I used cycling switch for 86 dodge ram, two wire connectors.
connect the outer two wires from the three wire plug for original switch
part number murray 35809

 

That is a good idea, notice though it has a fixed temperature, what is the coldest temps from your system so far.



I have an adjustable thermostat in mine and use it for a low temperature cutoff.

Where is the cap tube inserted on the factory 1986 Dodge Ram, in the well in the suction line if there even is one or in-between the fins in the evaporator,

where do you have yours?

They would work both places but the calibration would be off between the two.

You can also get these at your local HVAC supplier, there is an adjustable version used on refrigerated drinking fountains

Jim

 

It mounts in the same location as stock switch, and uses the same tube opening.
The set temp seems to me to be the same as the stock switch, when my stock switch worked the lowest temp I would notice at the vent was 50. When I installed this switch I was getting the same, but have slowly pulled the probe out of the tube until I got about 40 at vent.(100* + outside)
With the switch bypassed it was a little cooler, but now I do not have to deal with it freezing up.
An adjustable switch would be nice though.

 

Did you have to use any special "grease" if you will, for the probe that goes into the suction line? I picked up a cycling switch at the junk yard once and it had a white film on it. That switch worked perfectly and my temp at the vent would go down to 40 degrees. That switch ended up not working anymore and i found a new one on ebay. It does not work as efficient as the other one. I wonder if that grease had anything to do with making the switch more or less sensitive to temperature. If anyone could chime in on what that grease is called and what it does. Thanks everyone.

 

Go to any place that sell parts to build computers and get a tube of "thermal compound" a small tube should cost a few dollars.

Also could be called Thermal Paste.

It is used to help conduct the heat.

Example:
FRYS.com*|*MASSCOOL

Jim

 

Any suggestions on using a relay vs just splicing the two wires on my 93?

 

While doing some research today I came across this product. Was not able to find any negative comments about them. It is not reactive with moisture or oil used in the r12 refrigerant. It is a direct replacement for r12 or r134a while cools as good as r12. Uses 66% less refrigerant then r12 so less head pressure. Less drag on the engine and less work the compressor has to do. And the stuff is cheap.. I personally think it is probably pretty close to propane.

Kasey

 

71% propane, 29% isobutane. I've mixed some up and put it in several systems. You could hang meat in the cabin of any of them.

I have an old freezer that I use for a refrigerator when it comes time to hold a couple of venison at temp till they get cut up. It leaked off through a condenser leak as they do when they get old and neglected. Didn't discover it till I desperately needed it. Slapped on a service fitting, pulled it down with a vacuum pump, and put in the calculated amount of C12. Ran for the month needed, and ran well for the first week or so.

Another feature is that it doesn't leak as fast as freon.

Home mix, 1 8oz can of MTR IsoPro mountain stove fuel, and 12 0z of Coleman propane.

 

Decided to upload these to show which wires to cut and splice.




Hooked into the blue and orange wire on the ac relay




Hooked the other end into the blue and white wire on the ac switch.

 

I'd like to find some kind electronic 'Module" that I could wire into the clutch circuit.
One that has a built in programmable timer that I can adjust.
I'd set it to turn on for eight seconds or so and then open for 8 seconds or so.

 

Lots of good info in this thread. I have run into the same problem in my 93 W250. Erratic temperature cycling switch. Part #56005783 is no longer available, and I would rather not bypass the switch. I was wondering if Jim Lane or someone else might know if this switch would work. It "looks" just like mine except the connector, which I could splice on, and fits earlier Dodge cars... It is the only 3-wire unit I can find.

A C Clutch Cycle Switch Temperature Switch 4 Seasons 35836 | eBay

 

I do not see why it would not work, if you were to match the connections, is it really avaliable?

Jim

 

My compressor is on a toggle switch. I control it. Works pretty good. Mine has been that way 2 years now. That pic was took when it was 90 outside. Only gets about 40 degrees when the outside is over 100.

 

It is available, and still listed in 4 Seasons catalog. With only 3 wires, logically it has to work electrically. I'm just hoping the preset temperature setpoint is correct. I'm swamped until after the 4th, but I guess then I will be the guinea pig and report back here...

 

Compressor doesn't click or do anything. It's not locked up or seized. I too a test light to the plug straight to the compressor and other side of the plug and had power going to the clutch switch. Which means the AC compressor is bad?? We took a jumper wire from the positive battery port straight to the plug on the compressor and it didn't click or engage at all?? Is the compressor bad?