All,
After adjusting the tv cable, TPS, bands etc., I am not satisfied with the performance of my trans. I am still getting slipage (probably the torque converter on its last leg). So; before boating season is upon us (for me, not til April here in IL) I figure I better get down to brass tacks, and pull the trans Not a fun thought, since it's winter here, and I work on my truck outside. I will probably have to lay the torpedo propane heater close by, while I work under the rig Anyway; I looked at Dave Goerend's site, and for him to rebuild the A518 - I am looking at $3500! That's not going to happen with my $ income! Looks as if I am going have to do like David (BC847), and do the work myself. As much as I would like to upgrade to the 47RH (A618) with lock up, that's about another $800 (on the low side) for a used trans. Then; I still will have to throw a rebuild kit at it, plus second gen starter...! I am thinking of throwing as much goodies from here: http://www.transmissioncenter.net/dodge.htm at the A518 as I can afford. I have already taken some notes from David's post in the sticky - but if anyone else has any suggestion on parts from the above link, I would appreciate it - before I place my order. I also plan on ordering a new second gen flex plate, and sending my torque converter to Hughes.

 

ckck around for a price i payed 2300.00 and thats with a heavy duty TC

 

I would put in a shift kit in that dude before I pulled the trigger on a new one. It's super easy, and if youdon't mind fairly hard shifts, go with the "Street/Strip" setting, and be sure to remove (and throw away) the accumulator spring. Unless you have burnt fluid right now, that should buy you quite a bit of time.
Mopar Performance has one:

RWD OVERDRIVE SHIFT IMPROVER PACKAGE

Now you can enjoy firmer, quicker shifts with this RWD Overdrive Shift Improver Package. On the A-500 and A-518 lockup overdrive automatic transmissions used in RWD trucks, the part-throttle kickdown function is retained along with the full shift pattern.


P5249641 Shift Improver Package — Lockup and Non-Lockup (1990-95 A-518) $ 59.95

 

Mark,
I have the Trans-go TFOD-518 shift kit for the valve body. I haven't installed it yet, as I am concerned with the torque converter slippage. I figured I need to address the torque converter, so while I have the trans pulled for that, I might as well rebuild it.

 

That is the same kit I used (TFOD-518). It covers much more in the way of mods than that mhuppertz mentions.

Well worth it IMO if you're gonna pull the trans completely.

 

Do you have all the specialty tools to rebuild a tranny? Also you need access to an air compressor to check the band applies etc.

 

I'm interested in this too. My tranny is fine currently but it's the weakest link now...

Off topic but what hole in the water do you have?

 

The 44-47 re's and rh's are probably the simiplest trans to rebuild. you've got 4 clutch packs remove the converter and pump and 2 of them are right there foward cluch and rear clutch the foward clutch you need a small press or 2-3 guys a couple of guys to press down on the center spring and one to remove the snap ring. thats probably the hardest of the rebuild till the over drive. the od unit pulls off the back and you can replace 4th gear with out tearing anything down the 1:1 clutch you have to have a press to over come a 500lb spring and alingment tool enless you pull the whole trans apart then you can use the output shaft to keep the two gears inline. Usually the 1:1 clutch is good. I just rebuilt a 47re that the front clutch (3rd and reverse) was burnt up and 4th was burnt badly. but the 1:1 clutch looked decent (went ahead and replaced them) other than those 4 clutch packs the rest is planitary gears and drums and a one way roller clutch. You need a seal installer looks like a feeler gauge. the most expensive part of rebuilding theses is the Convertor and Valvebody if you choose to replace the valve body. The rebuilding it self is very easy. rebuild kit\seal kit will run you roughly 150-200 bucks. I love rebuilding chrysler trans because they are so easy.

 

Thanks all for the replies! I have been away from the computer, so I finally just got a chance to sit down. Dodgefreak, I have a 10 ton hydraulic shop press - Do I still need the "special tool" to compress the clutches on the Annulus Gear? The same one that David used in his great A518 rebuild writeup, in the sticky? The "special" trans tools will need to be purchased, as I do not have any. I do have some .000" dial indicator guages etc., to check tolerances. I have set up back lash settings on ring and pinions, as well as built a few small blocks in my past. So; I think I should be able to tackle the A518 The main thing holding me back; is working outside under the rig, in low 20 degree snowy weather If I could locate a "decent" trans or 4x4 shop, in the SE WI area (or around Chicago) - I would bring the truck by, along with all the (supplied by me) rebuild parts - and pay to have the trans rebuilt and installed. If I could get someone for a grand, I think I would go this route. Just due to the fact that winter wrenching doesn't appeal to me I know good trans shops are pretty hard to find!

 

Oh; Dodgefreak and all -
I forgot to ask, if an A518 is parked long enough (say 6 months, as my truck was over the Spring/Summer 07), is it possible for the torque converter to drain back into the trans? The reason I ask, is because when I went to drive my rig for the fist time - the truck didn't want to shift past second. I got back home and checked the trans stick, and the reading was high! Prior to the 6 month parking, the trans dip stick reading was spot on. Anyway; I also had some atf dripping on my exhaust, by the passenger side front tire. Most likely atf dripping out of the dip stick? I have heard that some Ford auto's will drain from the torque converter, back into the trans - if parked for long periods (C4 or C6)?

 

Hey, Yeah the converter can drain back if the check ball isn't working properly. Usually though if the converter drains back it won't move at all till it refills. Also you can make the "special" tool to compress the clutchs you just need something to fit inside of the hub (shown in his picture) with two arms that come up and across to press on. (i'll try to get a picture of what we used) Also theres another special tool to check clearence between the od clutchs and the piston to make sure they are with inspects we used some puddy weld rolled it set the od case on and then torqued to bolts measered the thickness and we actually removed a clutch and a pressure plate in the 1:1 clutch because if not then it would of started to dissengage the 1:1 before Od started to engage then there would of been some slipage of the the clutchs. so we got the clearence down to where when od engages its almost instant it was .063" If i remember correctly. nothing to speical about theses trans straight forward for the most part just make sure you don't loose your one way roller clutchs.

 

I thought the lockup needed a computer to work it?

 

Dodgefreak; thanks again for your input! Looks as if I have a malfunctioning check ball Great info on the trans tools as well. I could probably improvise some of them, with odds and ends in the garage. Now I have to figure out when I will take the plunge, and get the courage to climb under the truck (snow, cold temps and all), and 'get busy' I am guessing when I test drove the truck - it wouldn't shift out of 2nd, due to the torque converter dieing, as well as a mis-adjusted tv cable, causing improper line pressure?

Also, TXS - thanks for the info on converting the A518 to lockup! I didn't know that