1st Gen. Ram - All Topics Discussion for all Dodge Rams prior to 1994. This includes engine, drivetrain and non-drivetrain discussions. Anything prior to 1994 should go in here.

Body swap progress

Old Nov 27, 2008 | 06:12 PM
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From: Rochester Mn.
Angry Body swap progress

Ater more than three months of trying I finally got the Army M37 3/4 ton P U to put it's body onto a 1990 W2500 CTD Dodge. You would not believe what it took to pin that guy down!!
I've got the 90 stripped of it's body and took some rough measuerments of the two frames. They are amazingly similar in width, even as they taper at the front. Older vehicles did not have the motor overhang the front wheel centerline as in late models. The motor will have to be moved to the rear about 8 inches, and the frame shortened about 12 inches,and the cowl of the cab lengthened about 5" to get the Cummins to fit. The engine will tuck under the cowl a little as on 2nd gen Dodges. the Dodge is a standard cab, 8 foot box, the M37 is a 6 1/2 foot box. The 90 had a step bumper with a receiver hitch below it that was made of 1/2" x6" angle iron and welded to the frame and bumper brackets. After I cut it off I tried to pick it up Man was it heavy. I put it on a scale and the whole assembly weighed 220 lbs!!!!
Now for some questions.
What is the vacuum switch that is below the driver side hood hinge ( 3"round)? plus, the black plastic box (3"x4") on the firewall between the brake master and the hood hinge.
Finally, from what I gather, the only power that I need to make the engine run is the fuel shutoff.. and the KSB and the intake heater, in cold weather.Plus starter and charging of course.
I'm going to run new mechanical / electric guages and try to figure out a mechanical speedometer. ad removed
Thanks Ray
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Old Nov 27, 2008 | 06:26 PM
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pics ?????
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Old Nov 27, 2008 | 09:43 PM
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From: New Holland, PA
Originally Posted by Old-stuff
What is the vacuum switch that is below the driver side hood hinge ( 3"round)? plus, the black plastic box (3"x4") on the firewall between the brake master and the hood hinge.
Finally, from what I gather, the only power that I need to make the engine run is the fuel shutoff.. and the KSB and the intake heater, in cold weather.Plus starter and charging of course.
I'm going to run new mechanical / electric guages and try to figure out a mechanical speedometer. ad removed
Thanks Ray
Vacuum switch turns on the red "BRAKE" warning light on the dash if the vacuum pump craps out. You don't need it - the hard brake pedal will let you know you have no vacuum.

The box is the brain box that runs the grid heaters and the KSB. It's not super hard to keep it, I don't think it's much harder than hooking up a momentary switch for the grids.

If you want you can just run switched power to the shutoff solenoid and the KSB. The grids really don't do much for cold starts until temps get below 20 degrees.
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Old Nov 28, 2008 | 07:55 AM
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From: all over see below
this thread is not allowed unless pics are posted
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Old Nov 28, 2008 | 08:48 PM
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From: Rochester Mn.
Thanks Dave, for the wiring advice.
I just got a digital camera. Maybe tomorrow i'll try to post some pics.
The trucks are in a small shop, so I'll have to experiment a little to get the lighting and distance for the camera.

Ray
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