the KSB is what raise the timing when eng is cold(cold weather)
It is that syllinder type thing that you can see at the lower part of the pump. small fuel line rapping around the top and a single wire conected to the eather end of it.

 

Bumping the timeing, even an 1/16" will make it a lot more responsive down low. Most guys do a 1/8

that bottom bolt can be had by using a S wrench that can be had from habor frieght for cheap!

allso there is (4) bolt to be loosened. three on the front of the pump and one on the back of the pump(brace or support)
It take a pry bar, evan after the four bolts are remove to move the pump!

 

I'm guessing this is it...

pointing to one of the wires...




what effect is it having on mine right now? the connector I pointed to is in bad shape, so I'm not sure if it's actually making good contact or not...

Greg

 

I bought the S-wrenches...got the easy bolt, and the one you can kinda get over the top...

the S-wrench just didn't seem to fit right...I could get it on the nut, but then there was no room to turn it...

Greg

 

Get the torch out and make them fit
the top one you can us a socket and and ext. to get the top one........I now this is difficolt with or non intercooled bracket in the way!

I ground a notch in my stander wrench so that i could get the top one!

 

Yours should be advancing the timing when the engine is cold, and allowing normal timing once the engine is warmed up.

Bumping the timing won't speed spool-up, but it does make the truck feel "snappier."

If you have the star wheel bottomed out and the smoke screw turned in all the way and it's still doggy, I have to wonder if the fuel pin is stuck. Have you checked to see if it pops out when the throttle linkage is cycled?

 

smoke screw is just two turns...

I wouldn't say it's doggy...it just REALLY pulls hard around 2K and not before...

the fuel pin itself (assuming you mean the Old Smokey pin I put in) couldn't actually be stuck...but I guess the diaphragm could? what exactly are you referring to, and how would I check it?

Greg

 

there is a small pin that rides on the old smokey pin, or stock pin for that matter.
this pin (not the old smoky pin) holdsideward tention on the pin (smoky pin) and is what regualate the fuel, as the smoke pin is moved up and down by the boost signal..........is the small tube that gos from the the manifold to the pump, cracked or not tight at the intake?

 

is the small pin on the grille side of the pump? and would slip into the "notch" in the Old Smokey pin?

the small tube appears to be OK (no crack) and is tight on the pump, but I haven't checked it on the manifold end...

it's raining right now, and I'm not in that big of a rush to go check...

it towed pretty good, but I did stay off of it a little after a minor "problem"...I built enough boost to blow the 3" silicone elbow off my adapter...I knew it wasn't clamped down real good, but it never blew when I was out running 35+ PSI last night testing it...

it blew after having to get going from a stop sign again...probably had slowly been working itself free...

I worked on the adapter after I got home, before the rain started, and got the clamp pushed down another 1/4"-3/8", and I feel much better about it...

EGT's were a little too high for my liking...hitting 1200F-1300F on some inclines, but nothing like what I'd pull through the mountains...

HOWEVER, I wasn't fully into the pedal and tried to stay under 20PSI, so it may not be too bad...

I am considering turning the smoke screw back to stock, since (according to the Tech info) it raises the EGT's on climbs...

I may try to work on the timing again sometime later this week...would help it make it a little more peppy, plus lower the EGT's...maybe 1/16"?

I will say it towed MUCH better than my last trip!!!

Greg

 

anybody think 1/2-1 turn of the full power screw would help? especially if I turn the smoke screw back, and maybe even back off the AFC adjustment a bit?

or is it just gonna kill my EGTs?

Greg

 

Yes, exactly. When you move the throttle lever to "WOT", it should pop out about 3/8". When you release the throttle lever, you should be able to push it back in easily with a screwdriver.
That's a good thing to check.
Try the hairspray on the boots trick. If that doesn't hold 'em you'll have to try to roll a bead in the tube, or lay a bead of weld on it .
Don't be afarid to downshift and wind it up. RPM is your friend.
The smoke screw only affects EGT under low boost/high load situations. Once you get over 10-15 psi, no matter where the star wheel is set the AFC cone has moved at least some. Use the smoke screw to set the smoke "puff" on takeoff/shift recovery. Yes, if you haven't bumped it yet go with the traditional 1/8" bump.

 

I know I had to push it in once to get the fuel pin back in...

what do I need to test? pull the full pin out...push the pin in...and then move the throttle lever and make sure it pops out?



I think it's on there now...if not, I'm gonna redo it by taking the spacer off the top and putting it on the bottom, just so I can clamp it a little lower...and at the same time, I could get a bead run it, and use hairspray when reinstalling it...


that's what I wanted to do...but after popping the silicone elbow twice, I tried to stay off the throttle too much...


gotcha...any other tips on getting to the third nut to loosen the pump?

I did notice today that rolling into it a little slower, I can actually feel it start to takeoff around 1500-1600RPM...if I move the idle up from 600 to 800 (as in the discussion in the other topic), I've got a small window to fool with now...

any thought on the 1/2-1 full power adjustment?

Greg

 

It's working then. I've never had any trouble getting it with the Harbor Freight "S" wrench. You only get a little bit at a time.
You can always back it off if you don't like it.

 

is it going to increase EGT's?

or increase boost?

or both?

or let me run same speed with less pedal?


main objective is to get it all working where EGT's aren't really an issue for towing 6000lbs...even through the mountains...

I'd REALLY like to get it setup to tow a 2-car trailer without worrying about EGT's...but that's not first priority?

Greg

 

Both.Yes, but it will use the same amount of fuel.
If you want to be able to just floor it and hold the pedal down, then you will need to either turn the truck down or get twins.

For a dual use truck (toy that has to tow) a valet switch is a great tool. A valet switch is a solenoid valve that can block off the boost to the AFC. You would set the pump up (main fuel screw adjustment, also the smoke screw and AFC cone rotation affect this slightly) so that with no boost to the AFC, you could flog the truck mercilessly and still not have EGT trouble. My truck makes 250 RWHP/ 650 ft. lb. in this mode. EGT will not exceed 1150 no matter how long I hold the pedal. If I flip the valet switch to allow boost into the AFC and I have my monster back.