Alternator not charging right
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Crystal Lake Il
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Alternator not charging right
Hello, I have changed the alt. 2X in the past 1 month. Now the latest is also not charging. Obviously, dad has a short somewhere. Anybody have any ideas of where to look? Any places that go bad more times than not? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance,
Thanks in advance,
#4
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Crystal Lake Il
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hello, after reading addicted's post on his 92's charging problems, I'm going to look at the PCM. However, I have no idea what or where it is, let alone how to test it. Also, where would the crank sensor be hiding at? Again thanks for helping the newbie help the grandpa,
#5
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Penrose Colorado
Posts: 137
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The crank senser is on the front of the engine above the balancer (follow the wire thats on the front side of the engine and follow it down), the PCM is in the front of the driveside fender behind the battery. Mine would not charge and it turned out to be a broken fuseable link on the driveside fender near where the wiring comes out of the firewall.
#6
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Crystal Lake Il
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Terraizer, thank you. I think I know where the ECM is and I'll look for the crank sensor tomorrow. I just hope if they're bad, he won't go broke fixing it. He plows almost 50 drives and parking lots with it. Luckily this latest snow turned into nothing again, so it gives us time for repairs.
Thanks again,
Thanks again,
Trending Topics
#8
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Crystal Lake Il
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well, I took the alt back off and ran it to the rebuilder, he tested it, works like a charm - 130 amps. Alt is NOT the problem. He suggested cleaning the grounds and testing the battery - possible bad cell. With my 10 yr old batt load tester, the battery went into the yellow range. So I'm gonna try putting one of my batteries in it after a charge. Any how, the guy said that I should have power to one of the two threaded studs with the key on. I'm gettin real quick at changing alts at least.
Thanks to all for helping me get this far,
Thanks to all for helping me get this far,
#9
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Centerburg OH
Posts: 83
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well, I took the alt back off and ran it to the rebuilder, he tested it, works like a charm - 130 amps. Alt is NOT the problem. He suggested cleaning the grounds and testing the battery - possible bad cell. With my 10 yr old batt load tester, the battery went into the yellow range. So I'm gonna try putting one of my batteries in it after a charge. Any how, the guy said that I should have power to one of the two threaded studs with the key on. I'm gettin real quick at changing alts at least.
Thanks to all for helping me get this far,
Thanks to all for helping me get this far,
#10
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Crystal Lake Il
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
OK, the battery is also NOT the problem. I bought a brand new battery at farm & fleet and after 10 minutes of idling, it (meter) was back down low again. Is there a way to test the crank sensor? Where are the #'s on the PCM? I think he just might go with both and I let him know about the internal regulator too. Stinkin 6* weather.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Diesel-Dan
12 Valve Engine and Drivetrain
20
09-22-2019 09:34 PM