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Alternator not charging right

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Old 01-17-2008, 05:51 PM
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Alternator not charging right

Hello, I have changed the alt. 2X in the past 1 month. Now the latest is also not charging. Obviously, dad has a short somewhere. Anybody have any ideas of where to look? Any places that go bad more times than not? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance,
Old 01-17-2008, 05:54 PM
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Check the crank sensor and its wiring. Without that signal the PCM will not turn on the field circuit.
Old 01-17-2008, 06:04 PM
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Hey thanks! Where is that located at? How do you test/tell if its bad?
Old 01-17-2008, 06:37 PM
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Hello, after reading addicted's post on his 92's charging problems, I'm going to look at the PCM. However, I have no idea what or where it is, let alone how to test it. Also, where would the crank sensor be hiding at? Again thanks for helping the newbie help the grandpa,
Old 01-17-2008, 07:35 PM
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The crank senser is on the front of the engine above the balancer (follow the wire thats on the front side of the engine and follow it down), the PCM is in the front of the driveside fender behind the battery. Mine would not charge and it turned out to be a broken fuseable link on the driveside fender near where the wiring comes out of the firewall.
Old 01-17-2008, 11:07 PM
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Terraizer, thank you. I think I know where the ECM is and I'll look for the crank sensor tomorrow. I just hope if they're bad, he won't go broke fixing it. He plows almost 50 drives and parking lots with it. Luckily this latest snow turned into nothing again, so it gives us time for repairs.

Thanks again,
Old 01-18-2008, 04:03 PM
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Unless you are seeing all kinds of weirdness on cold starts, it's probably just the crank sensor.
Old 01-18-2008, 07:29 PM
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Well, I took the alt back off and ran it to the rebuilder, he tested it, works like a charm - 130 amps. Alt is NOT the problem. He suggested cleaning the grounds and testing the battery - possible bad cell. With my 10 yr old batt load tester, the battery went into the yellow range. So I'm gonna try putting one of my batteries in it after a charge. Any how, the guy said that I should have power to one of the two threaded studs with the key on. I'm gettin real quick at changing alts at least.

Thanks to all for helping me get this far,
Old 01-19-2008, 09:40 AM
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Originally Posted by sshewins
Well, I took the alt back off and ran it to the rebuilder, he tested it, works like a charm - 130 amps. Alt is NOT the problem. He suggested cleaning the grounds and testing the battery - possible bad cell. With my 10 yr old batt load tester, the battery went into the yellow range. So I'm gonna try putting one of my batteries in it after a charge. Any how, the guy said that I should have power to one of the two threaded studs with the key on. I'm gettin real quick at changing alts at least.

Thanks to all for helping me get this far,
If it still won't charge consider asking your rebuilder about installing an internal regulation kit (look in the sticky) Should mine ever fail to charge and diagnose as the ECM I know i'll do an internal regulator rather than spend that sort of jack on a computer that had no place playing regulator in the first place.
Old 01-20-2008, 01:54 PM
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OK, the battery is also NOT the problem. I bought a brand new battery at farm & fleet and after 10 minutes of idling, it (meter) was back down low again. Is there a way to test the crank sensor? Where are the #'s on the PCM? I think he just might go with both and I let him know about the internal regulator too. Stinkin 6* weather.
Old 01-23-2008, 09:52 PM
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Don't change the PCM, just change the crank sensor. If that doesn't fix it then look further.
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