Battery terminal question
Battery terminal question
I had to get a new battery today and after researching in this forum I elected to get the stud type post. Starting to doubt that bit of wisdom now. Anyway is the positive battery cable a 1/0 gage? What is the best way to secure a connector ring to the cable (solder or crimp)? A guy at advance said to go to a shop where they install audio systems to get the battery terminal loop. Are the ones for audio systems going to be heavy enough? Suggestions or tips from folks who have converted from post and terminals to studs are welcomed. Thanks.
Get yourself some big copper ring-terminals, get two or three sizes, so that you are sure to have the right ones.
You need 3/8" holes in them; but, sometimes you can only find 1/2" holes, they will work fine.
Take a drill-press vise, or something similar, and cradle a short piece of heavy angle-iron, VALLEY UP, in the vise.
After trimming the correct amount of insulation from the cable, stick the trimmed end into a jar of VASELINE, then stick it in the lug that fits the best, as far as it will go.
Now, have the wife hold the terminal and cable snuggly together, with the terminal shank resting in the VALLEY of the angle-iron.
Take a bluntly sharpened punch and strike two evenly spaced dimples in the terminals shank, thus CRIMPING it to the cable.
Drive these dimples down pretty tight.
I have crimped dozens of cables in this manner with never a failure.
If you are fairly handy, you can make your own terminals out of 1/2, or 3/4, copper tubing, i.e. water line.
A welding supply is the best cheapest source of terminal ends.
They can look at your cables and tell what size they will need.
They can also crimp the ends on for you.
Also, any respectable auto-parts store will have them, commonly called copper-cable-lugs.
You can also buy post adapters that screw over the studs, permitting you to use your existing cable ends, until you get the copper ends crimped on.
You will love the stud type batteries, once you get the cables changed over.
This is the first modification I do to all my vehicles.
Life is so much simpler, once the old post-style ends go in the trash.
You need 3/8" holes in them; but, sometimes you can only find 1/2" holes, they will work fine.
Take a drill-press vise, or something similar, and cradle a short piece of heavy angle-iron, VALLEY UP, in the vise.
After trimming the correct amount of insulation from the cable, stick the trimmed end into a jar of VASELINE, then stick it in the lug that fits the best, as far as it will go.
Now, have the wife hold the terminal and cable snuggly together, with the terminal shank resting in the VALLEY of the angle-iron.
Take a bluntly sharpened punch and strike two evenly spaced dimples in the terminals shank, thus CRIMPING it to the cable.
Drive these dimples down pretty tight.
I have crimped dozens of cables in this manner with never a failure.
If you are fairly handy, you can make your own terminals out of 1/2, or 3/4, copper tubing, i.e. water line.
A welding supply is the best cheapest source of terminal ends.
They can look at your cables and tell what size they will need.
They can also crimp the ends on for you.
Also, any respectable auto-parts store will have them, commonly called copper-cable-lugs.
You can also buy post adapters that screw over the studs, permitting you to use your existing cable ends, until you get the copper ends crimped on.
You will love the stud type batteries, once you get the cables changed over.
This is the first modification I do to all my vehicles.
Life is so much simpler, once the old post-style ends go in the trash.
What is wrong with post type batteries? I seem to like them more than the side post ones!! And good call on the type M copper use, I had never thought of that, I have used pipe pieces to repair starters, But not to make rings from, Thanks!!!
Peter.
Peter.
another option for new cables is http://custombatterycables.com/
The STUD type batteries we are referring to are NOT side-post, which are junk, in my opinion.
STUD type batteries are what are used on most big trucks and lots of heavy equipment.
They have 3/8x16 threaded studs, instead of lead posts.
A couple of advantages of STUD type batteries is no lead to corrode, and the ease of cable removal/replacement.
The cables are held on by either a wing-nut, or a standard -- usually flanged -- nut.
Cables can easily be removed/replaced, in seconds, with no tools -- in the case of wing-nuts.
Safety is another big plus; if you are having an electrical fire situation, the seconds saved not having to fight with properly clamped on lead terminals could save your truck.
Also, lead terminals require wrenches to loosen; whereas, a wing-nut can be jarred loose with any old rock, the back-side of a pocket-knife, whatever is handy, which just might let you get the cable off seconds before the wiring harness burns.
Here is what I do, so that I am ready for stud-type batteries, when the need arises.
I have actually worked through the battery conversions of all our vehicles in this manner.
Walmart sells a pair of MARINE terminals, for about three bucks, that convert lead-post batteries to threaded studs.
I keep a few sets of these on hand.
Before I get caught with a dead battery, as time allows, I convert the cables, from lead-terminals, to copper-lug ring-terminals, installing the marine adapters on the lead post to accept the new battery end.
Sometimes, I may do one cable, and it be weeks before the other gets done.
Once I get the cables converted to copper-lug ring-terminals, I am already ready when the battery gives up the ghost; this way, I am not forced to buy a battery I do not want.
I also keep a pair of the marine adapters in the truck, for the un-likely event that I have to use a post-type battery; which is highly unlikely, as I have THREE Group 31S batteries in my truck.
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I appreciate all the responses and recommendations. I found some post adapters at ABC Auto. I thought it was going to be a problem when Advance Auto didn't have them. I am going to make a new set of cables and start using studs instead of the post adapters.
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