1985cucv

mine cost me 30 bucks 6 cans of camo flat brown. and away you go. looks pretty good. if i were you though and you want it done right do it yourself. research it and get the tools. it is tedious work but in the end you can say you did it and it will look good. the painting isnt the hard part its the prep.

NotEnufGarage

Another option, if you want to save money but want a good paint job is to do the prep yourself, then take it to Maaco or Miracle and have them primer and paint it. By prep, I mean removing everything you can remove (door locks, window trim, bumpers, grille, emblems, etc. and then fixing any body damage and filling all the paint chips, then completely sanding the whole truck so the new paint has something to bite to. You don't have to completely sand off the old color, just give the paint shop a nice flat, even surface to start with. To go even one step further, you might want to remove the windshield, rear window, wing vents and door handles. You'd probably have to have the truck towed in at that point.

If you do this, don't opt for their cheapest paint. Go with a base coat, clear coat system. The clear coat usually has UV inhibitors which will make the color last longer and give a better shine. Ask for an extra coat or two of clear on top of the base coat so if you have to do some wet sanding afterward to remove orange peel you have enough material to work with.

I did something similar with my '93 D250 about 8 years ago. Since it's just a beater truck, I didn't want to spend much on paint. I stripped the peeling paint, sanded it and took off what was easy to remove (emblems, grille, bumpers, lights). Miracle then painted it with commercial white single stage, 2 coats for about $400. I spent 3 days prepping it (had to fix a couple dents) and another day putting it back together. The paint is beginning to lose its shine now, but it still looks decent from 10 feet. If I'd used better paint, it'd probably look a whole lot better now.

Jim Lane

It is called Dark Grey Metallic Quartz (I think).

I will try and remember to get the Paint Code when I go the Body Shop next week; someone crunched my passenger side rear fender.

He is checking to see if he can still get one from the dealer and if he can’t then they are going to remove it and I will leave it there so they can repair it so I will not be without my truck for 2 days.

The mud flap is mounted to the frame.

There is also a Clear Coat on the top.
Jim

daking

Ya, i would expext it to be pristen after a 6gs paint job, and it is

im thinking of spray painting my truck with rocker guard, wont look to bad, and plus if it gets scrached up a bit from off roading then it wont matter, it would be just a shame to spend 4gs on a good paint job and then to scrach it offroading

local601

I would love to get my truck like Jims, that looks great. I might give this a try at least the prep work. I have 2 or 3 friends that USED to lay paint, if I do the prep maybe I can get them to moonlight a little on laying it on. Save alot of cake this way. My friends and I usually only charge each other a beer an hr. for our trades, maybe a beer and a half with the fuel prices these days. thanks guys.

Jim Lane

I like that Barter system but I have found out that it is usually better to hold all of the Payments until after the job is completed.

In the final stage before you shoot the primer and paint be sure the surface is Clean and free of everything.

Even the oil from a fingerprint can mess it up and leave a Fisheye in the finished paint.
I have seen jobs messed up by someone applying Armor All to their tires across the street and the wind blew it the wrong direction.

You don’t need a booth either, I had painted my last truck an my sons VW Bug with professional results in a carport by hanging up plastic around the vehicle and then have a hose running on low on the floor to keep down any dust.

Also especially if you shoot with a 2 part paint be sure to use a Respirator because it is really toxic and about 15 minuets into the job you start to get a headache and above all Don’t smoke.
Jim

Jim Lane

Here it is guys,

I just got my rear fender out of the Body Shop today and I ask him to get me the paint code.

PPG Industries:
OEM Code PD9
Description: Dark Quartz Gray Poly
Mixing Scheme: ENVIROBASE HP (EHP M)

I do not know how much a gallon would cost but to paint my Right Rear Fender the cost for the paint was $67.60. This is probably what Mitchell tells to charge to do 1 fender and not the actual paint used.

To repair and refinish the one fender cost $615.37

He also gave me about 2 ounces of the remaining paint for touch up.

Jim