on you?

 

With two 21 year old trucks and a 21 year old rice burner, plus a 25 year old light 4x4, I expect some maintenance issues. The Dodges always start and haul freight when asked, even if they're a little under the weather.

This one's been used mostly for short haul firewood and dirt. Been ignoring the hiss for months. It looks like a friend needs it to haul his camper, so I'm getting motivated to catch up on things a bit.

 

Bought a Napa one , on a year so far and no issues. Measured for free play adjustment so brakes wouldnt drag bang on out of the box . Masking and painting it took longer than installing it.

 

Hydroboost from a 2nd gen

 

reman boosters are great, reasonable priced

 

With the help of a friend tracked down an OEM one. It's out in a shed if it exists, and the dealer wants $346 +S&H for it. Who knows what diaphragm debilitating atmosphere it's been in all these years.

I can sort through a few BrakeBest reman units for that. It'll have a lifetime warranty. Who knows what diaphragm debilitating

 

Good luck with it. I do recommend you stay away from Cardone brand reman units, which were the only reman units I could find when I was looking. Some 3+ years ago, after my Cardone booster failed in less than four weeks, I found and purchased an OEM unit. Although expensive, it has performed perfectly, and has potentially saved me the labor of replacing a reman every few months...

 

Thanks, Jim, for your help and concern. It looks like I'll go with Oreilly's BrakeBest unless I get a big negative rise here first. I've had pretty good luck with Oreilly's house brands, and it's 20 bucks cheaper than NAPA.

It's hard to justify over $300 for a beater that is likely going to be a parts truck soon. It runs good, but if you could throw the cat through it with the doors closed. It's pretty amazing, the windows still operate like a guillotine, and everything works except cruise.

 

Bought a NAPA booster and put it in. Brake light switch got mashed to always on. Booster doesn't stop pedal return when it should .
2 days wait for a replacement. Couple hours time and a rattle can of black paint wasted.

 

Well I guess we have second vote on not using the NAPA ones. I will probably go with the booster, and MC combo through O'Reillys when I need to replace mine.

 

The only things that I will buy from NAPA don't have any moving parts.
That would be bolts and only if they are the only one that has them.

 

I'm going to check the next one out, throw it in and test it for a week before I bother painting it. Got it down to about 20 minutes in and out.

First time was tough. Had to have the DW stand on the brakes while I beat on the master cylinder with a rubber hammer to get it to let go from the booster. I cleaned it up with sandpaper and put a real thin coat of SilGlyde on it before I put it up to the new booster.

I have a new Bendix master cylinder to put in. I'm going to wait till I do some other brake work if I can before I install it, mostly to be sure all the bleeders are free.

Does anybody know where I can buy a 9/16" -20 (not 18) inverted flare nut, either 3/16" or 1/4" tube?

 

If I were at that point I would sure seriously consider the Hydro boost.
I put one in my jeep whit braded hoses the pedal feel is rock solid and with almost twice the line pressure.

 

This one ain't worth it unless I happen to find a decent body for it.