as in back the smoke screw out...back the AFC back...get rid of the Old Smokey fuel pin...and what else?



this sounds ideal...

do you have a write-up for this on DTR somewhere?

if not...whenever you get some free time I'd like to get some more details on it...

basically a tow/flog switch?

 

searched around for a bit...saw that you bought your air solenoid from a truck shop for around $30...

just wondering about the plumbing...the electrical shouldn't be an issue...

does the $90 PDR5718053 kit include everything? or just the solenoid?

Greg

 

I don't know what the PDR kit includes.

The solenoid I used is way too nice, but it was what they had in stock. Any air solenoid valve that is normally closed will do fine. If it does not have a vent port, just drill a very fine bleed hole in one of the fittings on the AFC side of the solenoid so you do not trap boost.

The plumbing on mine is standard heavy truck air line, the trade name is Parker line. It's the same stuff used for most water/meth systems. It's great stuff, you just push it into the fittings, if you need to remove it you push the collar on the fitting and pull on the line. Any heavy truck shop will have the line and fittings in stock. I used 1/4" line. To plumb it into the engine I just unscrewed the elbow that feeds the AFC line and put a parker fitting (1/8" NPT) on the port. I used a 1/8" NPT coupling to hook the stock AFC line to the line from the solenoid. Like so:

 

Tow/flog switch is a good way to put it...

You will have to turn the main fuel screw up a bunch to get good performance without the additional fuel the AFC allows. Basically just turn it up until it will hit 1200 degrees on a hard pull. This will cause a pretty good puff of smoke at low RPM/low boost conditions because that amount of fuel is available to you at all times. The 12 cm housing will clean that up pretty quick, though. The truck will be fairly strong (not as powerful as now, but better than stock), but it will transform into a hot smoky rocketship when you flip that switch.

 

guess I need to find a truck shop that stocks the stuff...

and if it's gonna be a "hot smoky rocketship"...I need to get my stacks installed!! cause I LOVE this video clip: http://youtube.com/watch?v=gU2Oeo1IOQo



to tune it for "tow" mode...I guess it doesn't matter where the star wheel is, right? or the smoke screw?

just start cranking the full power screw...

and the Old Smokey pin is not "used" during tow mode, since the diaphragm isn't moving the pin up and down anymore?


I would hope I could actually tune it "as is" to run OK with my single trailer, especially if I can get the pump loose to adjust timing, and the silicone elbow holds (so I can run up the RPMs/boost)...but the valet mode is definitely the way to go if I go with a double trailer...

Greg

 

Star wheel - no, smoke screw - yes. Remember that the smoke screw sets the preload on the AFC cone/Old Smoky pin.
You got it.
Yeah, I think more timing will help you out a lot. But if you want an "aggressive" setup on the truck for around-town fun, the valet switch is a nice option.

 

and the timing advance would be a good move for both tow and flog modes?

Greg

 

Yes. You'd want to be a little more conservative in "tow", stick to 1/8". If you are gonna be in "flog" mode for a while, shove it over to the head.

 

If I was going to change it around that much...I'd figure out how to weld a "handle" onto the hard-to-reach nut that gave me just enough room to loosen it...

Greg

 

wanna- would a low tech valet mode work? just a simple cut-off valve? am i missing something?

 

Yeah, you just wouldn't be able to control it from inside the cab unless you ran the lines in there.

 

BTW...I stopped by Grainger today and bought a 12V solenoid...

looking through their catalog, they had quite a few manual type valves...****, pull handle, lever, etc...

you could go one of two ways:

1. very low tech...and have the controls under the hood
2. slightly low tech...and just run longer air lines (I paid ~$.23/ft for air line) through the firewall, and have the valve mounted like a choke lever on the dash...

I have all the pieces I need except for a switch (I'll pick one up at home)...and I'll take pics and list all the part numbers when I'm done...

Greg

 

When/if I tow heavy, I just unscrew the AFC feed line from the head and re-install the factory 1/8'' NPT plug. Super low tech

 

that'd be fine, too...unless I wanted to play games at the drag strip... (or stoplight)...

your method...or the low tech manual lever under the hood...would actually be the best "valet"...to keep anybody else that might drive your truck from flipping the switch...

I think having the switch will just be fun...because the majority of people riding shotgun would have ZERO idea of how a diesel works...and I could make up a different story for each person as to what the switch controlled...

Greg

 

...ever rode in a diesel with a flux capacitor? Go ahead, flip the switch, see what happens