mine is white, aluminum "alcoa" wheels, looks fairly clean save for a couple of flaked spots, has cabover camper on it for the summer

 

I am thinking I have seen it.

 

This post has me curious. I'm with Oliver on this one, that maybe the front seal on the VE let go.
Oliver, when those seals go, is it mainly a rupture on the edge of the seal, or does the whole seal typically pop off and work its way into the timing case cavity?

 

Too much fuel pressure can force the whole seal out of the counter bore it is pressed into.

 

based on my extensive internet forum research and comments/help/advice in this thread and from another forum- I am also thinking shaft seal. I do have VE pump re-seal/re-build kit but do not have the tools required to remove the pump. It would be great iof there were way to be sure it was that seal before ordering expensive tools and tearing into a big job. Is there a way to rule out stuck/bad injector? Can a bad injector dump a bunch of fuel into the block so quickly?......

 

the seal is easy to replace without disassembling the pump. If the pump is otherwise good I wouldn't bother resealing it.

I couldn't find a pressure rating on that lift pump If it is the second gen high pressure pump it may have just pusshed the seal out. That would be like disconnecting the line that feeds the VE and putting it into the oil filler tube. It would fill fairly fast.

 

If you do pull the pump to put in a new seal look in the sticky here. I think there is a thread on installing retainer screws into the IP to hold the new seal in place. Some people use red loctite on the seal instead.

 

Also, if I may add, if you're needing to remove the VE pump, please watch the set of 3 videos on YouTube on all the steps required prior to removal of the pump. Don't try and go into that blindly. Do you have the shop manual for your year truck? If not, get the manual from Genosgarage.com. They have it in book and cd versions

 

Joel, in a pinch, get a set of the S wrenches from Harbor freight. I believe it's the 13mm your after in that set. That, along with a crows foot in 17mm to help remove the injector lines are the two out of ordinary tools you'll need to remove that pump and its njector lines. You'll have 3- 13mm nuts to remove the pump flange from the timing case and 1- 10mm nut on the pump brace.
But, before removing the pump, first thing you'll have to do is remove the oil pressure sending unit. Then the vac and power steering pump as an assembly, then the VE pump. Do not switch around this order of removal, or you risk damaging an expensive oil pressure sensor!

 

To add to that I pulled my injection pump gear with a steering wheel puller.

 

vac pump has to come off?

For some reason I cannot view the pics in the stickied tutorial threads, anyone know how to fix that?

 

That has become a problem due to Photoshop holding them ransom unless you pay them...

 

Photobucket is holding them for random. if the OP pays a fee the pictures will reappear.

 

time to cancel my photobucket account, havent used it in a few years anyway....imgur is free

 

I do not pull the power steering or vacuum pump to remove the VE. In fact I don't remove the oil pressure sender either but then again I am a professional.

IIRC Chrysler only paid like 1.3 to R&R that pump so removing all those other things was not going to happen.